Removable panels for tank stand - The Planted Tank Forum
 11Likes
  • 4 Post By sir.tie
  • 2 Post By PlantedRich
  • 2 Post By FishRFriendz
  • 2 Post By GraphicGr8s
  • 4 Post By PlantedRich
  • 2 Post By jeffkrol
  • 2 Post By Greggz
  • 2 Post By geektom
  • 2 Post By monkeyruler90
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-27-2017, 08:37 PM Thread Starter
Planted Member
 
geektom's Avatar
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Riverside, CA
Posts: 284
Removable panels for tank stand

Hey all- does anyone here have experience with, or can point me to, building removable panels for their stand?

I have a large tank project planned for next year, but one of the conditions from the better half is that it look "furniture quality". I want to make sure I always have easy access underneath, which will be filled with a large sump, and I am guessing the CO2 set up will take up a lot of real estate, too.

Currently my plan is to skin it with quality plywood, but open to any and all suggestions on materials and how to attach them to the frame.

Thanks!

Just an old dog trying to learn some new tricks...
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
geektom is online now  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-27-2017, 09:22 PM
Planted Tank Enthusiast
 
FishRFriendz's Avatar
 
PTrader: (10/100%)
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Central US
Posts: 621
I find having a router and routing the edges gives it more “furniture quality”.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Don't ask for advice. Ask for information, gather lots of information from different reliable sources. Then use the information to make your own advice.
FishRFriendz is offline  
post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-28-2017, 09:40 PM
Banned
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 26
You might want to look into using magnets to hold panels, I've seen it done but not sure on the details.

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
sir.tie is offline  
 
post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-28-2017, 09:53 PM
Planted Tank Guru
 
PlantedRich's Avatar
 
PTrader: (2/100%)
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: United States
Posts: 12,111
Depends on the look you want for the finished product but one easy way to go is just cut out the panel and then add trim around it. the trim holds it from falling all the way in and then magnets are easy to fix so hold it closed. For removing filters and CO2 tanks, I don't want any more lip at the bottom than absolutely necessary so I run the panel all the way to the floor and make a channel there for the panel to slide into. The bottom raw edge of the panel is hidden behind trim boards which enclose the stand and make it appear much a part of the room.
If you are using solid framing inside and don't want it to appear as an opening, the whole front panel can be left loose, corner moldings cover the corners and then the whole front with corners included can be pulled off. Some care in fitting and most will never notice the corner trim is only fastened to the front, not the sides.
geektom and geektom like this.
PlantedRich is offline  
post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-28-2017, 09:59 PM
Planted Tank Enthusiast
 
FishRFriendz's Avatar
 
PTrader: (10/100%)
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Central US
Posts: 621
Quote:
Originally Posted by sir.tie View Post
You might want to look into using magnets to hold panels, I've seen it done but not sure on the details.

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk


That’s an interesting idea. At least for one of my small stands this is totally possible. I’ve seen neodymium magnet pairs that are supposed to hold various amount of weight.
geektom and geektom like this.

Don't ask for advice. Ask for information, gather lots of information from different reliable sources. Then use the information to make your own advice.
FishRFriendz is offline  
post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-29-2017, 03:04 AM
Planted Tank Guru
 
GraphicGr8s's Avatar
 
PTrader: (10/100%)
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: West coast of the east coast of the USA.
Posts: 4,328
Furniture quality. Such a broad term. What size tank? What piece of furniture do you want to mimic? What time period? What type of wood?

A couple of ideas come to mind.
First is to skin a metal stand with 1/2" hardwood plywood with solid wood trim.

Second would be to get kitchen cabinets and trim those out to look like furniture. Just get plywood cabinets. There is a thread here of a guy that did just that.

Do you want the raised panel effect? If so remember the grain direction. And that the stiles go all the way with the rails in between the stiles.

Want the front to have false drawers where they are removable?

You could even do real doors on hinges.

Trims. The trim you choose and make built up moldings will/can determine the time period. Queen Anne? Victorian?

Finishing. Now this can really screw up a well built, well thought out design.
Pine? Cherry? The heartwood on cherry takes stain different than the rest of it. Pine is subject to blotching. There are ways to control it though. Mahogany and oak need filler to get a super smooth finish.

Poly. Most want a satin/matte finish. 3 coats minimum. Secret here is to put the first two coats on with gloss. Sand/level the second coat. Don't touch the first. Steel wool on the third or final coat if you do more than 3. The last coat gets the sheen you want whether satin or matte. Doing it that way gives a nice clear finish.
geektom and geektom like this.

Dilution is the solution for the pollution.
Quote me as saying I was misquoted.
Once you get rid of integrity the rest is a piece of cake.
Here's to our wives and sweethearts - may they never meet.
If you agreed with me we'd both be right.
GraphicGr8s is offline  
post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-29-2017, 03:25 AM
Planted Tank Guru
 
PlantedRich's Avatar
 
PTrader: (2/100%)
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: United States
Posts: 12,111
A point on the magnets is that they are pretty easy to do and they really have little need of strong magnets if the panels are supported at the bottom. They only need to be strong enough to keep the upright panel top from popping out as the weight will all be resting on the base.
This is the type which I have now.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Sugatsune-W...abinet/4713065
It is a panel about three feet square resting on the bottom and one set of magnets at each side near the top. Mounted the magnet on the panel frame and the flat metal on the panel itself. With the slotted mounting holes, it is somewhat easy to move the magnets in/out to get the correct position and they do hold well.
PlantedRich is offline  
post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-30-2017, 06:04 AM Thread Starter
Planted Member
 
geektom's Avatar
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Riverside, CA
Posts: 284
Hey all, thanks for your responses. The tank is 150 gallons: 60“ x 18“ high and 30” deep. So my main concern is large doors in the front and removable panels on the 30” sides. That way I should have plenty of access to all parts of the sump and whatever other equipment is below. The current stand is very sturdy 2 x 4‘s and 4 x 4‘s so that part is solid. The tank is pre-drilled and attached to the stand frame.

Just an old dog trying to learn some new tricks...
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
geektom is online now  
post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-30-2017, 01:49 PM
Planted Tank Guru
 
PlantedRich's Avatar
 
PTrader: (2/100%)
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: United States
Posts: 12,111
That sounds like a good frame to start on making it look totally different. Are you saying it is currently an open stand and you are wanting to enclose it and bring it up to "furniture"?
Good grade plywood, finished to whatever color and type you like but not actually fastened solid to the frame? Depending which you feel will be removed first, front or sides, put trim on the panels that comes off with the panel but is a 90 at the corners to cover the raw edges. Put pins in the back to align it on the frame and magnets to do the small amount of holding needed. I use screws for ease of placing and then cut the heads off with a mini-tool. Place the pin in the panel, press it against the frame to make a mark and then drill a matching hole in the frame.
Important to keep it all running true straight in but not a mind bender? Since the magnet mounting is not critical for placement and they have slotted mounting, those can be added once the panel is in place on the pins.
Random thoughts on design and sure to need modding to meet what you feel is needed?
PlantedRich is offline  
post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-24-2018, 09:54 PM Thread Starter
Planted Member
 
geektom's Avatar
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Riverside, CA
Posts: 284
Hey everyone- reviving this thread before I start on building my new stand.

The 150 ended up being too large for my living room (30” depth was awesome, but really intruded into the room)

New tank will be 72” x 24”, and I want the total height of the stand (not counting the lip covering the bottom bracing) to be 27” high.

If anyone has pictures of how they did removable panels, I would appreciate it!

Just an old dog trying to learn some new tricks...
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
geektom is online now  
post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-24-2018, 10:13 PM
Banned
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: WI
Posts: 11,794
Quote:
Originally Posted by geektom View Post
Hey everyone- reviving this thread before I start on building my new stand.

The 150 ended up being too large for my living room (30” depth was awesome, but really intruded into the room)

New tank will be 72” x 24”, and I want the total height of the stand (not counting the lip covering the bottom bracing) to be 27” high.

If anyone has pictures of how they did removable panels, I would appreciate it!

Actually though it would be easy to show you.. but here is one method:
Get unfinished doors from big box store
add these.
https://www.alema.com/jc-t50-plastic-catch.html

Will probably need a bottom stop so door doesn't slip down.


https://www.alema.com/jc-t50-plastic-catch.html
geektom and geektom like this.

Suspended for 30 days for being awful to other forum members
jeffkrol is offline  
post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-24-2018, 11:53 PM
Planted Tank Guru
 
Greggz's Avatar
 
PTrader: (2/100%)
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Novi, MI
Posts: 5,026
Quote:
Originally Posted by geektom View Post
Currently my plan is to skin it with quality plywood, but open to any and all suggestions on materials and how to attach them to the frame.

Thanks!
Depends on what you mean by furniture quality.

I made mine entirely out of dimensional solid oak lumber. No plywood or 2 x 4's. There is no frame to skin. The dimensional lumber is the frame.

To me, stained plywood always looks like stained plywood, and going with solid wood is worth the extra effort. It's not for everyone, but it is another option.

I have a video of my build on the very first page of my journal if you are interested in seeing how it was constructed.

Good luck, and looking forward to seeing what you come up with.
geektom and geektom like this.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
---
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
---
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Greggz is offline  
post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-25-2018, 05:14 PM
Planted Tank Guru
 
PlantedRich's Avatar
 
PTrader: (2/100%)
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: United States
Posts: 12,111
I took a few pictures of my DIY stand door panel as it seemed to work very much like I wanted. The stand is getting somewhat old and beat up but I am prepping for a move and likely will be selling the stand. So if you notice some loose equipment or "experience" on the door, that's due to the situation, not the way it was originally.

Some info on how/why I built it this way. I wanted a "built-in" look but without actually cutting studs or permanent work on the walls. I wanted it to somewhat match existing trim and wall colors. I wanted simple and somewhat quick but also good enough for public view next to a table where we have lots of meetings and visitors. Primary point was how easy to build and work as well as being able to move it later.
The support stand is basic 2X4 for cheap, sturdy, and durable, with a relatively cheap, simple skin with butted corners to allow for quick easy cuts and trim to match existing over the ragged panels ends. The whole builtin look had to be designed with taking it apart in mind. So it came down to building the stand, build the box frame around the tank and then a canopy on top. When moving comes, and it always does, I can take the canopy off, pull the front frame, move the tank off the stand and then move the stand. All in pieces which are easy to manage.
I like simple easy to build tools and painted matched what I wanted for this item but the idea is adaptable to the finish that we each might like. Reasonably cheap and easy to build with only moderate tools and skills needed.
For the panel, I wanted to have one large panel which comes off to set back out of the way as I find twenty pound CO2 tanks are pretty awkward. I also do not want much lip at the bottom to work over.
So pictures are:
1. Overall view.
2. Panel corner showing the panel is a piece of the basic skin cut out and trimmed with standard molding.
3. Bottom track showing the xtra board behind the bottom trim so that a slot is formed for the panel to drop down into.
4. Top area where I have the magnets for holding the door from tilting forward to come out. The added board inside at the top is to act as a door stop to keep extra pressure from knocking the panel trim loose. I also found this to be a very handy space where I could mount the needle valve inline and where I could both see the reg and easily reach the adjustment. Fabco NV-55 needle valve.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	stand overall.jpg
Views:	37
Size:	67.9 KB
ID:	856994  

Click image for larger version

Name:	corner detail.jpg
Views:	39
Size:	25.7 KB
ID:	857002  

Click image for larger version

Name:	bottom corner detail.jpg
Views:	39
Size:	65.0 KB
ID:	857010  

Click image for larger version

Name:	closure detail.jpg
Views:	39
Size:	29.1 KB
ID:	857018  

PlantedRich is offline  
post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-25-2018, 05:39 PM Thread Starter
Planted Member
 
geektom's Avatar
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Riverside, CA
Posts: 284
Quote:
Originally Posted by PlantedRich View Post
I took a few pictures of my DIY stand door panel as it seemed to work very much like I wanted. The stand is getting somewhat old and beat up but I am prepping for a move and likely will be selling the stand. So if you notice some loose equipment or "experience" on the door, that's due to the situation, not the way it was originally.



Some info on how/why I built it this way. I wanted a "built-in" look but without actually cutting studs or permanent work on the walls. I wanted it to somewhat match existing trim and wall colors. I wanted simple and somewhat quick but also good enough for public view next to a table where we have lots of meetings and visitors. Primary point was how easy to build and work as well as being able to move it later.

The support stand is basic 2X4 for cheap, sturdy, and durable, with a relatively cheap, simple skin with butted corners to allow for quick easy cuts and trim to match existing over the ragged panels ends. The whole builtin look had to be designed with taking it apart in mind. So it came down to building the stand, build the box frame around the tank and then a canopy on top. When moving comes, and it always does, I can take the canopy off, pull the front frame, move the tank off the stand and then move the stand. All in pieces which are easy to manage.

I like simple easy to build tools and painted matched what I wanted for this item but the idea is adaptable to the finish that we each might like. Reasonably cheap and easy to build with only moderate tools and skills needed.

For the panel, I wanted to have one large panel which comes off to set back out of the way as I find twenty pound CO2 tanks are pretty awkward. I also do not want much lip at the bottom to work over.

So pictures are:

1. Overall view.

2. Panel corner showing the panel is a piece of the basic skin cut out and trimmed with standard molding.

3. Bottom track showing the xtra board behind the bottom trim so that a slot is formed for the panel to drop down into.

4. Top area where I have the magnets for holding the door from tilting forward to come out. The added board inside at the top is to act as a door stop to keep extra pressure from knocking the panel trim loose. I also found this to be a very handy space where I could mount the needle valve inline and where I could both see the reg and easily reach the adjustment. Fabco NV-55 needle valve.


This is very helpful, thanks for taking the time to share it!
PlantedRich and PlantedRich like this.

Just an old dog trying to learn some new tricks...
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
geektom is online now  
post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-04-2018, 03:57 AM
Wannabe Guru
 
monkeyruler90's Avatar
 
PTrader: (70/100%)
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: San Diego, Ca
Posts: 1,712
Send a message via AIM to monkeyruler90
yes, it looks great!
I did the same thing, I have a removable panel that is held in place with magnets, it works great since it gives me full access to the tank and I'm not bothered by hinges or open doors, I think it makes the tank look professional and it gives easy access
geektom and geektom like this.

--Oscar.
Fluval pimp #4 aka PIMP master!
I SAID ITS GREAT
TO BE

A FLORIDA GATOR!!


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
monkeyruler90 is offline  
Reply

Tags
None

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the The Planted Tank Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome