4 mm plastic bulkhead? - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #1 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-29-2017, 05:15 AM Thread Starter
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4 mm plastic bulkhead?

Hi. I'm planning on running co2 directly into my canister filter, using a bazooka diffuser. I'n order to do that, I would like to drill a hole in my canister and mount a 4 mm bulkhead in it. The fittings should preferably be screw-cap based, rather than barbed, as the bazooka diffuser requires some pressure to run. I would not want the co2 hose to pop of, and the filter to drain into my cabinet. I've been scouring the internet for a bulkhead fitting this description, unable to find one. Have any of you bumped into a fitting of this type?

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post #2 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-29-2017, 08:15 AM
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A John Guest compression bulkhead should take care of the connection. A standard 4mm ID, 6mm OD hose can be fed all the way through so there is only water pressure to worry about.

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post #3 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-29-2017, 08:55 AM Thread Starter
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Would that be sufficiently tight for pressurised gas?

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post #4 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-29-2017, 01:01 PM
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The CO2 line would not be cut, it simply passes through the bulkhead so no gas can be lost. The rubber insert compresses when the bulkhead is tightened. I use one to put CO2 into my Cerges reactor input side.

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post #5 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-29-2017, 06:31 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks a lot Brian. You've been very helpful

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post #6 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-29-2017, 11:14 PM
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Only other concern would be buildup inside your canister which could hurt the motor. Lower injection rates are probably just fine, but if you add too much, you could end up with issues.

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post #7 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-30-2017, 03:08 AM
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Thanks a lot Brian. You've been very helpful

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Rather than drilling your canister I would suggest using a tee in the hose on the input side. That is how I have set up my CO2 reactor.

The John Guest bulkheads are actually more like a cable gland than a normal bulkhead. They don't come with a gasket or o-ring for where the bulkhead mounts. Mine seals okay regardless.

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post #8 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-30-2017, 10:57 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by brian.brigg View Post
Rather than drilling your canister I would suggest using a tee in the hose on the input side. That is how I have set up my CO2 reactor.

The John Guest bulkheads are actually more like a cable gland than a normal bulkhead. They don't come with a gasket or o-ring for where the bulkhead mounts. Mine seals okay regardless.

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That could also be an option. I've also thought about that, but have been unable to figure out a solution, that feels safe. I'm using a fluval filter with a ribbed hose, which to me complicates matters. What exactly do you mean by using a tee?

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Only other concern would be buildup inside your canister which could hurt the motor. Lower injection rates are probably just fine, but if you add too much, you could end up with issues.

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True. The aquarium is rater small (60 liters), so the required amount of co2 should not be a problem...


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Last edited by Darkblade48; 07-31-2017 at 11:16 AM. Reason: Please use the edit function for back to back posts to keep threads cleaner
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post #9 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-30-2017, 01:01 PM
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That could also be an option. I've also thought about that, but have been unable to figure out a solution, that feels safe. I'm using a fluval filter with a ribbed hose, which to me complicates matters. What exactly do you mean by using a tee?
The ribbed hose will make it more difficult. I have found that the gradual change in flow rate from canisters can have enough effect on CO2 absorption and distribution to cause problems if you don't regularly clean the canister.

I'm using a sump now where the constant flow rate from the return pump is better in that regard.

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post #10 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-31-2017, 04:47 AM Thread Starter
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The ribbed hose will make it more difficult. I have found that the gradual change in flow rate from canisters can have enough effect on CO2 absorption and distribution to cause problems if you don't regularly clean the canister.

I'm using a sump now where the constant flow rate from the return pump is better in that regard.

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Ok. I don't have the option of a sump. The aquarium that I'm running is very lightly stocked, so the filter should be able to run for long durations without clogging up. I'm going to try my luck with putting a bulkhead in the filter and add some silicone or cyanoacrylate for ensuring and strengthening the seal.

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post #11 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-01-2017, 09:24 PM
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I would look for something like this to enter the wall of your canister filter.

1/4" Nom. Tube OD x 1/4" Male NPTF Black Polypropylene Male Elbow | U.S. Plastic Corp.

inside the filter I would add a one way valve then your stone or what ever diffuser you are going to use.
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post #12 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-01-2017, 09:42 PM
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I would recommend against drilling a hole in the canister. Reason being that it is under slight pressure, and if the seal isn't perfect it is going to leak. Not to mention possible co2 pockets burning out the impeller. Use an inline diffuser, you arent going to see much improvement in terms of the bubbles in your tank unless you use a legitimate reactor.

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post #13 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-02-2017, 05:15 AM Thread Starter
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I would look for something like this to enter the wall of your canister filter.

1/4" Nom. Tube OD x 1/4" Male NPTF Black Polypropylene Male Elbow | U.S. Plastic Corp.

inside the filter I would add a one way valve then your stone or what ever diffuser you are going to use.
I've ended up buying a John Guest bulkhead, which I will install in the pump wall. I'm waiting for it to arrive :-)

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post #14 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-02-2017, 05:32 AM Thread Starter
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I would recommend against drilling a hole in the canister. Reason being that it is under slight pressure, and if the seal isn't perfect it is going to leak. Not to mention possible co2 pockets burning out the impeller. Use an inline diffuser, you arent going to see much improvement in terms of the bubbles in your tank unless you use a legitimate reactor.
Hi. Thanks for your recommendation :-) It seems unlikely to me, that the impeller would be damaged by the sightly raised ph in the canister, as the water is replaced continuously through circulation. I guess time will tell. With regard to the raised pressure, I'm pretty confident, that silicone will ensure a sufficient seal.

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post #15 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-02-2017, 05:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nicklassandager View Post
Hi. Thanks for your recommendation :-) It seems unlikely to me, that the impeller would be damaged by the sightly raised ph in the canister, as the water is replaced continuously through circulation. I guess time will tell. With regard to the raised pressure, I'm pretty confident, that silicone will ensure a sufficient seal.

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It's not the pH that will damage the impeller - it's the fact that if the CO2 builds up at all, you are going to burn out the motor.

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