Building a sump - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #1 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-05-2010, 04:48 AM Thread Starter
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Building a sump

Thought I might build a sump for my new 75g (See signature). I would be using a 20g tall tank with bio-balls and stuff....

I am a newb with filters and plan on doing some research tomorrow on this...in the mean-time:

What will I need?
Pump?
Overflow?
Will I need to drill holes into my tank? I don't really want to do that....
Is this tank to small?
Is it worth it or should I just go for a canister?


I want a sump to say I do have one, and because they are more effective and provide more water volume.


Thanks!


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post #2 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-05-2010, 05:07 AM
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theres 2 ways to do this

you can drill the tank and do it that way
or you can not drill the tank and use an overflow box

i personally would drill the tank or not use a sump all together and stick with a canister.

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post #3 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-05-2010, 06:03 AM
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Ive heard bad news about HOB over flow boxes and power outages.

Get the tank drilled or forget about it IMO.


As far as tank size, the 20g tall would be perfect for a sump for the 75g.
Is it alot of work? It is to get it all up and running.

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post #4 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-05-2010, 06:05 AM
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Why are you wanting a sump? Less equipment in the tank, co2 reactor, just something fun and new to try?


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post #5 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-05-2010, 06:38 AM
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Eh I don't understand sumps....

+1 to TeamTeal, the sump will be too much hassle and expense which you could use to buy one (maybe two) canister filters. Along with Bsmith, just use those inline heaters and diffuser and whatever with the canister filter if you really want to hide equipments.

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post #6 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-05-2010, 11:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PinoyBoy View Post

You can use pvc pipes with pumps on each end to act as the intake and return if you don't want to drill holes on the main tank. The problem with two pumps is that they pretty much have to be in near-perfect synchronization so no overflowing happens. Also, worse comes to worst is that what if one of the pumps fail? That's about (guesstimating) 20 gallons of water on your carpet..
No you can't do that, you will never, ever, ever get them synchronized. I'm willing to bet you cant find one example of some one who has succesfully done that. they would have to be perfectly sunchronized and the second one leaf got stuck agains the pickup it would alter the flow rate and flooding would happen. this isnt even worth attempting. Sorry Pinoy, I would have to assume you have never actually tried this and just thought it was a neat idea.

OP there are HOB overflow boxes, that work just fine if you dont want to drill your tank. I have used them for years in reef tanks, some are better than others. most are a nuiscance to start, unless you add an aqualifter pump to the top of the siphon tube. the aqualift pump also prevents siphon loss if your flow rate is low enough to allow bubble trapping. ofb's are now designed so you dont lose siphon in the case of poweroutages. in any case its super easy to modify and ofb to a non-siphon loss setup. I did this with a couple of mine that were older than dirt. I dont even think you can buy an ofb anymore that doest hold siphon in no flow.

for a sump you would need:
Sump container (be it fishtank or rubbermaid tub anythign that holds water and fits where you want to put it will work), some are 4easier to set up as a filtration and others are just cheap containers for extra water volume. there are a milluion different sump designs, the best way to start out if you plan on building your own sump is to look at what other people have done and figure out what types of filtration you want in your sump.
either- HOB OFB box - or drilled holes bulkheads plumbing.
A return pump, if your using HOB style you need to make sure the pump doesnt exceed the capacity of the HOB box at the head height.
a section of tubing or pvc plumbing (or similar) to run the water from your pump to your DT

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post #7 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-05-2010, 03:10 PM Thread Starter
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From what I am hearing, I will not go with the sump because it seems like to much hassle. Maybe once I get a acrylic tank and can drill it easier I will do it. Thanks everybody for your wonderful help!


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post #8 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-05-2010, 04:04 PM
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Oh thank god we changed his mind.

lol

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post #9 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-05-2010, 04:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Caton View Post
and because they are more effective and provide more water volume.
Ok, don't know what I am talking about because I never had a sump... but what if the sump was behind the tank with the water surface at the same level as the tank? One pump pushes it back into the tank, gravity pulls it out. More water volume and everything hides in the sump.

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post #10 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-05-2010, 04:56 PM Thread Starter
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Oh thank god we changed his mind.

lol
Lol, it just seems like to much work, thanks again for all your imput.


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post #11 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-05-2010, 05:32 PM
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I'm glad you didn't decide to make one. Not that their bad but they are kind of a hassle and not as beneficial in a planted tank as they are in a SW tank.


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post #12 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-05-2010, 05:46 PM
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Originally Posted by ridewake210 View Post
Ive heard bad news about HOB over flow boxes and power outages.
It's just a matter of getting them set right. I ran a HOB over flow for several years without any issue. If you have it properly setup the siphon never breaks and when the power cuts on it starts up right where it left off.
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post #13 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-05-2010, 05:48 PM
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My 125 is actually drilled ( I drilled it I have the bits and bulkheads) and I am not using the overflows simply because it makes it harder to maintain co2. I would have to replumb it a bit to reduce splashing and turbulence. I originally designed my overflows for maximum turbulence and air contact for highly oxygenating my reef tank. complete with extra turns and venting along the drains for air exchange. it worked spectacular for my reef, but is obviously not right for my planted setup.

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post #14 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-05-2010, 06:10 PM
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I have a sump on my 125 made from a 20 long. I am glad your tank is drilled. I am using an overflow box. There is no problem with power failures or anything but still my next tank will be drilled. I use a deep sand bed in my sump. That and some floss for particulates is really all you need. Heck of a lot more surface area than plastic bio balls.


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post #15 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-05-2010, 06:53 PM
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Quote:
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I'm glad you didn't decide to make one. Not that their bad but they are kind of a hassle and not as beneficial in a planted tank as they are in a SW tank.
While my DIY sump modification took longer than opening a box and assembling the Eheim I enjoyed the project. It's WAY more convenient when it comes to cleaning too.

I can change my three fine floss panels in about 2 minutes, set the glass lid back on the sump and I'm done. I actually change them about twice a month because I can see them and it's easy, no fuss no muss. I have three tanks filtered by canisters and clean them based on reduced output because they're crapped up, so what's better for my tanks? Start to finish I'm guessing 20 minutes to clean my Pro3e or ProII as opposed to 2-3 minutes messing with the sump. When I add GH booster or anything else into the tank I don't have to mix it, just dump it in the second chamber of the sump and water flow does the mixing. Ph probe, heater, chemicals,, in the sump. No concern about fish swimming into concentrate either.

CO2 loss is next to nothing with tuned drains (no splash/bubbling) and glass lids. Refilling a 20# cylinder after 13 months rather than 17 months (16m21d) on the rig feeding the two 75g tanks isn't enough to even talk about.(imo)

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