Is this worth fixing up? - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-04-2017, 01:20 PM Thread Starter
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Is this worth fixing up?

I recently acquired a very used and abused aquarium (with stand). for free - so even if its garbage, i'm not out any money.

the glass is 1/2" thick, dimensions are 60" x 17" x 24" tall - so i think this comes out around 100 gallons or so.

The tank seam leaked at the bottom, and the owner decided he was done with it. One of the end panels was cracked and repaired (still not usable) - and the front and rear long panels are scratched up pretty bad. There is no bracing on this tank and i wondered if thats why the bottom seal leaked.. is 1/2" glass too thin for this to be braceless?



So i was thinking of using it as a project tank.. fixing it up over time, and possibly using it at some point. I would rip down the entire tank, clean it up and polish out the glass scratches and then re-silicone everything.. replacing the end panel with 1/2" again might be pricey, could i go with thinner glass on the end??


I've never done any of this before - so i figured, since it was free, this would be a good tank to experiment on and get some practice. Gotta start somewhere, and i don't have any smaller garbage tanks sitting around!

is this a bad idea?
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-04-2017, 02:34 PM
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I think its a great idea! I wouldn't replace the end with thinner glass though. You could silicone a thinner piece over the crack on the inside of the tank, then just paint the back and sides and it will barely be noticeable. There's many YouTube videos on tank repair and I can vouch that it works. I bought a whole fishroom of older custom tanks and am pretty sure most are 1/2 inch glass. Some were cracked and some were drilled in places I didnt want holes. Some glass pieces from lowes and a few tubes of silicone and they work great!
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-04-2017, 02:41 PM
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I used that paint on leak stuff in Black for my back of the tank to.. what is it.."flex seal" figured it was black and water proof.. Worked fine and stuck to glass good.. Probably could use that on the sides to work the glass sealed inside as stated above and would fill in the cracks on the cracked glass maybe?

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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-04-2017, 02:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HappyGrimgore View Post
I recently acquired a very used and abused aquarium (with stand). for free - so even if its garbage, i'm not out any money.

the glass is 1/2" thick, dimensions are 60" x 17" x 24" tall - so i think this comes out around 100 gallons or so.

The tank seam leaked at the bottom, and the owner decided he was done with it. One of the end panels was cracked and repaired (still not usable) - and the front and rear long panels are scratched up pretty bad. There is no bracing on this tank and i wondered if thats why the bottom seal leaked.. is 1/2" glass too thin for this to be braceless?



So i was thinking of using it as a project tank.. fixing it up over time, and possibly using it at some point. I would rip down the entire tank, clean it up and polish out the glass scratches and then re-silicone everything.. replacing the end panel with 1/2" again might be pricey, could i go with thinner glass on the end??


I've never done any of this before - so i figured, since it was free, this would be a good tank to experiment on and get some practice. Gotta start somewhere, and i don't have any smaller garbage tanks sitting around!

is this a bad idea?
I can't comment on the polishing out scratches but if the cost of silicone and amount of elbow grease to get this done is not what you consider to much then I say go for it. You will want a partner when building the tank and get everything laid out and both know what you are going to do. Use GE1200 construction silicone and try to keep the working time about 5 min for the entire tank assembly to prevent skinning of the silicone. Alternatively the injection method may be easier but personally I have never used that method. Its not very difficult and I find the most difficult part of building a tank is cutting the glass perfectly, you already have that beat. I would say that you probably won't need to add a brace but after you build it measure across the middle of the tank empty at the top (17") then test the aquarium deflection outside or in the garage by filling and taking the same measurement. In this case it should be no more than 1/2" longer or I would suggest adding bracing. If you do add bracing it should be 1/2" glass. Hope this bit of info helps.

I say go for it.

Dan
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-04-2017, 03:53 PM Thread Starter
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Quote from a local glass shop is $117 Canadian for the piece of glass ( so around $80 USD ).. more than I wanted to spend to be honest, at least on the glass.

I'm not sure that a piece of glass over the cracked one would work as it's a huge crack across the entire pane of glass from top right, to bottom left. when disassembled, I'm sure that this pane would just fall apart.

Another option is to do a plywood tank I suppose, but I would likely spend over 100 to get this done as well..
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-04-2017, 04:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HappyGrimgore View Post
Quote from a local glass shop is $117 Canadian for the piece of glass ( so around $80 USD ).. more than I wanted to spend to be honest, at least on the glass.

I'm not sure that a piece of glass over the cracked one would work as it's a huge crack across the entire pane of glass from top right, to bottom left. when disassembled, I'm sure that this pane would just fall apart.

Another option is to do a plywood tank I suppose, but I would likely spend over 100 to get this done as well..
Well a lot more than $100 for a plywood tank. The other option is break it down and cut the glass to make a smaller tank. You could cut 16" off the front back and bottom pane (because the tank is 17" wide and side glass goes on the inside of the front and back panes the glass is 1/2 x2 =16") and build a custom tank 75g 44 x 17 x 24 or even almost 65g 36 x 17x 24. Would give you some experience cutting glass to and would cost no more.

Dan
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-04-2017, 05:01 PM Thread Starter
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well I've actually just gotten a quote back for 1/2" glass of the proper size for half the price... I dont understand how one company can charge 50% more than another.. oh well.

At $50 I can replace the side no problem. I'll likely try to buff out the glass first to see if the scuffing and scratches go away. if not, then its not worth replacing the glass ( since i wouldn't be able to not notice the scratching)

heres a couple of pics... the shoddy repair is done with Acrylic on the inside - wooden "frame" on the bottom was home made. Should be interesting taking this thing apart!

is the glass thick enough for rimless???
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-04-2017, 05:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HappyGrimgore View Post
well I've actually just gotten a quote back for 1/2" glass of the proper size for half the price... I dont understand how one company can charge 50% more than another.. oh well.

At $50 I can replace the side no problem. I'll likely try to buff out the glass first to see if the scuffing and scratches go away. if not, then its not worth replacing the glass ( since i wouldn't be able to not notice the scratching)

heres a couple of pics... the shoddy repair is done with Acrylic on the inside - wooden "frame" on the bottom was home made. Should be interesting taking this thing apart!

is the glass thick enough for rimless???
Wow!!! Glass and acrylic should never be used together, glass for glass and acrylic for acrylic. Glad you didn't fill it up. Personally with 24" tall and 5' long tank I would add a 3"x1/2"center brace top and bottom if you don't have a reason not to as its a little below the acceptable safety ratings. But if you want to wait and test it, if you get more then 1/2" of deflection (flex) then I would definitely add a brace and if not you should be ok. Just want to say there is no 100% guarantee and I would add a brace to be safe but if it were mine I may not and you can understand why I wouldn't say its not going to be an issue. You also want to make sure you have adequate silicone between the glass so I would look up injection method, I have not used this method but I have not built tanks 100g+ and would probably use this method if I did. The reason for this is the weight of the glass and the ability to basically build the tank and then silicone it once everything is perfect. It would be a lot more forgiving time wise but I cannot attest to anything about it because I have not done it.

Dan
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