Best way to add plumbing to the output of a MaxiJet 600 - The Planted Tank Forum
 
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-03-2010, 04:59 PM Thread Starter
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Best way to add plumbing to the output of a MaxiJet 600

Hello all -

I have a MaxiJet 600 powerhead which I'm mainly using to increase circulation in my tank. It's a corner tank so it's been tricky to get the flow right.

What I'd like to do is take my MJ 600 and :

1) Put a tube straight down from the intake and put a nice sponge filter there. To avoid fry getting sucked in and add a bit of mechanical filtration. I have some tiny tank residents and the little pre-filter is ok, but I figure why not add a bigger sponge.

2) Attach some hose to the output and have it go down about 6 inches, then to a T-connector that will send 50% of the output to the far corners of the tank.

According to the manual, the output has a 1/2 inch inner diameter. But, there are no barbs or ways to connect so I'm not sure how to do this.

I was thinking that I could go to the lfs and get some 1/2 ID tubing and just try to push it on to the output of the powerhead. I would also buy a t-connector and a few suction cups to hold it all together. The intake has a barbed connector so that should be easy.

Should I consider putting a bit of aquarium safe sealant to hold the tube onto the output, or will it probably be ok if I just stuff it on?

Also, will the lfs sell little vented caps for the water to output through? If the powerhead fails or is turned off I don't want anyone swimming up there!!

This seems pretty easy but it's new to be - any input much appreciated !!
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-03-2010, 05:12 PM
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I would just use the flapper that comes with most of those powerheads and use it to complement circulation from your filter. Splitting it might actually give you less flow since it's already pretty low. As far as prefilter, I stay away from the fine sponges they clog up quick. The little ones for the fluval are neat and fit well but will plug completely in 2-3 days in my tank. I start will a sponge block and cut as much off the outside as possible. That gives the shrimp the protection and I don't have to clean the sponge more than once a month.
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-03-2010, 05:19 PM Thread Starter
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Sorry for this one: which piece is the flapper???
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-03-2010, 05:29 PM
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This shows it... didn't want to hotlink it.

http://www.marineandreef.com/v/vspfi...AS07260-2T.jpg
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-03-2010, 05:34 PM Thread Starter
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Ok, sorry for this [even dumber] question: is the flapper that large/wide flange that attaches to the output? I have been playing with it but it's just to forceful and in the corner tank I really want two outputs!
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-03-2010, 05:38 PM
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Yes, that's it. Sometimes you can bounce the flow off the wall and get better distribution. You can split it as you first suggested. You'll just have to do some searching for parts and hopefully not end up with more of an unsightly distraction in the tank.
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-03-2010, 05:46 PM Thread Starter
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One nice thing about a corner tank is that the far rear corner is waay back there. I have a heater, powerhead, the down tube to an Eheim prefilter, etc. hiding behind a big pile of driftwood and it's actually nice. About a 6 inch open area, but you wouldn't guess its' there.

So, I can put a bit of plumbing I'm just not sure what to ask for. I thought to use PVC but maybe just some tubing would be fine. It's just that attachment to the power head that I'm nervous about!
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-03-2010, 06:20 PM
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You'll probably need something rigid that's slightly smaller than it should be. If you have a heat gun you can then heat that fitting and force it on. Tubing would work put then it will stick out further since you'd still need a 90 to make your turn. Just take the output tube with you to the hardware store.
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-03-2010, 10:54 PM
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1/2" id tubing will fit on the output of the mj just fine. It will be snug enough to not get blown off. I know you want 2 ouputs but after splitting them, I don't think you will be satisfied with the flow you are going to get. I'm not sure what size tank you have so I could be wrong. Here's what I do. I get a flared output like this. You can use loc-line fittings also but they are too expensive where I live. I get these flared u-tubes and I cut off the flared output right before the elbow. Get a short piece of tubing and connect it to the output of the mj. Doing this little mod will get you a very nice gentle dispersed flow. You can also angle it any way you want. A lot better than the stock piece that has the venturi inlet on it. Do a little needlewheel mod on the impellar and you have a co2 diffusing machine.

I wouldn't even bother with adding a sponge filter on the ph unless that will be your only method of filtration. The original prefilter will work fine for shrimp and fry. If you want something finer than the original prefilter, the zoo med 501 filter sponge will fit on the mj just fine. It's finer than the original but not as fine as most sponge filters you find on the market.
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-03-2010, 11:56 PM Thread Starter
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I am hoping for a gentle but steady flow through the tank. With the corner unit, I am pretty sure that 3 gentle outputs (filter output + powerhead into two outputs) is going to do it!

That flared output looks good, I actually saw it at the lfs today. Is there a way to cut that type of plastic and glue it back together? If so, I could take the end of the venturi flange that comes with the unit and use it as a stem, then cut off the ends of two of those units you linked and put them all together - I could fashion an output similar to the one that comes with the unit but it would have two pivoting heads instead of one!

Possible? I have tons of saws, blades, clamps, etc. but I have no idea of that material can be epoxy-bound, etc.
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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-04-2010, 01:25 AM
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A hacksaw works fine to cut it. Depending on the size of the tubing on the flared output, vinyl tubing will fit around or inside of it. To connect it to my mj, i cut a small piece of 1/2 tubing and put it on the output of the mj. The i took the cut flared output and shoved it on the mj. It is a tight enough fit where it won't cone off.
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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-04-2010, 02:17 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nokturnalkid View Post
A hacksaw works fine to cut it. Depending on the size of the tubing on the flared output, vinyl tubing will fit around or inside of it. To connect it to my mj, i cut a small piece of 1/2 tubing and put it on the output of the mj. The i took the cut flared output and shoved it on the mj. It is a tight enough fit where it won't cone off.
Are you saying that the exact piece that you linked above will fit into a 1/2 ID tube if I cut off the flanges? That's pretty good, cause I could easily construct a little T-joint using short pieces of tube and make my double/aimable flange! Nice!
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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-04-2010, 03:38 AM
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Well if you cut the flared part right before the elbow, you can find tubing that will fit. 5/8 will fit on the outside and 1/2 will fit on the inside. I do this to all my ph's because I don't like the stock flared ones. The one in the pic might be a different size but I doubt it. If it is, there's different sizes of tubing so you should be able to find one that works.
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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-05-2010, 12:32 AM Thread Starter
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I have vinyl tubing with a 1/2 inner diameter around the house. It sounds like I could make what I need using that tubing. Now I just need the parts. More than double the price for that piece at lfs
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