180 gallon tank stand wider then tank? - The Planted Tank Forum
 
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-25-2010, 10:05 PM Thread Starter
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180 gallon tank stand wider then tank?

So i'm planning out a stand for an 180 gallon tank, 6'x2'x2' I want the stand to be 6" wider then the tank so that i can put a nice tile ledge on the front to rest stuff like food and testing equiment instead of the top of the tank where it can fall in.

The stand will be skinned with playwood with a sheet on top also. Construction would be all 2x4's with good 3" screws. Is there a problem with the tank not metting the edge with this frame. I know fastners are not suppose to support a load. But I'm wondering if the joists are ok since it's a short distance and there will be plywood on top, probably 3/4"

It seams like it should be fine with this design especially with a sheet of plywood on top. I drew a line where the front of the tank would be. Just want to check with some people with more experince, i'v only built a stand for a 75 so far.
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-25-2010, 10:10 PM
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How about if you just built a normal stand, and then added the 6" ledge? You could run crown molding under it, and it would look pretty nice...
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-25-2010, 10:18 PM Thread Starter
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I'm planning on building a custum sump from acrylic so this would allow be to make a wider sump also.
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-25-2010, 10:26 PM
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180 gallon tank stand wider then tank?

Just to clarify... Is the point of the ledge to have a place to work/put things when you're doing stuff inside the tank, or is it for permanent storage? Keeping fish food, testing kits, etc wouldn't look very good if it's always sitting there.


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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-25-2010, 11:31 PM Thread Starter
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I working ledge for sure. I figure some nice waterproof tile or something.

Everything would be stored in the stand but test equiment and what not could be set there while using it.

I know most stands have the fram sit right on the support but that extra 6" would be useful, plus with plywood the load should be carried out top the edge well. I would probably use joist hangers along with being srewed and glued.
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-26-2010, 12:48 AM
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That stand would work fine if you use a vertical 2 x 4 under each of the cross pieces on top, so the end of each of them is sitting on a 2 x 4, which sits on the bottom frame, which sits on the floor. As it is shown it would be very likely to sag in the middle, leaving the tank supported primarily at the ends.

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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-26-2010, 03:09 PM Thread Starter
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Hoppy, the sag you mention this is from only having one support over the 6' distance? So if i end up changing my mind and have the tank on the edge of the stand would i need two supports instead of one?

I'm trying to create maxium room under the tank and have the biggest opens possible to access it all. I know most stands are over build for safty and peace of mind, I just down't want to go too far the other way.
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-26-2010, 05:44 PM
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The sag would be because the top cross pieces are supported entirely by screws or nails through the end grain. Those joints would slowly creep under load, until they drop below the top of the horizontal front top member, but the tank can't bend that much, so eventually the tank is just supported in front by the ends. You always need wood supporting the load all the way to the floor - actually all the way to the building foundation.

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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-26-2010, 10:01 PM
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Hoppy, with enough glue on all the seams do you still think it would sag?
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-26-2010, 10:37 PM Thread Starter
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Ifigured with glue and simpson strong tie joist hangers it would be plenty strong and ply wood to help distrubit the load
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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-27-2010, 07:57 PM
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At the front of the stand you won't have a solid plywood panel, but only doors, which don't take any of the load. All you need to do is put a vertical 2 x 4 under each of the two cross pieces, giving you 3 openings in the front of the stand for doors. A glue joint or a Simpson strong joist hanger would help a lot, but it just isn't good practice to not have a wood "post" from load to floor.

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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-27-2010, 08:05 PM
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I wouldn't mess around with trying to "optimize" a tank stand. It's easy and cheap to add an additional 2x4 or pair of them and supports under the front edge of the tank vs having it sag and eventually have 180 gallons of water, substrate, plants, fish, a smashed tank hitting the floor.

John



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