I noticed that when I was looking at the list of available DIY projects in the sub-forum above, the Griggs was not listed. Is the Cerges superior to the Griggs? I was going to ask if anyone knew where I could find the instructions for the Griggs but if the Cerges is better, I will just build that one. It certainly looks more compact compared to the 18"+ of the Griggs.

I did find this page which does have a list. I only have a concern about his instructions because he makes no mention of how he keeps the Co2 tubing watertight. Anyone know?

I began wondering if there was a way to use a separate pump so as not to impede the flow of the filter. I want to get every bit I can out of my filter. In order to do that though, I guess I would have to have a separate intake and return for the reactor right?

Correct.

the smaller diameter of the hole relative to the tubing is what makes the connection water tight.

https://www.plantedtank.net/forums/20-diy/1109754-using-prefilter-co2-reactor-new-post.html

Take a look at my thread. You can use something like this. Folks have used domestic water filter canisters for their Grigg style ones.

It's cheap where I am so there was no point making obe from PVC piping. About USD12 - 13 for the whole project including the metal shutoff valve for the CO2. Only problem is the Jaqno shutoff valves are crap. Both leaked. I had better results from just stuffing the hoses directly into the ports and securing them with cable ties.

At the end of the day, a reactor is basically to increase contact between water and gas so it's just a matter of noise (bubbling) and aesthetics.

Just a side note to this thread - most of the Cerges reactors use some form of whole house filter. For smaller tanks (say 120g or less), they seem to work ok. The biggest drawback I have found is flow thru the Cerges. The factory holes in the head of the whole house filter tend to be pretty small (around 1/2"). This simply limits how much water you can run thru the filter and thus, how much cO2 you can pump into the filter.

The Griggs style is only limited by your imagination and available parts. You likely could build a Griggs style that would support the water flow from a FX6 Canister filter with no problem (I would not recommend a generic Cerges style on a FX6 or similar flow system).

With all that said, either system works well. Basically comes down to your preference and how much cO2 you want to dissolve into your tank.

I have not started building the Griggs yet but have been contemplating what size to use. I'm assuming 2" but trying to determine how tall it needs to be. I'm only running a 45g and I don't anticipate ever increasing the tank to more than maybe 60g. Having said that, I use a Fluval 406 and wonder about two things. First, with the 406 am I limited to how tall O cam make the Griggs? I was thinking about 20". Secondly, where should I let locate the Griggs after completion? The 406 sits on the floor. Should I also rest the Griggs on the floor? I don't know if raising the Griggs will reduce head pressure and increase flow. If I did raise the Griggs, the outflow of the 406 would have to first go up to the top of the Griggs and then out the bottom and up another 20" or so.

If the Griggs sat upright next to the 406, the outflow of the 406 would be about level to the Griggs inlet but then it must travel from the ground up about 48". This is well under the 7 ft 6" max head but I'm guessing that when it states max head of 7'6", that means that the flow is reduced as the height increases until at 7'6" there is literally no flow. Just speculating.

Does anyone have their 406 off the floor to help with head pressure? I so wish now that I had bought the FX6. And I have even started thinking yet about adding an inline heater! 😧

I went looking for the parts to build the black reactor pictured below. Had some trouble finding the parts at both Lowes and Home Depot. In particular, the 1/2" threaded to 5/8" barb. Even 3/4" threaded by 5/8" barb would have been fine. I just can't seem to locate anything with a 5/8" barb. I did find a 90 degree but I'm using the 2' pvc 90 to do the bend so as not to restrict flow. Also had trouble finding a 1/2" threaded by 1/8" (whatever Co2 hose is)barb.

Does anyone have a source for these two items?

I had the same problem finding 5/8" barb fittings at local stores. But I did find some here: 3/4" NPT x 5/8" Hose ID Black HDPE Adapter | U.S. Plastic Corp. . I'm not sure how much shipping is but the part is pretty cheap.

And I found something similar here:

Nylon Tube And Hose Fitting 5/8" HB x 1/2" NPT | U.S. Plastic Corp.

but I haven't found the 1/8" hose barb x 1/2" (or 3/4"). I did find it in metal but really don't want to use metal if I can help it. I am not finding anything with a 1/8" hose barb.

I could only find brass as well so that is what I got. With how small the 1/8 barb is I thought the brass might be a better choice anyway. There's no chance of it snapping off.

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I'm measuring the co2 line I received with my GLA system and it appears to be 3/16" ID. Can anyone confirm?

Bump: Is there any issue with using brass in an aquarium setting? It doesn't rust to put metals into the water does it?

I can't seem to find a 1/8" barb with 1/2" threads or larger. Anyone have a link or help in fitting something to a 2" reducing bushing.

Maybe someone cane help by looking at the image in post 7 above and tell me what size tee that is being used and as well as a fitting that will work as well.

Okay, I may have a simple cheap solution but I need some input. I was at Lowes and when I told the dept head what I was looking for, he took me over to irrigation and showed me this:



Now this is called a threaded sprinkler riser. It is 1/2" thread with a 1/4 OD tube that fits through the connector. The great thing about this is that the tube is hard and thick but can be adjusted and pulled through the adapter to whatever length I want. This would allow me to pull enough of the riser through so that the end would be in the center of the 2" pipe. It is watertight. On the outside, I can cut it and place a barb coupling and connect the C02 line. Now here is my only concern. Will this 1/4 PVC deteriorate over time from the Co2? I'm thinking that because it is rigid and 1/16" thick, there would be little chance of this happening. The barb couplings though are small and thing. Since they are made for water and not C02, the barb may deteriorate quicker.

Thoughts?

I like it;



This will take care of the Co2 Inlet. I still need two of the PVC 5/8" Barb x 3/4" NPT for the top and bottom. It kills me that they only cost .55 each but I have to pay USPlastics.com $11 for shipping. Total rip.