Some plumbing help/ideas needed. Let's see yours. - The Planted Tank Forum
 
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-07-2016, 05:15 PM Thread Starter
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Some plumbing help/ideas needed. Let's see yours.

I'm working on plumbing my FX6 for my 90g into 2 Hydor 200W heaters and what will be a Cerges reactor when the parts arrive, however I've run into a bit of an issue.

If I add valves below the heaters the entire unit is far too tall for me to add anything else to it, and I intend on also adding an EcoPlus pump on the output to help lessen the head pressure seen by the FX6 and to keep the flow rate high.

I wanted to have valves in place above and below the heaters in case I ever needed to replace one so I wouldn't have to shut the filter off and drain out the pipes just to put in a new heater. Since this is so tall with just the valve below the heater there's no room above the heater for a valve, thus making any valves put in place there essentially useless.

I built my stand so that there would be room on the left side for a quarantine tank and I really want that to be there, so I'm trying to keep everything on the right hand side of my stand.

Lastly, I'll also have another EcoPlus for the purposes of doing water changes so that I can just flip a switch and pump out large volumes of water quickly and to also allow a fast filling and draining of the quarantine tank with water from the main tank.

I'd love some some input from people who have plumbed up their systems with PVC, preferably from anyone who might happen to have done this with similar equipment as mine.
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-08-2016, 04:45 AM
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Looking at this with a lot of interest. I have a 75G to be setup with a FX5 and I was thinking a manifold as well with parallel lines going to an inline Hydor 300W and an Ista max mix co2 reactor, with maybe another line for a UV unit. I have a standard 75G stand as well with not much vertical space in it. I had saved up some pics that I found online, maybe on TPT, maybe some place else. I am attaching them, hopefully the guy doesn't mind.Click image for larger version

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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-08-2016, 12:46 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ssid View Post
Looking at this with a lot of interest. I have a 75G to be setup with a FX5 and I was thinking a manifold as well with parallel lines going to an inline Hydor 300W and an Ista max mix co2 reactor, with maybe another line for a UV unit. I have a standard 75G stand as well with not much vertical space in it. I had saved up some pics that I found online, maybe on TPT, maybe some place else. I am attaching them, hopefully the guy doesn't mind.Attachment 669025Attachment 669033Attachment 669041
I did see this one, and from others I've seen they all use the same basic design which is to use tee's and regular elbows......but I'm no Simple Jack

the FX6 is rated at 925GPH for the pump, but a little closer look into their specs and they also mention that with the media installed it only moves 563GPH.
one of my goals here is to keep that flow rate "unchanged" and adding a bunch of plumbing on the output will most certainly affect it, which is why I'm using 45* elbows, 90* sweep elbows and wye fittings, to mitigate sudden changes in fluid direction.

I also don't like the idea of using tubing to mount the Hydors because it will add further restrictions where you transfer from PVC-barb-hose-barb-Hydor so I've opted instead to thread those in. The 5/8" model of Hydor has a thread that is close enough to 1/2" NPT to work.
It's really not a 1/2" NPT thread but it will fit that thread size with a bit of caution and sealing.

I custom built my stand and as such it's a bit "oddly" designed. I have about 28" of height inside in certain spots, and in one of the pictures you can see the 2x4 at the bottom that the manifold is sitting on.
Well, that 2x4 will allow me to put a piece of plywood across the bottom to sit the FX6 on leaving me with a space under the FX6 to lay some plumbing on the stand bottom and save some height..... I know that doesn't make much sense without a picture so I'll try and get one as soon as I can.

I do also want to add a UV sterilizer but I haven't yet found a decently priced and reasonably sized one. the AquaUV 80 would probably suit my needs, but it's a bit cost prohibitive.

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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-09-2016, 06:18 AM
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why don't you fit the plumbing horizontally to the "roof" of your cabinet?
I'm guessing the stand is longer that it is high.

I might be dutch but I don't have a dutch scape.


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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-09-2016, 03:09 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fietsenrex View Post
why don't you fit the plumbing horizontally to the "roof" of your cabinet?
I'm guessing the stand is longer that it is high.
Because the road to hell is paved with good intentions lol

This was originally going to be attached to the output of the FX6, however after speaking with the Hagen company, asking some technical questions and hoping for some technical information in return they were, let's just say, less than impressed with the whole idea; Something about the FX6 creating a quantum singularity and fluxing the entire space-time continuum bringing about the end of universe, apparently it's very bad to do anything other than run the filter alone and as designed.

I wanted keep the water flow as laminar as possible and not cut the flow of the FX6 by too much.

That's pretty much all out the window now.

I'm going to run this equipment loop separately with an EcoPlus 594GPH pump on the outlet of the manifold so it will suck water through it.
I haven't decided how to handle having 2 suction and 2 outlets in the tank. I wanted to keep as much out of it as possible.

So I may just use the roof of my stand like you suggest.

Attached are more pics of other Ideas I was tossing around.
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-09-2016, 03:47 PM
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I was also thinking of running a second canister, I have an XP3 lying around. Will hookup my co2, heater on that one. Planning to make a custom spray bar for the FX5 running it across the back wall of the tank and running the xp3 spray bar perpendicular to it across the side wall.
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-09-2016, 06:03 PM Thread Starter
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I just picked up some 45* street elbows which I think will allow me to bring the overall height down by about the inch or so that I need for it to fit properly in my stand.

If it works then it means I won't have to sacrifice the valves that would allow me to remove a heater without shutting the system down.

Basically it's the difference between having no valves on either side of the heather or two valves. If I remove the valves then height is of no concern at all, but adding the valves makes it too tall right now but about 1 or maybe 2"

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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-11-2016, 06:44 PM Thread Starter
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I think I'm onto something now!

It's evolved a fair bit since the original pictures, but the creative use of street elbows saved me just enough height for this to fit in my stand, and allow for the use of valving proper.

The left hand side will be used for the cerges reactor, where it will cycle through the reactor and then back into the piping so that all of the water is heated and I don't have any unheated water going back to the tank (not that heating should be a problem really)
I'll also be able to divert as much or as little flow through the reactor as possible.

Also included is a full bypass to let water flow straight through and back out if necessary.
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-12-2016, 07:11 PM Thread Starter
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Awwwwww yeah!! My filter housing arrived today for the Cerges-style reactor. Since I already had the UGF tube and the Eheim Installation Kit intake strainer I was easily able to assemble it, and 3/4" fittings means lots of flow
I'll pull out the "pressure relief valve" and use that to feed CO2 into the reactor.

I will no longer be able to fit a 20 gallon quarantine tank in the stand though
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