Fix my CONTROLLER thread - The Planted Tank Forum
 
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-24-2010, 12:21 AM Thread Starter
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Fix my CONTROLLER thread

Bought this about 2 weeks ago

http://www.thatpetplace.com/pet/group/4530/product.web

has a horrible leak that drains a paintball CO2 tank in about 4days...

Ive already ordered a standard replacement w/ a 5# tank...but in the meantime, I cant figure out how to separate the pieces to apply some pipe dope to seal the threads (most DIY threads are for standard regulators) and then Ill throw it on my 10gal shrimp tank

so any suggestions?

Ill post some pics later on of the air leaks
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-24-2010, 01:49 AM
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A machine tech from Milwaukee Instruments, told me that alot of regulator gauges are soldered/welded in place. I would imagine that if you are having difficulty turning fittings, you are prolly not meant to... Im sure @ 35 dollars, these are manufactured to be replaceable, not repairable! IMO


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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-24-2010, 02:53 AM
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These are strictly on/ off valves and not regulators in order to make it a true regulator you need to add a needle valve atleast. If you search the web and this site you will see these brought up alot. When they first came available a couple years ago there were tons of problems with them. With this you really get what you pay for.

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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-24-2010, 03:43 AM
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To check for a leak, spray soapy water all over fittings to see.

I have seen these work well, but it involved a really good needle valve...
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-24-2010, 04:07 AM Thread Starter
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you all have offered me that advice before...ive already checked for leaks...thats why i kno its leaking

and you corrected me before that its a controller and not a regulator...so any suggestions on how I can fix this?

the idea that they are welded in place may be correct cuz I cant turn it with reasonable strength...so what if I tried to weld/solder them shut?
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-24-2010, 04:20 AM
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Originally Posted by killacross View Post
you all have offered me that advice before...ive already checked for leaks...thats why i kno its leaking

and you corrected me before that its a controller and not a regulator...so any suggestions on how I can fix this?

the idea that they are welded in place may be correct cuz I cant turn it with reasonable strength...so what if I tried to weld/solder them shut?
ARE YOU TIRED??? The price on that is 35 bucks... If you are gonna try to do some crazy welding/soldering, and most likely melt parts of it, you might as well get a new one before you waste your money on welding/soldering supplies.

In fact you should save the money for both welding/soldering supplies and the money for a new controller, and get a bottle a regulator. Do us a favor a get one of those NEW smith regs from Orlando, and let us know how they work You might as well be the Guinea Pig.


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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-24-2010, 10:48 AM Thread Starter
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still...thats $35 earned from countless hours(~2) that Ive given of my life...breaking my back at my crap(hate it) job to earn...so...I want this to work, and since I have easy access to welding tools...was just curious if that would help

...but still, post a link to this "Smith Regulator from Orlando" you speak of

**EDIT**

I just looked into it...and at $190, it COMPLETELY eliminates the point of using paintball CO2...no thx

Last edited by killacross; 03-26-2010 at 01:03 AM. Reason: LANGUAGE!
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-24-2010, 01:33 PM
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If you need to use Paintball Tanks, and you are willing put a few parts together, you can build something like this. Dual Stage regulator means no low pressure rise (end of tank dump) and is built like a tank. Remove the paintball adapter later, to use a normal CO2 tank. It will still cost about $150.00, you can minus the solenoid and run it 24/7 and save the cost of the solenoid and timer. Anyway, just another idea.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/h_bosma...7622829944660/
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-24-2010, 06:31 PM
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maybe some JB weld to plug where leaks are ^^ works on everything lol
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-24-2010, 06:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by killacross View Post
Bought this about 2 weeks ago

http://www.thatpetplace.com/pet/group/4530/product.web

has a horrible leak that drains a paintball CO2 tank in about 4days...

Ive already ordered a standard replacement w/ a 5# tank...but in the meantime, I cant figure out how to separate the pieces to apply some pipe dope to seal the threads (most DIY threads are for standard regulators) and then Ill throw it on my 10gal shrimp tank

so any suggestions?

Ill post some pics later on of the air leaks
Just realized you said that you got it two weeks ago. Couldn't you return it for replacement?
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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-24-2010, 06:49 PM
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maybe some JB weld to plug where leaks are ^^ works on everything lol
+1 on jb weld, or maybe even epoxy or bubble gum depending on where its leaking and yes i have fixed quite a few things with bubble gum lol
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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-26-2010, 01:02 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hbosman View Post
Just realized you said that you got it two weeks ago. Couldn't you return it for replacement?
I tried that...and at first they were out of stock...now that they have them in stock...they wont honor it

so...Im thinking of spending $15 to try to fix it...and if that doesnt work...Im buying something better...still not spending $190 tho <_<...i could get a std. reg and 2.5# tank for that

$50 life lesson...damn fish tanks, the lesson are ALWAYS so expensive <_<

Last edited by killacross; 03-26-2010 at 12:26 PM.
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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-26-2010, 04:36 AM
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No one ever said a standard reg was bad, I use one daily...


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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-26-2010, 12:27 PM Thread Starter
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Im sorry, dont understand your comment...
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post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-04-2010, 09:03 PM Thread Starter
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***update...Ive fixed it***

thx for the useful suggestions

a coating of JB weld...followed by a little bit of gas-thread seal tape two days later...followed by a final layer of JB weld
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