Can you make a tank Rimless!?!! - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #1 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-15-2016, 07:12 PM Thread Starter
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Can you make a tank Rimless!?!!

A lot of people who have planted tanks and are stunning all have rimless tanks. My LFS does not sell rimless tanks and I barely see them around. So I was wondering if people remove them from rimmed tanks or even if it's possible. I love the look with no rim
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post #2 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-15-2016, 07:38 PM
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go to glass workshop and buy glass by the dimension you want and silicone it together
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BFUWVOaMlB4
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post #3 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-17-2016, 02:48 AM
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It baffles me how the silicon can hold all that outward pressure in a rimless tank.
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post #4 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-17-2016, 02:58 AM
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Small tanks, such as nano tanks often are rimless. Not much pressure. But the typical tanks.... I too wonder this (my 29 gallon rim is actually bending outwards at the top and it worries me )


-->Max
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post #5 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-17-2016, 03:21 AM
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Eh don't de-rim your tank, they are there for a reason.

If you are doing planted tank, it would suck for you tank to fail after countless hour getting a good scape going. You can always order tank online.
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post #6 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-17-2016, 03:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rickie View Post
A lot of people who have planted tanks and are stunning all have rimless tanks. My LFS does not sell rimless tanks and I barely see them around. So I was wondering if people remove them from rimmed tanks or even if it's possible. I love the look with no rim
Hi,
As far as I know, rimless tanks tend to have thicker glass so that it can withstand the force exerted from the water on the lengths of the tank. As thicker glass is used for rimless tanks, naturally the cost of the tank goes up.

Removing the rims from a normal tank is a asking for trouble. You may never know when the joints will give way and flood your place and killing your fish at the same time.

Recently I was looking a 5 feet rimless tank ( 5ft X 2ft x2ft using 15mm glass) and the cost difference was quite wide. If you don't mind a less than perfect look than a ADA style tank, you can have the braces at the bottom of the tank and they will be covered up by the substrate when you're scaping the tank. To bring the cost south, the bottom glass for the tank need not be as thick as the sides.

I was even advised by the tank maker that even the sides ( provided that they're not too long) can be thinner(12mm thick) than the longest sides(15mm thick).

Below is photo my 4 feet tank (48" x 22" x 22") with braces at the bottom. The glass is 12mm thick on all side. As for the silicon you can choose between black and clear.

Hope this was useful.
Cheers.
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post #7 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-17-2016, 04:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by No.92 View Post
It baffles me how the silicon can hold all that outward pressure in a rimless tank.
it isn't even the silicone that is exposed on the inside of the tank that does this, that is just the seal..... the real bonding is done in those little areas glass meets glass, held together by an almost capillary thin layer of the stuff. I distrust the black stuff though as you can't see failures.

I have two 60 gal rimless made from 5mm float glass.... tough as nails.

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post #8 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-17-2016, 05:09 AM
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For me those tanks with rims are actually funny thing. In Poland there're only rimless tanks (not counting old tanks with metal rims on every side), done with DIN 32622 standards and that's all you need to be safe. It's calculated, so really no need to worry. Done with float you even can have 1 l for 1 zł (around 1 gal for 1 $). With opti you can expect 1 l for 3-10 zł (depends on seller, really, there's a place where you can order new, done exactly as you want 200x50x50 cm opti for 1500 zł, it's actually around 1 gal for 3 $! I'm just waiting to get enough free money... )


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post #9 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-17-2016, 05:13 AM
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Same, only rimmed tanks are imports.

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post #10 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-18-2016, 11:47 PM
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A lot of tanks can be de-rimmed, others can't. It depends on the length and thickness of the glass. I de-rimmed a 29 gallon but it's going to be a paladarium so it will only have water in the bottom third or so. I also left the rim on the bottom so I wouldn't have to do anything with a mat. It may still go later. If you do a search on here there are tons of threads about people derimming their tanks. That flexible strip of plastic on top doesn't offer a whole lot of strength. A lot of people feel if it doesn't have a center brace, or a one piece molded plastic frame on top (instead of 4 pieces joined at the corners) that it's safe to de-rim. YMMV.

If you want to de-rim and are concerned about the glass strength you can add a Eurobrace. A glass strip siliconed to the top, in the center, from the front to the back. There are other ways to brace the top with glass also.

If you do a search on here you'll find some instructions on de-rimming. I used a hand plane and kept planing the outside corner of the upper frame until I cut through, then carefully peeled off the pieces. Clean up the excess silicone with a razor blade and alcohol. Knock the sharp edges off the glass with a block and some fine sandpaper. BE CAREFUL IT'S EXTREMELY SHARP.

As someone else noted the rim is there for a reason, but I think the reason is so they can do an ugly sloppy silicone job and not bother to polish the edge of the glass. It's all about $$$.

I also wouldn't build a small rimless unless you have a real good source for glass. It's got so expensive to buy from a glass shop that many people buy tanks at the $ per gallon sales at Petco and Petsmart and harvest the glass from the tanks because it's cheaper than buying the glass outright.
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post #11 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-19-2016, 01:06 AM
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Just some things to consider:

If the tank has a center brace, it's there for a reason. A reason you don't want to defeat. The center brace allows for the use of thinner glass, which makes them cheaper to build and ship.

Smaller tanks without center braces are a different animal. The top trim certainly does "bind it together" at the corners, but pressure issues aren't as severe. As Maxhrbl noted, today's 29G's bow severely; 1/16" on each viewing pane at the top isn't out of the question (I can vouch for it!).

Without any real science behind it, I wouldn't de-rim anything larger than a 15G.

You also have to consider that the edges the plastic trim conceal, are razor sharp and can even be ragged and chipped. So you need to be prepared to deal with either or both.

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post #12 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-19-2016, 07:58 PM
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This is thread on derimming a 75 gallon with center brace. https://www.plantedtank.net/forums/20...g-project.html

This is a quote from that thread that originally came from Aquarium Answers website.

"The trim (which is generally plastic) offers LITTLE support other than providing a “cushion” between the bottom glass and stand and as well a “convenient” way to place the lid, lights, etc., on top. Of coarse the trim does certainly add to the attractiveness(mg: i like that part ), but as someone that has worked with high end aquarium manufacturers and built/repaired many myself, I can tell the reader here from an experience that the trim offers little in support and if it is necessary for support, you have a dangerously poorly built aquarium!
As well, I have removed trim from many tanks (including large ones) and filled them with water with no difference other than the unattractive aspect."
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post #13 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-19-2016, 08:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kubla View Post
This is thread on derimming a 75 gallon with center brace. https://www.plantedtank.net/forums/20...g-project.html

This is a quote from that thread that originally came from Aquarium Answers website.

"The trim (which is generally plastic) offers LITTLE support other than providing a “cushion” between the bottom glass and stand and as well a “convenient” way to place the lid, lights, etc., on top. Of coarse the trim does certainly add to the attractiveness(mg: i like that part ), but as someone that has worked with high end aquarium manufacturers and built/repaired many myself, I can tell the reader here from an experience that the trim offers little in support and if it is necessary for support, you have a dangerously poorly built aquarium!
As well, I have removed trim from many tanks (including large ones) and filled them with water with no difference other than the unattractive aspect."
All I can add to this is that I have several used tanks. I know some were used as SW settups back when Metal Halides was the platform of choice. MH lights were and are brutal on plastic trim that wasn't designed for it. If you've ever seen a center brace crack and start to grow it would at least give you cause to stop and think. I'm not trying to be an alarmist here at all. Merely sharing thoughts and experiences. If I were to de-rim a standard tank as big as a 75G, Eurobracing would be part of my plan.

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post #14 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-20-2016, 03:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Bushkill View Post
All I can add to this is that I have several used tanks. I know some were used as SW settups back when Metal Halides was the platform of choice. MH lights were and are brutal on plastic trim that wasn't designed for it. If you've ever seen a center brace crack and start to grow it would at least give you cause to stop and think. I'm not trying to be an alarmist here at all. Merely sharing thoughts and experiences. If I were to de-rim a standard tank as big as a 75G, Eurobracing would be part of my plan.
I don't think I'd ever do one without a brace either. I don't think anyone should derim any tank without some research and an extreme amount of caution. Just wanted to share that it was possible.
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post #15 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-20-2016, 05:03 AM
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if I were to build a rimless from scratch I would have the glass cut at a place that can bevel, and grind edges straight.
its is kind of a cool process, there are some vids on youtube showing how it is done. But then again I'd also design it to have a bean animal overflow as part of the actual tank. (i.e. tank sides and rear would be modified).
As it stands I have enough tanks just needing the odd glass panel replaced. I think I have one 26gal long with a eurobrace.

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