Hacking the Fluval Fresh & Plant 2.0 LED light - Page 4 - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #46 of 111 (permalink) Old 04-17-2017, 04:28 AM
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I've been following this even though I know ZERO about electronics. I had (2) original Fluval fresh/plant lights with the standard 3.5mm power plug. One of the power supplies died and Fluval gave me a new 2.0 as there are no replacement power supplies anymore. I had planned on getting a controller next, but now Fluval has changed to a proprietary cable setup.

In a nutshell, I'm looking for a hack a stooge could do to convert the 2.0 to a 3.5mm plug to use production controllers other than the Fluval wifi unit or a way to rewire it to use aftermarket controllers that are stooge friendly like the TC420.

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post #47 of 111 (permalink) Old 04-17-2017, 04:56 PM
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https://www.ez-robot.com/uploads/tip...8140986328.jpg

Found out that the PWM signal just have to be a GND pwm !! used a TIP122 to do this and then it works like a charm.

Quote:
The wiring is :
yellow = GND
White = 24v
Red = All whites and red leds
Black = Blue.

So just feed gnd/gnd pwm to red and black and you can control it.

https://youtu.be/kPqia2FrTJo
all info is actually here.. He used a transistor as a "switch" on the ground side in which case you may be able to use a tc-420 directly.. Need to verify..
Tc-420 "pulses" ground.. White wire is a power "pass through" I believe..

some more astute geeks need to clean this up..it isn't difficult

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post #48 of 111 (permalink) Old 05-11-2017, 02:15 PM
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Hi all i am new to this group and have been watching its progress, Great work !

I have found this module online that may be of use to the Apex neptune users out there.
I havent tried it but it seems to meet the criteria found in the thread. including the 1KHz pwm and open-collector NPN drive. Taken that you could attach this inline with the 24v supply and connect the 0-10v from the apex to the input. you would need 2 of these for the white and blues.

Quote:
"This is a linear transformation module, processing by the internal chip, the input voltage signal is converted to 0~100%PWM output signal.
There are two output voltage and two frequency ranges to choose.

Module parameters
1, the working voltage : 9V ~ 24V
2, the input voltage range : 0.00V ~ 5.00V / 0.00V ~ 10.00V
3, the output frequency range: 1KHz / 8KHz
4, the output duty cycle range: 0 to 100%
5, the input mode: J1 pads on the circuit board: Open (0 ~ 5V); shorted (0 ~ 10V). default is open.
6, output: J2 pads on the circuit board: open (1KHz); short (8KHz), the default is open.
7, drive mode: open-collector NPN drive, the maximum current 200MA, external voltage range of 1 ~ 30V.
8, Applications: Remote data acquisition and control equipment;
9, Size: (L) 26mm * (W) 23mm * (height) 10mm

Module interfaces:
24V: positive power supply interfaces (9V ~ 24V).
G: Power to the ground interface.
IN: positive signal input interface.
G: negative signal input interface.
OUT: Signal output interfaces (1KHz/8KHz).
G: Power to the ground interface.
Input voltage selection: J1 pad
Open: Input (0.00V ~ 5.00V) output corresponding to 0 to 100% duty cycle pulse signal.
Short: Input (0.00V ~ 10.00V) output corresponding to 0 to 100% duty cycle pulse signal.
Output frequency selection: J2 pad
Open: 1KHz pulse output signal.
Short: 8KHz pulse signal output."

[Ebay Link Removed] Voltage to PWM 0-5v 0-10v to PWM 0-100% Linear Conversion Transmitter Module | eBay[/url]

Keywords searched : Voltage to PWM 0-5v 0-10v to PWM 0-100% Linear Conversion Transmitter Module

Anyone with a apex tried this ?
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post #49 of 111 (permalink) Old 05-11-2017, 05:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TwistedStems View Post
Hi all i am new to this group and have been watching its progress, Great work !

I have found this module online that may be of use to the Apex neptune users out there.
I havent tried it but it seems to meet the criteria found in the thread. including the 1KHz pwm and open-collector NPN drive. Taken that you could attach this inline with the 24v supply and connect the 0-10v from the apex to the input. you would need 2 of these for the white and blues.

Quote:
"This is a linear transformation module, processing by the internal chip, the input voltage signal is converted to 0~100%PWM output signal.
There are two output voltage and two frequency ranges to choose.

Module parameters
1, the working voltage : 9V ~ 24V
2, the input voltage range : 0.00V ~ 5.00V / 0.00V ~ 10.00V
3, the output frequency range: 1KHz / 8KHz
4, the output duty cycle range: 0 to 100%
5, the input mode: J1 pads on the circuit board: Open (0 ~ 5V); shorted (0 ~ 10V). default is open.
6, output: J2 pads on the circuit board: open (1KHz); short (8KHz), the default is open.
7, drive mode: open-collector NPN drive, the maximum current 200MA, external voltage range of 1 ~ 30V.
8, Applications: Remote data acquisition and control equipment;
9, Size: (L) 26mm * (W) 23mm * (height) 10mm

Module interfaces:
24V: positive power supply interfaces (9V ~ 24V).
G: Power to the ground interface.
IN: positive signal input interface.
G: negative signal input interface.
OUT: Signal output interfaces (1KHz/8KHz).
G: Power to the ground interface.
Input voltage selection: J1 pad
Open: Input (0.00V ~ 5.00V) output corresponding to 0 to 100% duty cycle pulse signal.
Short: Input (0.00V ~ 10.00V) output corresponding to 0 to 100% duty cycle pulse signal.
Output frequency selection: J2 pad
Open: 1KHz pulse output signal.
Short: 8KHz pulse signal output."

[Ebay Link Removed] Voltage to PWM 0-5v 0-10v to PWM 0-100% Linear Conversion Transmitter Module | eBay[/url]

Keywords searched : Voltage to PWM 0-5v 0-10v to PWM 0-100% Linear Conversion Transmitter Module

Anyone with a apex tried this ?
Wording is a bit confusing but it sounds like the output is an NPN collector which would work except it's only rated for 200mA. But you could just use a resistor to turn this into a normal signal that you'd wire up to a larger NPN/FET to run the lights.


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post #50 of 111 (permalink) Old 05-11-2017, 05:35 PM
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Like stated above, the dinky MOSFET on that board won't take the current from the lights...

Quote:
There are two output voltage and two frequency ranges to choose.
That didn't help either, I assume they mean "input"..

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post #51 of 111 (permalink) Old 05-11-2017, 07:48 PM
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I was thinking of passing the 24v from the wall wart straight to the light and just pull a wire to supply this 24v as well using this to generate the pwm signals at 200mA.

Just need to find out what plugs they are to make my junction box.

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post #52 of 111 (permalink) Old 05-11-2017, 08:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TwistedStems View Post
I was thinking of passing the 24v from the wall wart straight to the light and just pull a wire to supply this 24v as well using this to generate the pwm signals at 200mA.

Just need to find out what plugs they are to make my junction box.
The PWM for the lights "switches" full current regardless of the "control signal"...

It is just like the strip lighting..which is happy w/ things like this:
555 timing chip circuitry feeding the gate if an internal MOSFET rated at 8A..

This is a $4 hacked PWM dimmer rated at 8A.. just bypassed the MOSFET to feed LDD's. Doesn't apply in this case but this is the "theory" behind most of these dim circuits in strip type lights since they run constant voltage..
You need to pulse each channel at full current..


http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...jAas2zQPJco%3d

Quote:
This can be dealt with by using a high power NPN or N-Channel MOSFET, such as an IRF510 used here. This MOSFET is rated for 5.6 Amps which is enough to power about 9 meters with 30 LEDs per meter. The MOSFET acts as a switch which that is opened to all the higher voltage flow to the strip. For more details on how a MOSFET works check out bildr's tutorial. It allows control signals to be sent from the PWM pins on the Edison and for it to be turned on or fade when the Edison tell's it to.
regardless of the control circuit, you need to handle amps..
I can't picture how you can possibly do it your way.. but ??
Intro to LED Strips: 9 Steps (with Pictures)

Using that board you just need to tap the gate leg and run it to a lager power mosfet.. That part runs your lights..

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Last edited by jeffkrol; 05-11-2017 at 08:18 PM. Reason: edit
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post #53 of 111 (permalink) Old 05-12-2017, 02:45 PM
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I seem to have got confused after the drawing in MrMan post #26 of 52 (permalink) Old 04-06-2016, 08:02 PM. i will look into the Mosfets, fingers crossed i dont blow the fitting !

Thanks

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post #54 of 111 (permalink) Old 05-12-2017, 03:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TwistedStems View Post
I seem to have got confused after the drawing in MrMan post #26 of 52 (permalink) Old 04-06-2016, 08:02 PM. i will look into the Mosfets, fingers crossed i dont blow the fitting !

Thanks
Note the large MOSFETS behind the wires. the "control circuit" opens the gates (PWM output) to full current going through them..
controller allows power pass through..AFAICT thus 4 wires not 3..
One side.. one light.. 2 channels each "circuit"..There is an independent control circuit in the light head, which should of course be turned off if using the module..


all of course as I see it.. YMMV..

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Last edited by jeffkrol; 05-12-2017 at 03:48 PM. Reason: edit
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post #55 of 111 (permalink) Old 05-15-2017, 03:26 PM
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Has anyone managed to find compatable plugs and sockets for the fluval plugs so i dont have to cut the cable?

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post #56 of 111 (permalink) Old 05-29-2017, 09:44 PM
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I ordered several different ones from china off of ebay, but wasn't able to find ones that actually fit. I found some that were similar but they weren't quite the right size. What I ended up doing is opening up the power supply and unsoldering the connector leading out of the brick and replacing it with one of my ebay finds and then I took the connector I removed and reused that for hooking the light up to my raspberry pi.

The power supply was actually pretty easy to open up compared to some of the others that I've opened. I just put it in a vise at an angle and squeezed it until it opened up enough to pry it open with a screwdriver. There were 2 blobs of some sort of white caulking that hold the circuit board to the case. I just used the screw driver to scrape it away and it popped right out.
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post #57 of 111 (permalink) Old 05-30-2017, 12:19 AM
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I'm still somewhat confused. No one knows if there's a way to cut the end off the connectors, burn in standard 3.5mm male on the power supply and a 3.5mm female on the light so the aftermarket controllers can be used? I see the factory setup has (4) wires. I'm going to take a guess that the power supply sends (1) pair of wires for the "white" LEDs and (1) pair for the "blue"?

Tommy

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post #58 of 111 (permalink) Old 05-30-2017, 02:00 PM
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As posted earlier and all assumptions lead to you have a channel "common", 2 pwm-lated wires and a power bypass to power thecircuitry on the light head.
Should be able to use only 3 wires w/ 3rd party controllers..

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post #59 of 111 (permalink) Old 06-15-2017, 02:46 AM
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0-10vDC to each of the "PWM*" wires will dim the lights. 0vDC = full brightness, 10vdc = off, 5vDC = 50%, and so on.

This is NOT true PWM, using the term PWM for this is incorrect and whomever built the board simply labeled it as PWM even though it is not.
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post #60 of 111 (permalink) Old 06-15-2017, 03:52 AM
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Hmmm.. Can't see that being correct..though hard to argue if it works that way and is different than most "simple" constant voltage arrays...
There would be no need for the 4 large power MOSFETS on the board..

nor would 10-0V dimming require such large wires..
Besides few drivers using 0-10v actually work backwards besides constant current buckpucks.....

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