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post #5 of (permalink) Old 02-29-2012, 04:53 PM
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My 150 watt MH is 36" above the substrate and provides bright light. Without CO2 you would be extremely frustrated with your fixture. Putting a layer or two or three of window screen, at that point just shade cloth would do it, between light and water would reduce the light enough so you won't need CO2. Big waste of electricity however.

I am running 8000K at the moment and like the color very much. Some here use 10000K in combination with other colors of fluorescent. If you like the color of the plants and fish 10000K is just fine.

This is a corner tank that is quite deep, right? I would start out with heavily shaded MH and be looking for something else. Perhaps you want to invest in pressurized CO2? Perhaps the PAR38 LED would work? Sure is an interesting notion, there are some people here that have them on the tanks.

That phosphate reactor probably could work as a CO2 reactor, looks a lot like the Cerge's reactor discussed in the DIY forum.

I really really like sponges for biological filtration. Use one or two in differing pore counts in your baskets. Floss seems like you would be breaking open the filter constantly as it loads up so fast. Instead try a sponge prefilter you can remove and rinse out as needed.

For cheap IF you don't think you are a scape tinkerer you could go potting soil+sand. Me, a life long tinkerer. No way. For cheap I found a pond aquatic soil, really more like very hard kitty litter and mixed with gravel. Mine is Schultz's Aquatic Soil, google up images to see what you have in your area. I like a natural tan color and the gravel and SAS are in the same color family. Then you can put root tabs under the rosette plants like crypts and swords that like nutrients in the substrate. The SAS holds nutrients just like the more expensive eco complete and flourite and is much cheaper. Here some use Turface, same stuff but might be harder to locate.

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