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post #16 of 25 (permalink) Old 09-23-2020, 01:40 PM
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In planted tank speak, Light is the biggest limiting factor for good fish pics. There usually isn't enough of it in most tanks to take sharp pics of moving fish since they usually require fast shutter speeds (1/100+) To achieve those speeds you need a very shallow depth of field (small f number) and/or high iso number. Small f numbers might result in only part of the fish being sharp and high iso numbers makes the pic look grainy.

Tanks with high lighting have more flexibility sometimes since they can be powerful enough at high setting to achieve the needed shutter speeds without going to low on f number or too high on iso.

To fully eliminate the light issue, using OCF (Off Camera Flash) as mentioned by @Bettatail is the way to go. The OCF is so powerful and quick it will eliminate the shutter and ISO issue rendering them meaningless as the OCF controls the shot.

This pic of a 3/4" RCS was taken with an OCF. The shutter speed was 1/160, F10 an an ISO of 100. Without the OCF this pic would have been solid black with those numbers. In fact I could have gotten the same pic with the tank lights off since all the light is coming from the flash and not the ambient light in the tank. The flash is powerful and quick and renders very sharp images regardless of shutter speed.

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post #17 of 25 (permalink) Old 09-23-2020, 02:10 PM
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Quote:
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recently add some flashes and try the HSS mode for hummingbird shot.
I haven't tried flash yet, but this last spring I got a new 150 - 600mm lens.



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To fully eliminate the light issue, using OCF (Off Camera Flash) as mentioned by @Bettatail is the way to go. The OCF is so powerful and quick it will eliminate the shutter and ISO issue rendering them meaningless as the OCF controls the shot.
I've been thinking about getting OCF for a long time now, but I have no clue what I should get on my modest budget. I have a Canon 80D. Any suggestions? I assume I'd have to set it above the tank when setting up for shots?

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post #18 of 25 (permalink) Old 09-23-2020, 02:40 PM
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I haven't tried flash yet, but this last spring I got a new 150 - 600mm lens.

I've been thinking about getting OCF for a long time now, but I have no clue what I should get on my modest budget. I have a Canon 80D. Any suggestions? I assume I'd have to set it above the tank when setting up for shots?

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Wow a 600mm, that must be fun, longest I have is a 200. Very nice humming bird shot. My camera gear is getting a little dated I'm still shooting with my Canon 60D (was going to upgrade to the 80/90) just haven't done it. I'm using a Canon 580EX II Speedlite. I think it's now the 600, but I know many of the off-brands work very well. Nice thing about the Canon is that the built-in flash will trigger the OCF. Not sure if the off-brands do that or not or if you have to buy a trigger to put in the camera shoe. You can also buy the 580 or other Canon flash used ridiculously cheap.

Sometimes I put the OCF over the tank, but believe it or not the RCS pic I shot right through the glass on an angle. I've done that many times and got good results.
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post #19 of 25 (permalink) Old 09-23-2020, 02:56 PM
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Wow a 600mm, that must be fun, longest I have is a 200. Very nice humming bird shot.
It's great to shoot with, but it's damn heavy. I finally upgraded from the Canon kit 75 - 300mm. I upgrade cameras from the T3 spring of last year. I stayed with a model I could still use all my current lenses.

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I'm using a Canon 580EX II Speedlite. I think it's now the 600, but I know many of the off-brands work very well. Nice thing about the Canon is that the built-in flash will trigger the OCF. Not sure if the off-brands do that or not or if you have to buy a trigger to put in the camera shoe. You can also buy the 580 or other Canon flash used ridiculously cheap.
I'll be looking into that soon then. Thanks!

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Sometimes I put the OCF over the tank, but believe it or not the RCS pic I shot right through the glass on an angle. I've done that many times and got good results.
Interesting!


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post #20 of 25 (permalink) Old 09-23-2020, 05:17 PM
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@evil8, as @Asteroid mention, a cheap 580ex will work.

Actually the 80d you have, has wireless optical master function on built in flash, your choice of flashes for off camera ttl/manual flashes are 550ex, 430ex/I/ll/lll, 580ex/I/ll, and the 600ex rt.
Some yongnuo models are compatible as Canon ttl slave, 565ex, 568ex, 600ex, 685ex.

There is one downside of the build in flash master function, it is not hss capable, but you can get a old Canon st-e2 ir transmitter, it is also cheap.

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Canon 550ex, 580ex l/ll, 600ex, and yongnuo 568 ll/lll, yn600ex ll, are capable as on camera wireless optical master control, HSS mode also work. So you can get two or more flashes if you like, one as on camera master, others are OCF ttl slaves.
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post #21 of 25 (permalink) Old 09-23-2020, 08:28 PM
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Unfortunately I don't have the wonderful 60mm Olympus macro lens in my M43 kit but I have the Pan 30mm macro and the 7Artisans 60mm manual macro seen above with a weird tube they claim can be used for an underwater shot (putting the tube underwater, then lens is not waterproof). I'm not sure how the tube helps with an underwater shot except that maybe it eliminates glare on the surface.
In my case, the tank is 20" high, so my working distance from the top is long for macro, the 1:1 distance on this one is 26cm from camera or about 10 inches, so I might be able to hit drift wood higher up at close to 1:1. I'm thinking I might want to see what this tube does.

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post #22 of 25 (permalink) Old 09-23-2020, 11:56 PM
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don't be obsess with the minimal focus distance on a macro lens, I think the concept of 1:1 was originated from 35mm film back in the days, now we are in the digital age, with high resolution picture you can always zoom in and crop,

don't recommend to use the tube half submerged into the water either, risk is high that your camera get wet(drop in the water). It is much safer to use a off camera flash(with simple diffuser) and take picture on other side of the glass.

you can look into yongnuo flash and off camera flash trigger, price is affordable.

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post #23 of 25 (permalink) Old 09-24-2020, 12:47 AM
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...
In my case, the tank is 20" high, so my working distance from the top is long for macro, the 1:1 distance on this one is 26cm from camera or about 10 inches, so I might be able to hit drift wood higher up at close to 1:1. I'm thinking I might want to see what this tube does.
Not sure I'm reading this right. You wouldn't be taking the pic from the top looking down, so the distance for your 30 or 60mm would be more likely 10-14" through the glass.


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post #24 of 25 (permalink) Old 09-24-2020, 06:44 PM
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Not sure I'm reading this right. You wouldn't be taking the pic from the top looking down, so the distance for your 30 or 60mm would be more likely 10-14" through the glass.
You could be taking a picture from top looking down depending on what angle you want. I guess the side shots are much more often taken though.
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post #25 of 25 (permalink) Old 09-24-2020, 08:06 PM
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You could be taking a picture from top looking down depending on what angle you want. I guess the side shots are much more often taken though.
Yeah, unless you have some prized Koi in your setup, pretty much all shots will be taken through the glass.


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