In The World of Smooch - Page 2 - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #16 of 162 (permalink) Old 06-26-2016, 12:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smooch View Post
The Blues Brothers are becoming less camera shy. Was able to catch this picture with the 50mm instead of using the telephoto lens.
Is that the 50mm 1.8? What SS is that pic taken at?
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post #17 of 162 (permalink) Old 06-26-2016, 12:54 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by houseofcards View Post
Is that the 50mm 1.8? What SS is that pic taken at?
It's a 1.4. I didn't like the cheap feeling of the 1.8 and wasn't willing to spend lots of cash on a 1.2.

What is SS?
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post #18 of 162 (permalink) Old 06-26-2016, 01:21 AM
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The 1.4 is a good lens. I was just abbreviating shutter speed with the SS.
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post #19 of 162 (permalink) Old 06-26-2016, 01:27 AM Thread Starter
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1/30
iso: 800
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post #20 of 162 (permalink) Old 06-26-2016, 12:01 PM Thread Starter
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Left side: 10 gallon
Right side: 29 gallon

According to the API chart, the 10 gallon is now in the 5 ppm range. The 29 gallon is now in the 10 ppm range.

Second picture is from yesterday. The boys were feeling photogenic so I took advantage of it.
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post #21 of 162 (permalink) Old 06-26-2016, 01:25 PM
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1/30
iso: 800
That's a pretty good shot for 1/30. I guess you didn't have enough light to use faster shutter and keep ISO where it was. I find most of my better shots of fish are at 1/160 or faster.
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post #22 of 162 (permalink) Old 06-26-2016, 02:23 PM Thread Starter
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I'll have to give that a whirl and see what happens.
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post #23 of 162 (permalink) Old 06-26-2016, 05:12 PM Thread Starter
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I should be doing something constructive...

Playing around with shutter speeds. My subject is feeling salty today.

Shutter speed: 160
ISO: 800
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post #24 of 162 (permalink) Old 06-27-2016, 02:43 AM
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Nice shot! Is that 1/160 and wide open (F1.4)? Did you lighten in post. That's a good lens, but the minimum shooting distance is probably over a foot, so you can't get that close.
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post #25 of 162 (permalink) Old 06-27-2016, 02:52 AM Thread Starter
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Yes and thanks.

I can't get real close anyway as most of my fish don't like it. The rams are doing great in terms of adjusting to room activity and me being around / have my hands in the tank, ect... so that makes me happy.

I did lighten, but it wasn't much. I tried pushing the ISO up a little more and the picture came out overexposed and just looked like crap. I'd rather underexpose and fix it then overexpose and be left with headache. It isn't that I can't deal with overexposure, it's just not my idea of a good time.
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post #26 of 162 (permalink) Old 06-27-2016, 11:08 AM Thread Starter
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Time to test the phosphates.

Things are moving in the right direction. Within the next day or two I should be able to pull the Phosguard from the 10 gallon assuming it doesn't exhaust first. The goal is not to get to zero. I want it to get to the 2.0 - 1.5 range.

The 29 is also moving in the right direction although it is going to take longer. When I started, the color was almost purple and the API chart doesn't read that high.

I mixed 2 batches of new ferts the other day. Neither batch has nitrates added as the more I thought about it, the more dumb it seemed to add them when I already have nitrates in my water. I tested all 3 tanks earlier and what do you know, nitrates are coming down because they are being used.

As for phosphates, one batch has them added, the other does not. The phosphate free stuff is for the 10 and 29, while the batch with phosphates is for the 5.5 gallon. Instead of adding the suggested 2.9 grams, I added one. This can changed if it needs to be, but for now at least, the benchmark is to have phosphate levels almost exhausted by the time I need to dose again.

Depending on how this phosphate removal goes, I may or may not need to keep the phosphate free batch of ferts around. I don't know if there will be a spike or not, so I'll be holding on to it for a while. If there is no spike, I'll add the ferts to the water I use for the gardens. If there is one, I've already got the issue covered.
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post #27 of 162 (permalink) Old 06-28-2016, 01:07 AM Thread Starter
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Just a update / disclosure post.

I decided to check phosphate levels before going to bed. My fear of having phosphates spike once the Phosguard exhausted came true. I'm losing ground on both tanks, so I've refreshed the Phosguard and we'll see what tomorrow brings. So much for the 4 day thing Seachem talks about on their instructions on the back of the bottle.

While I'm here, the 29 also now has ick. It's not from the phosphates, but I have no idea where it came from. Last thing added to the tank was plants. I added a air stone and have raised the tank temp over a few hours to 86. If that doesn't work, I have Pargard coming tomorrow.

I really need to 'break up' with Seachem....
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post #28 of 162 (permalink) Old 06-28-2016, 10:48 AM Thread Starter
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I emailed Seachem after my last post here. To paraphrase my message to them, I asked them how do I get rid of these phosphates as their own phosphate remover is struggling to get the job done from using another one of their products.

Will post response if and when I get one.
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post #29 of 162 (permalink) Old 06-28-2016, 06:19 PM Thread Starter
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I have yet to get a written response from Seachem, so I called them as I also had a question about using phosphate removers with ParaGuard should heat alone not work. Fish have been acting like cranky children all day, but they ate with their usual vigor so they couldn't feel that bad.

Back to Seachem.

First I was told to do water changes. I explained that I did a 50% water change on Saturday and it didn't make a dent. It was then explained to me that Phosguard removes the least amount of phosphates.

It was then explained to me that there are three other phosphate removers that are more heavy duty. The first being PhosBond which is a step 'higher' than Phoguard, then there is Phosnet which is stronger than the other two.

There is a even stronger one sold in the Aquavitro line called Phosfiltrum. Since no LFS carries the Aquavitro line locally, I won't be trying that. I'm lucky if I can find Prime locally, much less anything from the Aquavitro line.

At this point there is no point in posting daily with phosphate test results as I'm not going to be getting anywhere fast with Phosguard. I'm going to order some Phosnet, then I'll get back to posting daily testing results. It would have been nice to know this little piece of information before, but live and learn.

Picture is a updated version of the one I posted the other day. I wasn't happy with it, so I thought I'd try again.
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post #30 of 162 (permalink) Old 06-29-2016, 04:44 PM Thread Starter
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New day, new tests.

The Seachem Phosphate test kit finally came in as did the PhosNet after paying to have it shipped to me in one day.

Unless somebody can tell me otherwise, I think API has punked me yet again.

The Seachem Phosphate test kit only tests for inorganic phosphates. From left to right: 10 gallon, 29 gallon and 5.5 gallon. The 10 gallon tests just below 2.5 pmm, the 29 tests 2.5 ppm, and the 5.5 gallon tests 1 ppm. This doesn't surprise me as I dosed the tank yesterday.

The API test kits don't show much of a change from yesterday. This begs the question of what exactly API phosphate test kits actually tests for. I tried calling them, but they wanted me to leave a message and they would get back to me in 2 business days. I can't be bothered. I've been through this BS with their nitrate test kit already...

I have added the PhosNet to the 10 and 29 gallon. If anybody opts to use this product at some point, I'd suggest using rubber gloves when you rinse the dust off. I didn't and now my fingers are a weird orange color. It looks like I have jaundice on my hands only.

I'll end this post on a positive note instead of a grumpy one.

The fish in the 29 have dropped all of their ich spots or cysts and all the flashing that was going on has stopped. There wasn't many cysts to begin with and only a few popped up after cranking up the heat. I'm going to leave the heat turned up for the full 10 days as they are tolerating it well.

I will be pre-treating plants regardless of where they come from, from this point forward. I've never had to treat my tanks for anything and I don't like it. A ParaGuard dip should remove any uglies that I don't want in my tank.
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