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post #1 of 100 (permalink) Old 06-30-2009, 01:53 AM Thread Starter
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Ultimate 120

- Ultimate 120 -

Well I picked up the newest addition last friday. So I got busy on the design and reconditioning of the stand.

The Plans for the tank....

- 2 - Nova Extreme T-5 X 4 54w lights - I am going to hang them above the tank, about 6-10 inches....

- Eheim Pro 2 2028 Cansiter filter

- Pressurized CO2

- Substrate - Flourite Black

- I have not figured out my heating solution

- Fully plumbing the tank into the house for easy water changing

Here is a few pics of the partially reconditioned stand. I have put new sides in it, new floor and will have new panels on the doors. I plan on replacing all the hinges and handles to something of a dark color. I also messed up and forgot some before pics. So you can look at the before pics with chads thread here... I will finish the stand this coming weekend...





The Doors-







"For England James?"

Last edited by Scotty; 07-03-2009 at 02:07 AM.
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post #2 of 100 (permalink) Old 06-30-2009, 02:15 AM
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looking like it gonna be a awesome set-up ...please keep us post


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post #3 of 100 (permalink) Old 06-30-2009, 03:47 PM Thread Starter
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Here is the diagram of the plumbing.... Really simple. The washer and dryer are behind the wall that the tank is going on, so I will run the drain pipe to the washer drain, and run the hot/cold from washer to the tank. So a couple holes and PVC pipe and voila, easy a$$ water changes!!!


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post #4 of 100 (permalink) Old 06-30-2009, 04:48 PM
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Sweet! Keep us posted!

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post #5 of 100 (permalink) Old 06-30-2009, 05:21 PM
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love the water change setup... that is what i want to do for my future planted discus tank, what are your stocking plans - plants/fish, theme?

Aqueon 120 gallon community (planted)
ADA 120p - 65 gallon community (planted)
Eclipse system II tall - 30 gallon - mixed community (non planted)
AGA 20 gallon - lake Tanganyika shell dwellers (semi planted)
6.6 gallon nano planted red cherry shrimp (planted)
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post #6 of 100 (permalink) Old 06-30-2009, 06:30 PM Thread Starter
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Everything in my 55 will be moved into this tank. All plants and fish. It will be a long process as I am still working on the stand. So hopefully in a few weeks I will have this up and running!

"For England James?"
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post #7 of 100 (permalink) Old 07-03-2009, 02:20 AM Thread Starter
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Here is the "revised" diagram of the plumbing....

The hot and cold water valves will be "pre-set" to a certain temp. I can start the washer on warm to get the pipes warmed up so there is no "cold start" to the water. I have moved the position of the hot/cold pipes to after the canister. And added a check valve.





I have brought the tank into the house so I can measure the pipes and locations for the holes. Annnddd I wanted to check out how it will look. I think the stand turned out really well. I have about 5 coats of polyurethane on it. I like the placement, but I am still wondering on the lighting. I want to hang the lights about the stand. But I dont want to have wires coming down from the ceiling. So I may build a trellis over the tank to hold the lights. I may put the lights on a pully system so that I will be able to raise and lower when working in the tank. What do you guys think about that?? Here is the updated pics...







Picture of the driftwood my sister got me from Detroit area...I have no idea where.


"For England James?"
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post #8 of 100 (permalink) Old 07-03-2009, 02:53 AM
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the stand looks awesome, that looks like a mopani wood, if you have never used, mopanis are hard/dense wood and readily sink to the bottom

Aqueon 120 gallon community (planted)
ADA 120p - 65 gallon community (planted)
Eclipse system II tall - 30 gallon - mixed community (non planted)
AGA 20 gallon - lake Tanganyika shell dwellers (semi planted)
6.6 gallon nano planted red cherry shrimp (planted)
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post #9 of 100 (permalink) Old 07-03-2009, 03:15 AM
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Great work on the stand! I look forward to the progress.

I assume you have a well since you don't mention carbon filters. If it is, are you using an ion exchange water softener? They introduce sodium ions and strip other minerals. If you have city water, the chemistry has a tendency to change after coming out of the pipes.

Your plan on prewarming the hot water but the cold water will change temperature significantly from summer to winter so keep that in mind. Try T-ing off the water inlet to sample the temp before the fill.

Don't forget to change the outlet to an integrated GFCI behind the tank!
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post #10 of 100 (permalink) Old 07-03-2009, 03:31 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by finfan View Post
the stand looks awesome, that looks like a mopani wood, if you have never used, mopanis are hard/dense wood and readily sink to the bottom

You may be correct, because that little chunk is really heavy. I am still looking for more wood on the hardscape. I have a few chunks in my 55 that is still running that I plan to use in this scape also. Good eye!!

"For England James?"
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post #11 of 100 (permalink) Old 07-03-2009, 03:35 AM Thread Starter
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Great work on the stand! I look forward to the progress.

I assume you have a well since you don't mention carbon filters. If it is, are you using an ion exchange water softener? They introduce sodium ions and strip other minerals. If you have city water, the chemistry has a tendency to change after coming out of the pipes.

Your plan on prewarming the hot water but the cold water will change temperature significantly from summer to winter so keep that in mind. Try T-ing off the water inlet to sample the temp before the fill.

Don't forget to change the outlet to an integrated GFCI behind the tank!

I have put the drawing up so that I can get some info from people who have done this. Now, I am on city water so should I get some sort of filter to run the water through first, if so, what kind and where to buy?? I would like to get tons of tips so I can finalize my drawing soon. Thanks

I thought about putting a faucet underneath the stand so if I every need water for anything, like rinsing or whatever I would have it. Then I would be able to check the temp first before filling the tank.

And good call on the outlet. I would have not even thought about that. Thanks

This is why forums rock, especially this one!!! Thanks for the tips and keep them coming.

"For England James?"
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post #12 of 100 (permalink) Old 07-03-2009, 03:46 AM
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Carbon filters strip the chlorine that makes the fishies float. Again, high flow is your enemy. Carbon filters work by adsorption and do not work at high flow rates. Have you checked your water chemistry before? Check the pH right out of the tap and again several hours later and see if you get a change.

If you are having trouble with the water right out of the tap, consider putting an aging tank for the waterchange water under the tank or in your laundry room, if it fits.
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post #13 of 100 (permalink) Old 07-03-2009, 03:55 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dizguy View Post
Carbon filters strip the chlorine that makes the fishies float. Again, high flow is your enemy. Carbon filters work by adsorption and do not work at high flow rates. Have you checked your water chemistry before? Check the pH right out of the tap and again several hours later and see if you get a change.

If you are having trouble with the water right out of the tap, consider putting an aging tank for the waterchange water under the tank or in your laundry room, if it fits.
This what the plan is.

I have never had a problem with my tap water. I usually do my water change by emptying the 55 about 30-50% every Sunday. Then I turn off the CO2/filter and take a 5gal bucket and proceed to fill it straight up from the tap. Once the tank is full I throw 1 1/2 capfuls of prime in the water and have never had a problem. My house is too small to be able to "age" the water. I was thinking that if I turn my valves and fill the tank back up with the filter/co2 off then It would be in a sense just like how I have been doing it. But I really dont want to take a chance. I have tested my tap water many of times and it always has very good parameters. But I have never "aged" then tested. Maybe I will try that. Thanks again!

"For England James?"
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post #14 of 100 (permalink) Old 07-03-2009, 04:43 AM
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It is a better practice to treat it before putting it in. It may not be killing your fish right away but may lead to more progressive problems. The chlorine could also adversely affect your biological filtration. At the very least you should look at activated carbon filtration.
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post #15 of 100 (permalink) Old 07-03-2009, 06:08 AM
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Have you considered using a drip system for water changing rather than straight up fills and drains? This would require an overflow drilled in the tank plumbed into your house drain but is pretty convenient.

Right now I am dripping 1.5GPH into a 70G with no issues of chlorine. The drip system is a combo of Home Depot parts and drippers from dripworks.com.

You can use a drip rate calculator to determine how much water you are actually changing and then decide how much you want to drip in. Additionally, you could put a carbon filter onto the drip system if you are still worried about chlorine. This is the final setup I am planning for a 250G display tank. This method allows for more consistent water chemistry and makes it even less work than the system you are proposing. Will cost you about $25 more but IMO well worth it.
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