Just a warning I speak freely so I hope I dont offend anyone
.... So now thats outa the way I guess I gota start somewhere so I'll start with my name which is Eric. I got into this hobby a few years back with my 29 gallon tall. I killed all of my fish a few times from being a rookie so i decided to start taking this hobby thing a little more seriously. So that lead me to this forum. My dad in a way also got me into this hobby, even though his techniques are very oldschool hes pretty good with pvc. Here is a picture of his koi pond in his back yard.
Okay so back to my tank, for starters it's a standard 180 gallon(6x2x2
) TruVu w/ dual overflows, acrylic fish tank. I bought it with the stand off of craigs list for about 300 bucks (talked him down from 450
). The stand needed alot of work so me and my pops flipped it out with some trim. We sanded off the old paint and recoated it with like 5 coats of lacquor and added some custom wood doors. Also most importantly installed some nice hardware (silent non-slamming
you can pull the doors off easily and reattach them too for easy maintenance. Also added lots of wood glue with some plywood for a little more stability, the old stand had some particle board sections.
PLUMBING / FILTRATION
To get my water from tank to my filter (standard wet/dry with bio balls and some filtration media
). I used the Durso pipe system
as my strainer. It's so quiet and im very glad I went with this setup. I'm very happy the people on this forum pointed me in that direction. Not only is it super quiet but I get really good suction from it.
My durso pipes are made of, and I'm quoting Richard Durso with this list,
"9 - Toothpick sized hole drilled into End-Cap (8) or use an air-valve.
8 - End-Cap.
7 - Small PVC pipe used to connect End-Cap to Tee Fitting.
6 - Street-Ell. This connects to the Tee fitting. This is the water intake for the stand pipe. The water level should be somewhere around middle of the Steel-Ell if constructed correctly. If slightly higher it will not be a problem. If water level is at the opening of the Steet-Ell you will get a sucking noise. Make hole in End-Cap (9) larger. If you have trouble getting it all to fit in the overflow box, a ¾ elbow should fit snug directly in the 1' tee opening.
5 - Tee fitting. This connects the End-Cap assembly and Intake (Street-Ell) to the stand pipe itself. You'll want to connect the Tee to the standpipe using plumbers tape. This will allow you to remove the Tee fitting if you need to make the stand pipe shorter.
4 - Stand pipe. This should be wider than the bulkhead opening. For a 1 inch bulkhead use a 1 ¼ or 1 ½ diameter PVC pipe. All other fittings used are based on the diameter of this PVC pipe needed.
3 - Reducer Bushing. This connects the stand pipe to the threaded male adapter. If you use 1 ½ inch diameter PVC pipe and you use a 1 inch threaded male adapter, then you need a 1 ½ to 1 inch reducer bushing. (A small section of PVC pipe may be needed to link this to the male adapter below)
2 - Threaded male adapter. This attaches the entire stand pipe assembly to the bulkhead. If your bulkhead is not threaded, then this is not needed. The reducer bushing could be attached directly to the bulkhead. Be sure to use plumbers tape on the threads before screwing into bulkhead. This will help keep a water tight seal.
1 - Bulkhead. This is the opening in the bottom of your overflow chamber where water drains to the sump."
The water flows from my Durso setup into my Wet/dry filter
once the water is in my wet/dry filter
it then trickles through the bioballs. From there it gets sucked into my pump (Reeflow Dart
) it travels through 2" pvc into the pump and 1.5" out.
It stays at 1.5" untill it T's at the top then it gets split to each side of the tank at 1". Each side has valves to controll the return flow. I also left a T in the middle to add my co² later on.