UPDATE: All is done. Ready for the fish move.
The molding around the bottom makes all the difference in the world.
UPDATE: Hood is done. It has been painted but I did not get a proper Picture of it all painted.
#1. I made a frame that outlined the tank, return line, and Overflow box with some plastic molding.
I I lined the back and sides in 1 X 8. Cutting and dremeling the left side for the Overflow box was fun.
I discovered the light that i use for the goldfish tank will fit perfectly and give me 2.1 WPG!
Added this lovely door and made sure the light fit.
#5: Sanded, sealed the seams, primed & painted it all. Currently drying.
UPDATE: Plumbing is done!
Fail safe durso stand pipe:
Stops it from sucking in too much air and making noise. If the water is rising too fast (which it shouldn't unless there is a problem) the water covers the ends of the blue air tubes. The air tubes normally stop it from siphoning down water at a rate of 1500 GPH by allowing air in which breaks the siphon. However if the water rises too far the tubes get covered and the air is blocked. Thus it siphons really fast and flushes the box.
Bubble & Water Brake:
I call it the "splash box". 1.5" pipe enters the top of the 3" pipe. that pipe has holes in the sides. at the end there is a cap. the mixture of water and anti-spihone air smashes into that and slows down from its 3' fall. from there it goes down to a reduced 2" and then 1.5" pipe and ball valve (submerged). Extra air and water go out the 2" split which is not submerged. Any extra, extra air goes out the blue tube. It is much quieter than just letting a pipe dangle above the sump water surface and stops mostly all pressure from falling water. It also stops all the air bubbles rising up from making he top of the water look like a hot tub with the jets on.
Anti-siphon return pipe:
Air is let in the top and stops it form siphoning. Still needs a spray bar or something.
This sheet of glass, which will soon have a rough plastic surface, will be blasted with 4 CFL (of 400w equivalence) lights through 0.5" of water. Thus a lot of light for a 19" X 12" area. it will get light for 18 hours a day while the main lights are off. Basically it will be a culturing spot for algae of all sorts. This well fed fast growing well light algae home will help turn NO3 and PO4? into something that is easily scraped off into the trash can every week. and out compete any algae growing anywhere else in the tank.
OLD: My goldfish tank used to be stunning and such. But all buy 1 of my huge goldfish died suddenly and I got real discouraged a while ago. Now I am tired of it looking bad in its self sustaining over grown with plants look. So I am gonna upgrade their home.
Current look. The original giant goldfish and a newer black oranda friend.
DIY Prototype/temporary till other home is made Algae scrubber for viability testing
I am tanking an old tank (55 gallon) and making it into a sump or sorts.
I made some Filter material boxes.
Some PVC board (expensive stuff) with stainless screws and siliconeed seams. Then some mesh clamped and cilioned in palce by more PVC board.
Does anyone know the viability of a DSB for freshwater?
If It is good I have prepared a place for one in the sump.
I made this bag of window screen. I cut it right so I could over lap a part and then just slide silicone over it while tapped to a cardboardbox. It worked well. Very strong & almost seamless.
Pictures of DSB area.
It will be flush to the glass when filled.
Done with the sump.