I'd let those red stems over grow another 10 cm along the surface before hacking them back. Then a good thick bunch and another week or so, it should be ready.
Yupp, they usually cover almost the whole surface at the end of week so I need to hack them down. Often I uproot them and only keep the best looking and thickest stems. When the plain L. inclinata reaches the surface it's growth rate is incredible.
How did you tie the Anubias?
I didn't, I try to find cracks/places where I can squeeze/pin the roots in. Often it looks more realistic since they fit in places where they might have got stuck in real life so to say.
Wow, I pulled up the 1920p of each of your photos. BEAUTIFUL!!!!!!
And your photos seem so crisp! What camera are you using?
Thanks =) It's a Canon 40d. The overview pictures of the tank I use the Sigma 10-20mm. It distorts the perspective if used at 10mm but the tank looks much bigger. For the macros I use the very sharp Canon 100mm f2,8 USM Macro without flash. I usually like a bit of noise/grain in photographs so I can use like ISO 400-800 and keep relatively fast shutter speeds.
But the 40d 6 fps helps alot also when trying to catch fast fish like the CPD. I can in just a matter of minutes produce dozens of pictures and even if the shutter sometimes hit very long shutterspeeds I can get one or two very sharp pictures anyway.
I attribute most of the sharpness to Adobe Camera RAW (ACR). I've only been shooting RAW for a year or so. Before I thought it was basically a failed photo if you had to sharpen the photo, but I had to reassess that notion. Canon uses quite heavy antialising to avaid moire. That means photos "out of the box" isn't pixelsharp. They actually most often feels all to soft/unsharp. When I started to raise the sharpness to almost 100 in ACR and also raised the detail to 60-90 the pictures all of a sudden popped with all kinds of cool details you couldn't see without raiseing these parameters.
It's still considered "not good" to add sharpness as the first thing you do when developing pictures but for those having trouble getting the razor sharp pictures I can really recommend it. When I'm finished in ACR I size down the original picture with sharper bicubic filtering keeping the details.
You all can see exactly *everything* I have done while developing each of the above pictures by exchanging ../size/.. at the end of the URL:s with ../meta The information about the first picture for example looks like this: http://www.flickr.com/photos/defdac/3383345388/meta/
Wierd things you will notice is hue-adjustments per color, negative vibrance levels and so on. Canon have, what I think, a completely ugly take on greens. Canon greens is most often yellowish compared to Nikon that has much more vibrant greens. You can fix this by shiften the green hue:s up a bit.
You will probably be a bit stumped how slow shutter speeds I have. I'm quite steady-handed but I also always fire away at least 3 consecutive shots where one in the series often is sharp.