10 Gallon planted- starting up - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #1 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-22-2014, 04:44 PM Thread Starter
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10 Gallon planted- starting up

Hello!

starting a 10 gallon planted for my desk at work, and also to solidify some concepts from my first attempt with a 29 Gallon tank at home (currently in a holding pattern).

I'd like to solicit some advice, if I could? I'm reading up on galaxy rasbora/CPD, i'd really like to have them in my 10 gallon. I've done some reading up on them, they seem to like a well planted tank, and likely won't need much in the way of heating for the tank. Would rockwork be preferred, or driftwood? resource I found seems to indicate a PH of pH 6.5-7.5, which seems like some leeway, and I know driftwood might reduce/acidify PH, but not sure if anyone has some anecdotal experience with them.

As far as lighting for a 10 gallon planted, i want to swap the two incandescents for daylight CFLs, in a tank this size, what will that limit me to, plantwise? are there any fixtures that might work for 10 gallon plantings? I'd like to keep a lid on the tank, but I could probably find an aqueon glass top instead of the existing stock hood, and open up possibilities for different fixtures if need be, or fiscally reasonable?

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post #2 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-23-2014, 03:30 AM Thread Starter
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-Picked up my substrate, caribsea floramax. Anyone have positive or negative experiences here? Should I cap it with sand? I read somewhere I can "supercharge" it by adding root tabs as well. I wasn't initially planning on doing CO2, so not sure if that's overkill...

-Planning on twin 23W CFL 6500k bulbs, for 46w total overhead light. Moderate/medium amount of light.

Would galaxy rasbora prefer a darker substrate? Does anyone have any advice on driftwood vs rock work for them?

Also, I was debating adding shrimp as well. Also curious if anyone has kept them in combination with galaxy rasbora/CPD.
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post #3 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-23-2014, 05:05 AM
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I am not familiar with the substrate but 10 g is not impossible to produce a lush growth. I've raised CPDs in a 10 G and they are pretty shy fish. It took them months to get used to me watching the tank and even at that point they still hid as soon as someone approached the tank.

I would first focus on the setup for the plants. If you want the best growth then going for high light + c02 is the best. A 10 G dutch is very possible with that setup. I've done it with a 5 gallon and it is awesome to see an aquatic garden in a small package.

My first suggestion is to finalize the light choice because it will determine the rest of the equipment and the type of plants you can grow.


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post #4 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-23-2014, 07:05 AM
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The standard tank hood which takes incandescent bulbs(s) can use mini CFL bulbs but use the 13W ones as the 23W ones will melt it.
The two 13W bulbs will provide enough light for low light and some med light plants.
Other than that where you get to keep your "hood" you can get a glass top and get a Finnex "Stingray" which is cheap and a good low/med plant light.
But not saying that on exp but rather on feedback from owners of it.
Don't concern your self about if they like it. At least it's not white sand.
They will eat any baby shrimp and any predator type fish(almost anything but Mollies and Oto's)can/will learn that if they attack a shrimp when it's molting they can kill and eat it.
Finding plants which are in proportion to the tank...now that is a new ball game. I have 2 of those so this IS from exp.
Any plant(check the light requirements first)labeled "mini" may work.
Especially on Pellia or Fissidens look for the mini.
People want higher light but want to put low light plants in it.
Unless you want to clean the glass every few days I'd stick/w either of the lights I mentioned.
If that is a wall to the right of the tank and you can move it farther towards it, an HOB filter on that end would give you a good current in there that will help keep out any algae. This(according to reviews on here)
has a good life span and works well. You can use whatever Bio-media you want in it and I would suggest Matrix.
http://www.petmountain.com/product/a...er-filter.html
http://www.petmountain.com/product/a...bio-media.html
Don't waste money on regular root tabs. Get the Osmocote+ capsules from someone(two or three on here sell them).
https://www.plantedtank.net/forums/sh...ght=back+black
These are complete ferts and last two to three months. Only use one every 5" down the center and try to get them all the way to the bottom.

BTW: Fish can adapt to most any PH and yours is fine. Unless you get a large piece of driftwood you won't bother the fish as it will only slightly change the PH.
What you don't want to do is bounce the PH up and down by using one of the PH chemicals to force it to be a certain level.
https://www.plantedtank.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=170324

The shortest distance between any two points is a straight line...in the opposite direction...

Last edited by Raymond S.; 11-23-2014 at 07:28 AM. Reason: BTW:
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post #5 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-23-2014, 02:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Raymond S. View Post
Other than that where you get to keep your "hood" you can get a glass top and get a Finnex "Stingray"
Looks like the Finnex Stingray clips on a topless tank.

If you want to upgrade your lights and are keeping it low tech here are 2-
SolarMaxHE T5 Single Strip 10000K 20in 29.75
Brightwell LED $30. (shipping free)

Here is a nice looking 10G tank using 2 13 watt fluorescents at 6700k.

Also look at these 2 low tech threads for ideas
plantedtank low-tech-tank-show-tell
aquaticquotient Low-tech-(non-CO2)-tanks

Last edited by Hilde; 11-23-2014 at 02:27 PM. Reason: added text
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post #6 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-23-2014, 06:08 PM Thread Starter
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man, theres some great responses! thank you, the guidance is invaluable!

PortalMasteryRy:

thats a good point you make, I want to get it established with plants. I think i might start low tech, with a medium/moderate amount of light, and upgrade the lights and add co2 in a few months. its at work, so i want to keep the footprint somewhat modest, but there is a cubby below the tank that i can fish the lines down to, to keep it nice and tidy, but I think it will happen eventually!

Raymond S.-

thanks for the advice, I didn't know the cfls would get that hot, its got a heat shield/reflector, and they are pretty good size incandescents in there, maybe theres an LED growbulb with the right intensity and size, i will check that option out i guess as well.

you also hit the nail right on the head, finding the plants that will fit the tank. i want to get some good fill/bushy look, but that might be a challenge. i think i can probably do java fern too, i hear it can be slow growing

Hilde:

thanks for the resources, thats awesome! the 20 in strip t5, will 10000K work for growth of plants? I've been staying in the 5000-6700K range because i thought thats where I needed to be.

also, for the hardscape, someone was kind enough to give me some old aquarium rocks, I'm not sure that they would work or not, they don't seen reactive to vinegar, I think they are legit aquarium rocks. anyone want to take a look? i was thinking of capping the floramax with sand, since I don't know if I want the pure black substrate, i was hoping for something a bit more natural, that might give good contrast with the CPD and plants? I'm open to any arrangement ideas, a few of the rocks are really big, and I think theres some slate pieces in the bucket, if you think more photos/scale is necessary, I'd be happy to add more pics
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post #7 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-23-2014, 09:37 PM
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The Floramax is just crushed up lava rock and is completely inert. I use it as a cap for miracle gro organic choice potting mix in my 90g. It's worked for me but it is very hard to plant if it is 1 to 2 inches deep. If you use it make sure it's 3 to 4 inches deep. When you plant in soil it creates a suction when the plants are placed. With Floramax you're just hoping that enough weight from the crushed rock is going to hold the plants in place so they tend to float out a lot more. If you cap with sand it will just sink to the bottom and the Floramax will raise to the top. Now it wont do this immediately but over time it will swap. I would just go with the sand and tabs, it would make life a lot easier

Brandon

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Last edited by BHolmes; 11-23-2014 at 09:39 PM. Reason: ...
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post #8 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-24-2014, 01:54 AM Thread Starter
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BHolmes thanks for the input! I wasn't sure how I felt about the miracle grow organic, sounds like a lot of people are using it, I might have to give it a shot.

Allright, looks like it's plants and maybe some rock shaping left for the moment. I'd love input if anyone has some suggestions. More pics to follow soon!
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post #9 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-26-2014, 01:40 AM Thread Starter
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Ok. So still working out some of the hardscape details, have some rocks I'm trying to figure out. Went ahead and am going to go ahead and get started dropping the substrate, picked up a couple types of Cryptocoryne at petsmart, just working on the osmocote plus root tabs suggested, and having a hard time picking up daylight bulbs actually! They seem to be sold out everywhere I go :/

The plants are apt to melt since they've probably never been under h2o, right?
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post #10 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-26-2014, 01:56 AM
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They are not suppose to melt if the water parameters are good. I've grown a couple of these "plants in a bag" and I've yet to see them melt after being planted.

I actually grew the remainder of the "tropica" plant as a floating plant so I have maybe a dozen plantings floating in my grow tank. It actually grew 3x the original size and is rooting.


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post #11 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-26-2014, 02:09 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks! I like the sound of it!

Osmocote plus might be hard to come by, any other recommendations for root tabs?
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post #12 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-26-2014, 01:37 PM
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Osmocote+ capsules.
https://www.plantedtank.net/forums/sh...ght=back+black

The shortest distance between any two points is a straight line...in the opposite direction...
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post #13 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-26-2014, 04:03 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the link! I'd be interested in cutting the middle man out and making my own, and also for not having to wait for something to ship, looking locally in the to see if I can make my own

So dropped the substrate in. I haven't a plan for the rocks, but they are pretty big so I might pass on them for the time being, and look for some smooth river rocks/pebbles.

For plants, I know the crypts for sure, I'd love some tips on the placement? Also getting advice to try "sunset hygrophilia"?

Any thoughts on layout for these plants? I know rows aren't "natural", and I've read that x patterns are a bit more preferred for aesthetics. How should I bunch these? Each package has what looks to be three plants in it.

Any guidance for placement would be appreciated!

Bump:
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post #14 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-26-2014, 04:18 PM Thread Starter
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Here's the layout so far for the substrate:
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post #15 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-26-2014, 04:36 PM Thread Starter
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ok, heres what I think so far, unless it looks too balanced? also, what would look good in between both clumps? what would make good foreground interest? a cluster of river rocks, or driftwood, I like both, but I'd be eager to get some feedback, on the aesthetics, please
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