"Tous ces titres ?trangers sont stupides " 110L [I need your help with algae] - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #1 of 144 (permalink) Old 08-23-2007, 02:54 AM Thread Starter
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"Tous ces titres ťtrangers sont stupides " 110L [I need your help with algae]

I have kept fish now for five years, and this is my first stab at properly keeping plants. This is starting out a low tech low budget 29 gallon tank, with future plans of better CO2, substrate, and filtration. Tank specs can be seen on my profile. I mostly wanted this journal for pictures I'm certainly not a photographer, and if you have any comments or suggestions on my camera using abilities, please feel free to pitch in.

Tank on 08.19.07


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Last edited by eyebeatbadgers; 12-03-2009 at 10:11 PM.
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post #2 of 144 (permalink) Old 08-23-2007, 07:02 AM
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Hi and welcome.

I will start of with suggestions, as that is what you asked for.
One point, both pieces of wood are the same height, same sistance from the front and sides of the tank, and the same style (vertical). Try and angle them a little, 25 degrees, put one deeper into the substrate, moving one back further and one font a little (I mean a little) or closer to the centre. With atank you don't want it to be symetrical. It is not pleasing to the eyes. You want differences, natural, etc.

One thing you will find with a 29 gallon tank is that you would rather have small thin pieces of wood then large thick pieces. It takes up less space in the tank and makes it feel bigger, plus adds more dimensions to the tank. Bigger chunks of wood are usually used in bigger tanks and covered with moss to soften them. like this:



130 watts of light (2 * 65) is a lot for a 29 gallon tank. I am running this tank with 48 watts of light 8 hours a day and growth is very quick.

With high light like you have you might run into problems with algea. Usually high light drives the demand for CO2 and fertilizers. Since you are not using pressurized CO2 and DIY Co2 is usually inconsistant, you will find that plants growth will be affected and algea will develop. Suggestion, half the lights until you get CO2 and a proper dosing strategy.

Your filter, HOB, though not idea, is not really a problem. It will work well, just keep water level high so there is not a lot of surface movement and loss of the little CO2.

Substrate is not a problem. Using ADA Aqua Soil or better substrate only helps at the beginning, with the inital setup and growth, though after the tank matures and growth has settled, it makes no difference. and with moving plants around and rearranging the tank, standard sand is a lot easier and less messy to work with.

You will have more problems with changing the substrate later on then keeping what you have as with time even an inert substate will become a mature and a fetilizer and bioloigal filtration system for the tank, as waste and bacterial develop and are broken down in the substrate.

The most important will be your fertilizing schedule through the water column. Suggestion of PPS-Pro with a simple dosing of:

Bottle 1
90ml of water with
5g K2So4
6g KNO3
1g KH2PO4
4g MgSO4

Bottle 2
90ml of water with
7g Plantex CSM+B

Recommended dose is 1 ml of each solution in 10 gallon aquarium every day before lights go on. So that would be 3 ml daily, so the bottles would last you 1 month each. Very cheap, at approx 1 dollar a month total cost.


Best of luck. Just play with the drift wood until you get it a little different, not so similiar on each side. Try moving your rocks just of center as well, to the left.
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post #3 of 144 (permalink) Old 08-23-2007, 06:56 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah, 130 W is super overkill for my needs. I am running one light for an eight hour photoperiod right now, and algae is minimal. I agree with your aquascaping ideas, this is my first go round with it, and a little tweaking will really bring this tank to life. Thanks for the input !! Anyone else got some ideas for me ????


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Last edited by eyebeatbadgers; 08-23-2007 at 10:05 PM.
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post #4 of 144 (permalink) Old 08-29-2007, 02:32 AM
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I think this has potential! One thing I noticed is that it looks like your plant in the back, just to the left of the right piece of driftwood (it looks like moneywort to me) should be separated instead of clumped together. It will grow much better once you separate it and trim off the dead ends I second tcampbell's suggestion about moving the driftwood. I think that once this fills in it will look nice Good luck!
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post #5 of 144 (permalink) Old 08-29-2007, 07:28 PM Thread Starter
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Here's a photo today.



The tank is a bit dirty, but I've rearranged a few plants a bit. Still a mess as far as aquascaping is concerned, but the plants seem to be growing pretty well. I've upped the amount of CO2 being added (added another bottle) yesterday, and hope to see more plant growth and less algae growth. The water sprite is growing some BBA, not surprisingly, little CO2 + lots of light = trimming infected leaves. Still avoiding moving the driftwood, it's gonna make a mess. The driftwood is currently mounted on a rock because they were floaters when I added them to the tank. Perhaps they'll sink now that they've been submerged for a month. Both pieces of wood are growing some rather strange algae, white in color, similar to BBA in structure. It isn't growing quickly, but is hard to remove. I may decide to use rocks instead of driftwood in the future. As always, more comments and suggestions are always welcome.


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post #6 of 144 (permalink) Old 08-29-2007, 07:32 PM
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the white stuff might be mold not algae and can happen on pieces of wood that are not good to have submerged
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post #7 of 144 (permalink) Old 08-29-2007, 07:42 PM Thread Starter
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I was afraid of that. The wood itself is soft enough to scrape off with my fingernail. Would it be best to take the wood out? I got this wood from a local lake, not a pet store ( That crap's expensive around here !!!)


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post #8 of 144 (permalink) Old 08-29-2007, 09:17 PM Thread Starter
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I suppose I'll answer my own question. Should have researched it before I asked

https://www.plantedtank.net/forums/ge...driftwood.html
Quote:
What's that fuzz on my driftwood?

Quite often after driftwood is added to an aquarium, a white almost transparent fuzz will grow on it. This fuzz can appear several weeks to several months after the driftwood is added to the aquarium. Popular thinking is this fuzz is either a fungus or a mold. Either way it's harmless, unfortunately it's not pleasing to look at. Some people have had luck just brushing it off. Others have had luck by introducing algae eating fish, as they will actually eat it. Neither technique will guarantee preventing this fuzz from recurring. The important thing is to have faith, as it will eventually disappear.


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post #9 of 144 (permalink) Old 08-31-2007, 01:48 AM Thread Starter
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Minor Update

Today was water change day. I decided to move the driftwood before the water change. One thing leads to another and I begin to wonder if the driftwood will sink now that it has been under water for a month. Surely, right? Eh, no. So now the piece on the right is a floater!! I'd like to go to just one piece of driftwood, instead of two, since they are so similar, having the one just to the left of center a few inches to the right of where the left piece is now. However, I like the floating piece better than the other piece because the floating piece has a cool place for the Java fern and moss to grow, and both are doing pretty well there. Ugh. So for right now I've got the floater wedged in the corner of the tank. And I've spread out the red ludwigia. There were a LOT of stems in that bunch. The bottom leaves were beginning to melt (no big surprise there) so I broke up the bunch. Now the tank is just a mess of floating driftwood and random stem plants. Maybe some order will come about the tank soon.



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post #10 of 144 (permalink) Old 08-31-2007, 02:12 AM
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maybe lean the wood against the tank. Straight vertical things seem unnatural like a building.


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post #11 of 144 (permalink) Old 08-31-2007, 09:27 PM Thread Starter
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My original intent with this type of driftwood was to look a bit like an underwater swamp, with a few stumps sticking straight up.


However, this idea played out much better in my head. This wood floats, with amazing amounts of buoyancy. Leaning it isn't going to work, look at the piece on the right. Until I find some better driftwood, or this crap I've got sinks, it's gotta be vertical.


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post #12 of 144 (permalink) Old 09-30-2007, 08:22 PM Thread Starter
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Here is a pic after 40ish days. Growth in this tank has been phenomenal. I was trimming about 6 inches a week from the rotala before I reduced my photoperiod. Algae has been minimal, but water has been hazy. It looks like a bacterial bloom, but has persisted for about 2 weeks now. I am suspecting it is actually green water, but not exhibiting the usual green color. I am planning on a 3 day black out starting tomorrow to see if this will clear the water. I also suspect the filter (stock HOB) is insufficient and hope to replace it with a Rena XP2 in the next few weeks.



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post #13 of 144 (permalink) Old 10-01-2007, 08:00 PM
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Wow! That's some serious growth!

~Amanda~

54g Corner Bowfront Planted, 2x24w T5HO
220g Mixed Reef
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post #14 of 144 (permalink) Old 10-01-2007, 10:13 PM Thread Starter
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I agree. I never imagined that plants could grow so fast. Lots of people over complicate planted aquaria unnecessarily. Good steady CO2, proper fertilization ( I use EI method) and quality lighting is all you need. I don't use overpriced ADA soils, or fancy ADA diffusers ( I use limewood). My fertilizers aren't given some silly name like "brighty K". Those things are all nice and undeniably beautiful, but not needed.

Lighting is the throttle behind growth. The only thing that changed between the tank that you see on 8-30 and 9-30 is 1 month's time, and I went from 65 watts to 130 watts ( I also upped CO2 a bit to compensate). While seeing your plants grow out that fast and fill up your tank is fun, the trimming is a nightmare. So, I now run only one bulb for 3 hours, and both bulbs for 3 additional hours. Growth has diminished greatly. I still get pearling after the 3rd hour. Algae is almost nonexistent. Couldn't ask for more.

Now if I can just keep some shrimp alive I'll be happy.


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post #15 of 144 (permalink) Old 02-08-2008, 06:18 PM Thread Starter
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It's been about three months since my last update. The rotala background grew too dense, and had lots of roots on the bottom half of the stems exposed, so I topped about six inches and replanted just those, throwing away the bottom half. The marselia minuta foreground had also become overgrown, growing up the sides of the glass and held a lot of hair algae. I ripped it up, kept a few healthy runners and replanted just those. I am growing dwarf hairgrass on the left and right side of the foreground, just to see how it looks. I'd like to add some different plants in the background to break up the rotala, any suggestions?



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