Beneath the tank in the fishroom lies the life support for the tank. A 50g sump is central in this system and flows approximately 1,000gph. That flow is provided via a Pan World 100PX-X flow-rated pump pushing through a Georg Fisher check valve and splitting into 2x 3/4" Loc-Line returns, each terminating near the far ends of the tank. The water drains back into the sump through two corner overflow boxes with Durso standpipes. Each overflow box has the return line and closed loop plumbing passing through its walls. All of the plumbing throughout the system includes an abundance of ball valves and unions to allow for easy adjustments and cleanings.
A 200W Ebo Jager heater is placed in the sump, though it's not often in use, as the ambient room temperature and heat from the metal halide lighting keeps the temperature fairly stable in the upper-70's range.
This sump was originally constructed as a reef sump and came equipped with a 12g chamber to serve as a refugium. My plan is to use this area for plant growout and possibly keep a breeding pair of German Blue Rams.
Also beneath the tank is a CO2 closed loop powered by a Pan World 40PX pressure-rated pump that flows through an Aqua Medic 1000 CO2 reactor and fed CO2 from a 20 lb. tank with a Milwaukee CO2 regulator. With the restrictions of 1/2" tubing and a slight closure of the pump's ball valve, this loop pushes around 250gph and terminates in an open area of the tank where the discharge water is easily distributed throughout the tank. pH is measured by a Pinpoint pH monitor.
With a relatively small return pump area in the sump, an auto topoff system is a must. I installed a Tunze Osmolator from the previous reef setup to draw water from a 20g resevoir located under the tank. Topoff water is 100%RO/DI.
I wanted to make water changes easy on this tank, so I plumbed in a true union ball valve to the intake side of the closed loop that will allow me to attach a garden hose, open a valve, and easily drain the tank. A 44g Rubbermaid Brute trashcan sits next to the tank circulating freshly-mixed water for water changes. I devised a system using ball valves and other PVC parts attached to a Mag 7 pump that allows me to turn two valves and the water in this vessel stops circulating and instead gets pumped directly into the tank. This trash can is the largest I have space available for, which means water changes will come a little more frequently, hence a simple system to prevent me from slacking on water changes.
Other than the lighting, all of the equipment on the tank is powered through a switchable DJ power station mounted under the stand near the pH monitor and Osmolator controller. It's wonderful having easy access to the power of everything running the tank!
Lighting is provided by 3x175W metal halide lamps mounted about 12" above the surface of the water. The lamps are all XM 10,000K and are each mounted in a large parabolic reflector. The ballasts are located on shelving adjacent to the tank and create minimal heat in the tank room.
Here are a few pictures from behind the scenes: