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post #106 of 128 (permalink) Old 02-15-2020, 11:34 PM
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Wow the tank is looking great!

Love the colors with the new light.

Very well done and getting better all the time.

Nice work!!


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post #107 of 128 (permalink) Old 02-16-2020, 12:28 AM Thread Starter
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Wow the tank is looking great!



Love the colors with the new light.



Very well done and getting better all the time.



Nice work!!


Quote:
Originally Posted by burr740 View Post
Bot that light made a big difference, looks good both ways


Any ideas on GSA?

Phosphate measured at 5ppm before water change.

Dosing 3x per week:
KNO3 4 ppm
K2PO4 2 ppm
Alternating with micros 3x per week, very close to Joeís last post, just with about 40% more B (measuring error).

CA tested 35 ppm
Mg calculated 13.5 ppm

W/C weekly 60%
Clean my canister every 2 weeks.

My other tank only difference is larger 40g, has lower light levels and itís a dirted tank, though the dirt is more than 2 years old and Iíve removed quite a bit of it just through siphoning, when I moved and had to remove substrate to move the tank, and from removing massive amounts of crypts. Fish stocking is much higher in the larger tank.

Dosing levels and maintenance are exactly the same. Both CO2 systems are on pH controllers.




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post #108 of 128 (permalink) Old 02-16-2020, 01:17 AM
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Not really sure on the GSA. Its almost certainly fert related though, an imbalance somewhere. Most likely macros but I'd still fix that B overdose soon. Something has the plants a little unhappy, even if you can tell it, and it could very well be that extra B. There's fine line between just right and too much where B is concerned

Everything looks pretty good to on paper to me except NO3 is kinda low compared to other stuff. Maybe try 5 ppm doses, that'd be 15/week vs 12.

Raising PO4 might make it go away even though it looks like there's plenty. But if you try that I'd raise NO3 first or at the same time because you're already dosing 2:1 NO3:PO4, not that a certain ratio is critical but you do want to stay in a favorable range


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post #109 of 128 (permalink) Old 02-16-2020, 01:18 AM
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Could be many things.

You said the dosing is the same in both tanks but light levels are higher. Could be that extra light is driving the need for more ferts, and is creating more plant mass than the other. More plant mass generally means need for more ferts.

Your N:P:K dosing is 12:6:10 per week. But at 60% water change, it's the same as someone dosing 10:5:8 at 50% water change. so your max accumulations are 20:10:16 in the water column. In my tank, which also has loads of stems and driven hard by light, that would be on the light side for N & K and old growth might suffer. I would bump each up a bit and get K to at least to the N level or higher.

What is the pH drop from CO2 injection?

And how bad is it? A little GSA on old growth, especially on plants that might be shaded or crowded, is not that big of a deal. I see it sometimes when I let the plant mass get out of control. Trim things up and reduce crowding/mass and it goes away.

Do you know how much PAR you have at the substrate? Sometimes just a tweaking of light can have an effect as well.

But really, all in all I would say things look pretty darn good, so I wouldn't change anything too quickly.
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Last edited by Greggz; 02-16-2020 at 01:25 PM. Reason: typo
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post #110 of 128 (permalink) Old 02-16-2020, 02:31 AM Thread Starter
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Not really sure on the GSA. Its almost certainly fert related though, an imbalance somewhere. Most likely macros but I'd still fix that B overdose soon. Something has the plants a little unhappy, even if you can tell it, and it could very well be that extra B. There's fine line between just right and too much where B is concerned

Everything looks pretty good to on paper to me except NO3 is kinda low compared to other stuff. Maybe try 5 ppm doses, that'd be 15/week vs 12.

Raising PO4 might make it go away even though it looks like there's plenty. But if you try that I'd raise NO3 first or at the same time because you're already dosing 2:1 NO3:PO4, not that a certain ratio is critical but you do want to stay in a favorable range


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Could be many things.

You said the dosing is the same in both tanks but light levels are higher. Could be that extra light is driving the need for more ferts, and is creating more plant mass than the other. More plant mass generally means need for more ferts.

Your N:P:K dosing is 12:6:10 per week. But at 60% water change, it's the same as someone dosing 10:5:8, so your max accumulations are 20:10:16 in the water column. In my tank, which also has loads of stems and driven hard by light, that would be on the light side for N & K and old growth might suffer. I would bump each up a bit and get K to at least to the N level or higher.

What is the pH drop from CO2 injection?

And how bad is it? A little GSA on old growth, especially on plants that might be shaded or crowded, is not that big of a deal. I see it sometimes when I let the plant mass get out of control. Trim things up and reduce crowding/mass and it goes away.

Do you know how much PAR you have at the substrate? Sometimes just a tweaking of light can have an effect as well.

But really, all in all I would say things look pretty darn good, so I wouldn't change anything too quickly.


Thanks for the input. I will try more N and more K, and thinking will keep P where it is for now then increase later depending on how things go.

This was all happening before I added the new lights, before this my PAR levels were in the range of 90-100 ~1-2Ē off substrate directly under the light. I had added a blue 420 t5HO 24Ē single bulb which would have increase par by maybe 20-30, 40 at most. This added bulb is now gone.

Ph drop is a 7 to 5.95.




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post #111 of 128 (permalink) Old 02-16-2020, 01:32 PM
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Ph drop is a 7 to 5.95.
At 100+ PAR you are also increasing need for CO2. The higher the light, the more you need to get CO2 fine tuned.

I'd slowly increase that drop while keeping an eye on both plants and fish. FWIW my peak drop is 1.35 from degassed, and I know lots of other folks who have similar drop.


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post #112 of 128 (permalink) Old 02-16-2020, 03:49 PM
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Water change today, so overall I ended up dosing 6PPM Ca and 2PPM Mg x2, with a 50% water change, tank should have increased by 9 and 3 respectively.

Ca now testing at least somewhere between 20-40, purple on the first drop blue on the 2nd.

Just an FYI. Assuming you are using the API Calcium test, you can get a much more accurate reading by adjusting a few parameters...
Collect 20ml of water instead of 5
Add 5 drops of solution 1 to the 20ml, then give it a good stir.
Each drop of solution 2 now equals 5ppm calcium.

Having the clear container sitting on a white paper towel helps to see the color change from pink (light purple?) to blue.
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post #113 of 128 (permalink) Old 02-16-2020, 04:35 PM Thread Starter
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vvDO's 20L Major rescape Dutch style

Quote:
Originally Posted by Greggz View Post
At 100+ PAR you are also increasing need for CO2. The higher the light, the more you need to get CO2 fine tuned.



I'd slowly increase that drop while keeping an eye on both plants and fish. FWIW my peak drop is 1.35 from degassed, and I know lots of other folks who have similar drop.

I tried going higher, my first thought was not enough CO2, though fish were acting weird when I went higher. I can always try again after I give them some time to adjust.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Immortal1 View Post
Just an FYI. Assuming you are using the API Calcium test, you can get a much more accurate reading by adjusting a few parameters...
Collect 20ml of water instead of 5
Add 5 drops of solution 1 to the 20ml, then give it a good stir.
Each drop of solution 2 now equals 5ppm calcium.

Having the clear container sitting on a white paper towel helps to see the color change from pink (light purple?) to blue.

Thatís how I tested. Read a post by @Edward and @Grobbins48 a couple of years ago and learned that trick!


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post #114 of 128 (permalink) Old 02-17-2020, 01:15 AM
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Looking really good! Colors are popping and growth looks healthy! Well done!



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post #115 of 128 (permalink) Old 02-17-2020, 01:46 AM Thread Starter
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Just checked PAR... itís now more like 180 with the current setup.

Finnex planted plus LED strips alone about 130.

The 460 nm bulb I removed gave me about 40 PAR alone. I had placed that between 2 Finnex.

The new strips alone give about 100 PAR.

All measured about 11-12 inches from the light.


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Looking really good! Colors are popping and growth looks healthy! Well done!

Thanks!



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post #116 of 128 (permalink) Old 02-17-2020, 02:03 AM
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Just checked PAR... itís now more like 180 with the current setup.
Oh my........that is a LOT of PAR.

My tank can't withstand that PAR for long without algae creeping up.

I'd dial it down....but who knows, maybe you can get away with it??
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post #117 of 128 (permalink) Old 02-20-2020, 05:06 AM Thread Starter
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Oh my........that is a LOT of PAR.



My tank can't withstand that PAR for long without algae creeping up.



I'd dial it down....but who knows, maybe you can get away with it??

I had 250+ in the near past using a SB reef light and I had issues at the time, which I believe was due to seasonal changes in my tap water and also wasnít as consistent with dosing. I guess weíll see what happens. I am already trying to figure out how to raise the lights, will probably cut some acrylic strips and use them as risers, will probably aim for 120-130 range.


When I had aquasoil even old 5 year old soul, never had a problem growing Ammannia pedicillata. Since I started BDBS, itís been the most unhappy plant in my tank. I stole a something out of @Maryland Guppy playbook... though a clear cup so my phish can get a headache . I also added a few osmocote+ since itís old aquasoil.


When I pulled up the wretched stems, I could not believe the roots... if only the rest of the plant would grow so well...


Hereís a full tank shot today after water change...
The first I took with another camera app using my iPhone, the second with the regular iPhone camera app.



I may have to get rid of those crypt spiralis red at the back left side... too unruly for such a short tank.

Tap TDS is unchanged at 30, so still dosing Ca and Mg. I tested about 3 hours after water change when I dosed. Ca is now 30 and Mg calculated at 8. I dry dosed 2 ppm of Mg. I also dosed 2 ppm of K. 6 ppm NO3 (from KNO3) and 2.5 ppm PO4 (from KH2PO4).

Need to find time to redo my micro mix.


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post #118 of 128 (permalink) Old 03-06-2020, 05:27 AM Thread Starter
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Iíve sold off a massive crypt spiralis red from the back left side, was about 4-5 large plants all clumped together.

Iíve increased my dosing and also increased injection rate of CO2 to make sure I get good levels close to the start of my photo period. Rechecked my off gassed pH and noted I have a 1.2 pH drop.

Iíve lowered Ca to 30 ppm Mg 15. Iím also dosing 2 ppm of K with each water change from K2SO4.

Overall looking OK, I still have GSA on plants, mostly on lower/older leaves. Next trim I hope to get rid of it all. Itís also been 2 weeks since I have scraped the glass because of GSA so today I wiped the outside clean in hopes of getting a clear photo. I thought I had turned off my other tanks lights but I think I missed one so thereís some glare.

Iíve also never been able to from rotala Vietnam so well, you can see a few stems dead center.

Still no luck with A. pedicellata.





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post #119 of 128 (permalink) Old 03-06-2020, 09:25 PM
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The tank is so beautiful!!


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post #120 of 128 (permalink) Old 03-07-2020, 04:26 AM Thread Starter
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The tank is so beautiful!!


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Thank you!!


Hereís my 40B. Until Wed this had a 6x 24w t5HO fixture. One bulb had burned out multiple times due to a bad ballast. I was thinking of replacing the ballast and knew I wouldnít be able to do so very quickly. Plants at the foreground where the bulb sits werenít getting enough light even though I moved the fixture. I used to have 2 pendant style LED lights (Aquatic life halo) over this tank before I went T5, so I dug those out of storage and set them up along with a grow led light I had previously tested on the 20L. My biggest issue with the prior LEDs was coverage, even with 120 degree lenses, the plants all grew towards either light, and when I raised them and turned the lights up to get more even coverage, had other issues as well. Much of this could have been my dosing. Thatís the main reason I added the strip, plus it could use a bunch more red. Today, just 2 days later, Iím so surprised by how much the plants have colored up. Normally I would not get this amount of color until plants trashed about 3/4 to the top.

PAR was about 150 center tank, with Halos at 50%, then I turned it down slightly, probably closer to 130 measured about 2Ē from substrate. With all 6 bulbs of T5, I got about 80.

Tank is also finally pearling!

Plant species numbering at least 30 in this underwater jungle.




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