70 Gallon Dutch-Inspired - Page 7 - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #91 of 97 (permalink) Old 11-17-2020, 08:45 PM
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@ nntnam thanks for explaining

I am so curious to learn the root feeding stuff like you are doing but it doesn't work for me practically.

I have osmocote and osmocote plus ( so i guess these are called as commercial osmocote per your last post). I use it very sparsely (not even one full gel cap like you)may be not more 2-3 pellets in my 120L tank. If i go beyond the limit says 5-6 pellets i see heavy green dust algea on the glass.

How do you manage using lot many osmocote capsules without any algae issues?So are these 3rd gen osmocote very slow at releasing nutrients ?
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post #92 of 97 (permalink) Old 11-17-2020, 08:55 PM Thread Starter
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[quote=Notg2009;11385115]
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Originally Posted by Greggz View Post
Just to clarify, that dosing is daily but you are performing 80% water change twice a week? If so, in terms most people use the dosing is half that, about 9/3.5/9 between water changes. Which is interesting to me, as I've been lowering mine and am at 8/3/12 right now.

And now you have my curiosity with the root tabs.

Are you using them with all plants? Or just a select few?

And I imagine you do a lot of uprooting in your tank. Any issues with the Osmocote or the capsules coming up onto the substrate?

And thanks for letting me pester you with questions![/quote
@Greggz The underlying theme in your questions and answers is to make things normalized and universal to avoid confusion! I love that!! To me, some take x:y:z as literal and apply it without knowing WC schedules, source of the nutrients, effect of substrate, etc. That was definitely my case when I was watching some AGA lectures thinking, hey I dose very close to that guy but his results are definitely much better, then I realized there are different players at play. I still consider myself a noob and trying to learn more and more. So keep on asking/answering!!
@nntnam keep on posting. Your tank is doing great! Best of luck (not that you need it!).

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People often ignore Tom Barr when he talks about topics like substrate or O2 in a planted tank. Water dosing, CO2... get way more attention.
And it's right to do so. Once you master the water dosing or CO2, you can grow almost every species well. And your plant would probably look almost as good as the masters'.
But there's always room to improve. Substrate maintaining probably falls into the last bit of optimization, where almost-as-good becomes just-as-good.
Tom and Dennis (both master growers) actually have very similar substrate maintaining method.
Tom: removing muddy stuff in the substrate by WC after uprooting plants. Dennis: often vacuuming the substrate.
Tom regularly put new ada aquasoil, which is very rich in ammonia, in his tank. Dennis: often inserting osmocote in the substrate.
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post #93 of 97 (permalink) Old 11-17-2020, 09:04 PM
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[quote=nntnam;11385137]
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Originally Posted by Notg2009 View Post



People often ignore Tom Barr when he talks about topics like substrate or O2 in a planted tank. Water dosing, CO2... get way more attention.

And it's right to do so. Once you master the water dosing or CO2, you can grow almost every species well. And your plant would probably look almost as good as the masters'.

But there's always room to improve. Substrate maintaining probably falls into the last bit of optimization, where almost-as-good becomes just-as-good.

Tom and Dennis (both master growers) actually have very similar substrate maintaining method.

Tom: removing muddy stuff in the substrate by WC after uprooting plants. Dennis: often vacuuming the substrate.

Tom regularly put new ada aquasoil, which is very rich in ammonia, in his tank. Dennis: often inserting osmocote in the substrate.
More and more I'm trying to move fertilization into the substrate vs water column (based on work done by pikez/Vin). Take aways from Tom Barr and Dennis Wong for me are great maintenance and plant husbandry while keeping the substrate rich (you are definitely in this category!). I understand the concept behind EI but rather have slow and steady growth if I could. I've struggled with algae so much in the past that it's not even funny! I need to learn more about the needs of certain plants before letting collectoritis cloud my judgement .

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post #94 of 97 (permalink) Old 11-17-2020, 09:13 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by n70me View Post
@ nntnam thanks for explaining

I am so curious to learn the root feeding stuff like you are doing but it doesn't work for me practically.

I have osmocote and osmocote plus ( so i guess these are called as commercial osmocote per your last post). I use it very sparsely (not even one full gel cap like you)may be not more 2-3 pellets in my 120L tank. If i go beyond the limit says 5-6 pellets i see heavy green dust algea on the glass.

How do you manage using lot many osmocote capsules without any algae issues?So are these 3rd gen osmocote very slow at releasing nutrients ?
Using root tabs is like playing with a double edged knife.
This is my fourth or fifth tries at the root tabs and I've got algae outbreak almost every time, regardless of the type of root tabs I used.
Unfortunately, there's no fixed formula for this.
But there's some useful tips I've found
- You need to insert it as deep as possible. Any leaking would be quickly consumed by the plants.
- It's more effective if used with aquasoil.
- Avoid using or use it very sparely under areas with high frequency of uprooting.
- Avoid using it near ammonia-sensitive species like Bucephalandra, Crypt, UG,...
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post #95 of 97 (permalink) Old 11-17-2020, 10:58 PM
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Originally Posted by nntnam View Post
But there's always room to improve. Substrate maintaining probably falls into the last bit of optimization, where almost-as-good becomes just-as-good.
Tom and Dennis (both master growers) actually have very similar substrate maintaining method.
Tom: removing muddy stuff in the substrate by WC after uprooting plants. Dennis: often vacuuming the substrate.
Tom regularly put new ada aquasoil, which is very rich in ammonia, in his tank. Dennis: often inserting osmocote in the substrate.
I was actually talking with Dennis about Osmocote a while back. He said he uses them sparingly. He'll take a couple of individual balls and wrap the roots around them when replanting certain plants. Takes a lot of dedication, and demonstrates his attention to detail.

And both Tom and Dennis are meticulous about husbandry in general. As you know, general dosing is probably the least of the reasons for their success.

Have to say I really enjoy your input. Some really good stuff there. I still have to digest some of it.

Haven't ordered any Osmocote yet........but I'm easily influenced so likely on the horizon.
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post #96 of 97 (permalink) Old 11-27-2020, 12:23 AM Thread Starter
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Just wanted to share a picture of the buce in my tank.



There are two kinds of buce in this picture.
The one in the lower left has smaller, rounder leaves and has more blue in its color.
The brownie ghost has more red; hence, it looks more purple.
Both are pretty difficult to keep compared to other kinds of Buce/Annubias.
They're quite sensitive to ammonia.
Prone to BBA (and sometimes melting) when I do too much uprooting in the tank.
This is similar to the crypt. Flamingo.
They don't like unstable environment.
People always think they get BBA because of the high light but I think the number one cause is the ammonia spikes.
Sure, the high light intensity will cause more harm if the water parameters are unstable; but as long as you keep the tank clean and stable, they can grow well under pretty much any light intensity.
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post #97 of 97 (permalink) Old Today, 03:37 AM Thread Starter
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Trying a new combination of bulbs.
Removed an aquaflora and aquapink and replaced them with a tropic and a aquablue+.
This increases green and reduces red/blue intensity.



Preparing for a new layout. I'm planning to use more colored plants while trying to maintaining good local and overall contrast.
It would be like a reversed Dutch-style where the green plants become the focal points.
Using more colored plants is also going to make the scape look darker. Adding more greenish bulbs is to counter this and make the green pop.



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