145" long tank - Page 4 - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #46 of 73 (permalink) Old 03-07-2020, 07:29 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by DaveKS View Post
With high waterflow through sump heat distribution not a problem.

With this size tank I’d go with a separate heater controller and multiple (2-3) heaters rated so that combined they are slightly more than tank needs. That way if one heater fails the other heater(s) will still be able keep tank partially heated. Ie 2x200w heaters rather than 1x300w. Also if heaters have thermostats, use them and don’t just crank them wide open, set them so they are just a bit above what controller is set to. That way if one fails the remaining heater will still cycle on and off and won’t burn itself up.

There are online calculators that will help you zero in on how many watts you’ll need.

In this big a tank and investment, double down with as many system redundancies as you can and don’t cheap out. System monitor that warns you of everything from low water levels and hot/cold conditions will be well worth the investment.
so if i understand good,if my room temperature is 22C and in aquarium want also 22 then no need for heater?
Or if want in tank 24 C then some small heaters will be ok?
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post #47 of 73 (permalink) Old 03-07-2020, 11:08 AM
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Small is relative heh but yes you don't need a heater rated at heating 400 gallons of water. Smaller heaters that collectively can heat 400 gallons are fine and if you are stocking cold water fish that do fine at 22 degree water you do not need a heater at all.



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post #48 of 73 (permalink) Old 03-07-2020, 10:20 PM
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so if i understand good,if my room temperature is 22C and in aquarium want also 22 then no need for heater?
Or if want in tank 24 C then some small heaters will be ok?
It all depends on a lot of factors, use a calc to figure it.

https://www.hamzasreef.com/Contents/...llerSizing.php

For instance in that pic I saw earlier think I remember big windows down at left end. Use a actual thermometer to get a actual temp there in winter for room temp, not what you have thermostat set at. Depending on type windows, double pane etc can be way cooler there than what you dial up on thermostat.
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post #49 of 73 (permalink) Old 03-08-2020, 10:10 AM Thread Starter
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let talk about pump and staff…
because tank is in my living room and all equipement will be below in cabinet want to do silent as can...is it possible to do bean animal overflow in my case?Or this will be also silent?
I find pump jebao 15000 ? what think and if is that good for me?
Can someone help me with co2 reactor….i will biuld but dont know what size for pipe....my main pipe is 2 inch and return is 1 inch….reactor can be high max 200 cm or 2 by 100 cm if is better?
I buy GHL profilux4 and dosier also….can someone told me if this pump can be connected to jebao pump and where can find what equipement is going with ghl ( on their net in no information)...

Last edited by Tomislav Mirt; 03-16-2020 at 02:37 PM. Reason: someone
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post #50 of 73 (permalink) Old 03-08-2020, 04:31 PM
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You have to figure out the head loss on the pump to see if it is a good size or not. With 3' head and 1" plumbing my 1800gph pump puts out an estimated 1300gph for instance. I learned a lot by reading at Reef Central. When going big RC is a great resource as my 180 gallon tank is an ordinary tank and even your big one isn't unusual plus nearly all tanks use sumps.

It isn't just sump turbulence and pump noise that are issues. The overflow itself will make a lot of noise between the suck of the whirlpool if drain isn't running full and the splash of water coming over the overflow. I do think using a Beananimal is a good idea. I am using a Herbie which is low tech compared to a Beananimal but so far so good. If the water level in the overflow gets too high the emergency drain makes a horrible sound and I jump to it. With prefilter sponges over both drains I've never had a real clog or threat of overflow but probably should cut a hole in the top of one for worst case scenario. I've no idea how one would put prefilter sponges on a BA and I wouldn't run a freshwater planted tank without them. Sponge on the overflow itself?


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post #51 of 73 (permalink) Old 03-08-2020, 08:08 PM Thread Starter
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i dont know about sponge on overflow or on sump….i will put anything what everybody suggested me...

will go read to reef central to see if have something for me...
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post #52 of 73 (permalink) Old 03-09-2020, 05:44 AM
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Just remembered. Socks. They use a frame with a filter sock to catch gunk coming down the drain rather than sponges. I know somebody here tried this, no idea if they liked it or not. It is easier to rinse out a couple prefilter sponges or socks weekly than clean sump media and you don't have to be careful about damaging the nitrogen cycle bacteria in them.

I built a 20" Cerges reactor for CO2. I suggest going with a large Griggs reactor instead as it is built of PVC pipe which is much sturdier and you can build it as large as you like. I know Tom Barr built a huge one long ago. No photos have survived unfortunately but you should be able to get an idea on the sizes of materials he used in post #7. You would mount to the wall in your basement. The pump would be in the sump with hose going to the reactor with another hose going to a return in your tank or back to the main pump then to the tank. I don't see the point of returning it to the sump, Tom Barr is a far better aquarist than I am though. Google for how they actually look and work, the design has been around for quite a while.

There are many ways to get a nice planted tank out there. I prefer to gather up every idea out there and figure out what works best for my situation. I didn't have 3 drains so beananimal wasn't possible for instance. The Herbie isn't as safe but so far so good, been using one for close to a decade.


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post #53 of 73 (permalink) Old 03-24-2020, 07:31 PM Thread Starter
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So finally lamps come….i put it on top just to see...and see that all corner of tank is good with light.
I take also doser and computer .

Still dont know what pump for return...now look tunze pro 1073....
What pump for co2 reactor is it for that good small pumps like on ATO or something like that?

Is this jbl regulator good or too small?



Tell me about sump….my sup is now 200 liters cc 50 gallons and tank is cc 400 gallons...because i work lot with acryl i can do it bigger but somebody tell me that is good size….What is optimal?

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post #54 of 73 (permalink) Old 03-24-2020, 07:59 PM Thread Starter
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Bump: https://imgur.com/Im6MpXb



Bump: https://imgur.com/W6IZos9

Bump: https://imgur.com/HidpigY

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post #55 of 73 (permalink) Old 05-06-2020, 10:34 PM
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Any updates?

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post #56 of 73 (permalink) Old 05-08-2020, 09:59 PM Thread Starter
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Any updates?

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before few days i take lots of equipement but still waiting pump and some staff...tomorow will try to conected pipe and put water in tank and see if there is some leek ( hope will not be ) and then go with connection all equipement next week.

then will maybe need help so until then...
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post #57 of 73 (permalink) Old 05-15-2020, 05:54 PM Thread Starter
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ok,90% equipement is come...now few question before start..

i am going with R0 first ( from main pipe water ) water is going in 500 l tank where he will go in sump ( for wc) and for ato inside will put AUTOAQUA Smart AWC - Auto Water Change ( they have very small pump but will test and see if will be good flow)-question is -can i go direct with RO without tank for storage because RO is delivered 1500 l by day or 400 gallons?In this case my main water suply must be all time open-what is good and bad for this solutions if is possible?
i dont have basement and all equipement is below aquarium in my living room.

next is co2 reactor what will go from eheim 2016 -do You think that is good for my big reactor?

i buy jebao 20000 l pump...return will go with T connection from left and right side in aquarium..-can i go with 3/4 all time or put 1 " or more from pump and then on 3/4...maybe is better to do regulation on flow smaller…

in sump now have 3 chamber is it ok or must do more?

Will try scetch everything…

thanks
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post #58 of 73 (permalink) Old 05-15-2020, 07:05 PM
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It's probably not a good idea to pump straight RO water during water change. it would be good to mineralize it first to meet hardness requirements from the fish

since your tank is wide you may be able to set up a small container underneath that can remineralize the water as it's coming in and then a drain to pump the waste water out.

For top off RO is good, for water change use RO water with remineralizers

Have you thought about what fish you'll stock? they're what dictate what parameters you'll need to maintain.

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post #59 of 73 (permalink) Old 05-16-2020, 07:14 AM Thread Starter
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i am not sure that will need remineral ro because my water is from well….but if need how to do that?What add?
for fish ...or angel with neon,tetra etc or discus ..not sure jet
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post #60 of 73 (permalink) Old 05-17-2020, 03:57 PM
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Try These Lights!

Hello! Nice tank! Can't wait to see the finished product. I have a suggestion about the lights.

I use the Chinese box lights that are VERY good for the price. 165W with COB LED's. They put out all of the light you will need for that tank.

They have two dimmer switches on them, one for the full spectrum light and one for the blue. This feature is awesome because it allows you to adjust the temperature (warm or cool light). The other feature of this light that makes them perfect for your tank is that they daisy chain together so you can add or take away very easily.

They are about $80/light and i would suspect you would need maybe 4 of them. Even if you need 5, a $400 price tag is WAY better than 2000.

The fluval lights are great but personally i don't use their features because I like to run 2 or 3 four-hour photoperiods per day (I turn everything off in the middle of the day for at least 4 hours which allows the CO2 levels return to normal levels when I'm at work. Saves lots of $$ on CO2. Reference Dr. Diana Walstad et al). The built in timer on the fluvals only allows 1 photoperiod so I end up getting a socket timer anyway... I use Amazon Alexa compatible socket timer just to make my life easier.

I have no affiliation with this brand or product, just a happy customer. Most of the 165W box lights are the same, but i put the link and title below for the ones I use. I am pretty sure you will be satisfied with these. If you want anymore info or pics on how mine work let me know!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Phlizon 165W Dimmable Full Spectrum Auqarium LED Light Fish Tank LED Reef Decoration Light for Saltwater Freshwater Fish Coral Reef

Bump: I remineralize with seachem equilibrium. Is the water table where you are from hard or soft? TDS, GH, and kH?
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