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post #31 of 59 (permalink) Old 03-02-2020, 01:21 PM Thread Starter
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So from 2/8/20 to about a couple of days ago from today I have been battling cyano daily. Each day I'd airline tube it off. I'd rather have cyano, id prefer as I can manage it, over bba or hair algae.

I have no fish and I've been able to blast co2. I see no difference as when I had it much lower, no difference at all. However, the soil is capped with new and my predictions of lenghty syngonanthus hasn't happened.

I still am having melting issues. I think this is due to not enough water changes. Its mainly my rio negro 2006 having the issues. I hate melt, its more problematic to me than any algae. I'm not really dosing at this point.




2/20/2020

So I removed a good amount of melting plants and rearranged some plants. As well to fill in the gap of the wood, I splitted some plants. I also have a fear that if I leave splits too long they'll eventually melt.

I am very determined to get back on track to this level.

I took out the wood, and put it in my frag acrylic tank. It wasn't sinking. The weeping moss wall is slowly growing but not in the pattern to my liking. Debating what to do about it all the while I'm gonna install a spiky moss sidewall.

Got 20# cylinders @ $60 each filled, good hydros.

New equipment coming mail today from a buddy.


current 3/2/2020 fts
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post #32 of 59 (permalink) Old 03-11-2020, 10:35 PM Thread Starter
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So I think I finally narrowed it down to the syngonanthus melting of leaves to be some kind of touching disease. When the plants are healthy they can interconnect just fine with enough light getting to each of the leaves. So I've taken out most of the melting plants and either planted to my other tank or just tossed depending on the amount of green in the plant left. The initial melt could've of been ammonia but its continuing to spread despite daily water change and algae removal. Despite algae, I can almost guarantee that the melt is not caused by algae. May hinder growth a little bit, but that is it. I remove cyano daily with a airline tube and touching of those leaves with the suction I think I also spread the melt that way too. This is all just thinking observation, I can't really know. I've also got bba, but I don't remove it. For that I'd have to uproot the plants and strip it off. I can do that anytime. The melt is my main focus. The sideshoots don't melt because I plant them and they get plenty of space and not touch each other. This is all disheartening and has hardened me a bit, but I'll continue my persistence in solving the melt. Working daily for a little bit. The tougher syns like giants and such don't get it at all. The leaves are green and strong despite algae as well. By now things are rooted in pretty well so I expect better results. Some stems of melt had very well rooted into the soil as I removed them.




I've been using a new led a friend of mine built me. It has full spread and can get par up over 300 real close to 400 par. I have it dimmed to about 70 par, 6 hrs light a day.



moss frag tank
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post #33 of 59 (permalink) Old 03-11-2020, 10:58 PM
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what's the distance between the substrate and the leds?


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post #34 of 59 (permalink) Old 03-11-2020, 11:11 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SingAlongWithTsing View Post
what's the distance between the substrate and the leds?
Hey,
About 17 inches minus the substrate, so to answer about 15"
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post #35 of 59 (permalink) Old 03-14-2020, 03:59 AM Thread Starter
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So while I'm manhandling my syn 20g long, I figure I start sharing my other two tanks as well. I'll start with the frag moss tank
I wasn't going to show this for awhile because I was gonna want to enter it into the iaplc competition. But that's kindve dumb that you can't
really share. Rather than wait for all it, I'll share progress and maybe enter to the aga. Nothing top ranking, just something I can look at.

Frag Moss Tank-advanced acrylics 36"x30"x12"high
eshopps wetdry system-media bioballs only
lighting- x6 bulb 36w ati dimmable 36" fixture, 2 bulbs per day, all 6 for taking pictures, sometimes
co2 pressurized injection
old ada Malaya and Africana, plus some Chinese soil, no real brand name
ro water, remineralized
top offs, no real water changes, probably x2 since its been set up
bluestar endlers
crs, bb, blue dream
manzanita wood for hardscape
center stump is probably Malaysian
buces, mosses, mainly
1 sword
This is just current progression. Tank is far from done, im waiting buces arrival, I have moss but am lazy to tie and glue, it takes a bit to get the motivation


<a href="https://imgur.com/4nqVGYs"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/4nqVGYs.mp4" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>
https://imgur.com/4nqVGYs
https://imgur.com/4nqVGYs

Last edited by DennisSingh; 03-14-2020 at 04:01 AM. Reason: trying to video
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post #36 of 59 (permalink) Old 03-15-2020, 06:11 AM Thread Starter
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"U" can't invent a whole book of truth and prophecy. You can change it though and throughout time it can be well known as truth.
The puzzle of God
There is to me no doubt there is a God, but what kind?
I think myself God is a naturalist. The way He does things is a natural flow. Things slowly naturally, overtime, He is one major one of patience.
Buddhism makes a lot of sense in the ways to perceive life and how to channel energy in a positive mindset.
10 commandments on how to act
I myself grew up in a way as Islam, only believing in Allah without the "trying to make sense in my mind" that an Omnipotent divine being sending a part of himself that can perform miracles although still limited to body. I still believe the lather though based on prophecy. That changed me to Christianity.
Its a puzzle I'll never solve until I die
And even then will I know what happened?
There is a promise for me, and a revelation of truth so magnificient and worthy in the wait, my opinion
One thing, all most books have a savior, I believe that savior is all the same

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Quote:
Originally Posted by StrungOut View Post
"U" can't invent a whole book of truth and prophecy. You can change it though and throughout time it can be well known as truth.
The puzzle of God
There is to me no doubt there is a God, but what kind?
I think myself God is a naturalist. The way He does things is a natural flow. Things slowly naturally, overtime, He is one major one of patience.
Buddhism makes a lot of sense in the ways to perceive life and how to channel energy in a positive mindset.
10 commandments on how to act
I myself grew up in a way as Islam, only believing in Allah without the "trying to make sense in my mind" that an Omnipotent divine being sending a part of himself that can perform miracles although still limited to body. I still believe the lather though based on prophecy. That changed me to Christianity.
Its a puzzle I'll never solve until I die
And even then will I know what happened?
There is a promise for me, and a revelation of truth so magnificient and worthy in the wait, my opinion
One thing, all most books have a savior, I believe that savior is all the same
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post #37 of 59 (permalink) Old 03-24-2020, 10:53 PM Thread Starter
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I'm just got some fish stock for my frag tank. I got rid of as much endlers and shrimp as I could.
Fish I got were 7 red severums from the lfs
and 12 elegan corydoras from wetspot (this place really knows how to do it)
The cories look really cool swimming together but are already dividing into their shoals and school groups. This is the beginning I caught on tape. I feed daily live blackworms to each fishes. I really
want to fatten the corydoras up. I liked them so much I got the other 12 remaining from wetspot should come in tomorrow.
These fishes including the severums have kept me way more entertained and fascinated then my other two plant tanks at the moment.



somehow I already violated terms and service through vimeo so cant link the other two videos
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post #38 of 59 (permalink) Old 03-24-2020, 11:53 PM Thread Starter
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post #39 of 59 (permalink) Old 03-29-2020, 06:37 PM Thread Starter
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For a friend, past scape attempts









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post #40 of 59 (permalink) Old 04-14-2020, 09:11 PM Thread Starter
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Almost any light will grow. I've even seen a youtube video of a 20000k (blue light) growing. Given almost any light will grow plants in your aquarium, it still is a whole nother variable in itself. There are so many different light options out there now. They all can work, you just got to work around it. Lighting is the major monster aspect in itself. It controls growth. So when people say factors like fertilizers or co2, it just may not be so to them answers, and the difference can be lighting. You see a trend of the t5s and different combinations of bulbs and certain height off the tank. A common setup that works real well and you see wonderful plants of result. Certain light, cause certain algaes? Yes I believe that. All the variables of lighting, some are repeat just different words for it-intensity, par, pur, spectrum, color, lux, kelvin, photoperiod. More more more things to look into. Some to never be learned. So ppl usually invest a lot into light? Why? I for one, want to be able to blast as well as dim, I want super fast growth for the plants that I do have. I don't know why it is, but it seems the t5 crowd does it better than the led crowd. I mean the top notch people. It all started with t8s,t12s with me, and I've seen some wonderful things with using those to grow. I noticed the difference in moss growths using powerglos, 50/50s, coralife 6500ks and 10ks..The co2 injection rate has changed as well as fertilization regimes for me, and as well few different lighting types of the leds, t5s, t8s, t12s and power compact. They all grow so well but I may have or may have not witnessed many different algae types in the different lightings I've used. Its funny how one tank gets a certain type of algae bba or bga ie, but never any other type of algae. I think overdosing co2 is overrated, at some point it stops getting used, maybe if increased lighting you can control it that way. Boost in growth doesn't all seem co2 related, I've done a few different injection rates myself. A lot of overdoing it, mainly in fear my plants would die. So I keep injection rates rather high, if I want to add fauna or so, I lower it but see no difference in rate of growth. But then again I've never measured ppm. Back to lighting, when I had my sbreeflights, I had lanky plants. Their site says, shifting the spectrum more towards red gives taller more lanky plants with thinner leaves that are farther apart. That's exactly what happened to my uaupes. They looked like lago grande. I claimed it was the ada soil, but it was actually the lighting. I've never really been a fan of the blue spectrum except for growing mosses. Otherwise, it doesn't please my eyes. Sbreef were the best leds I've tried so far. Seems like their information, they really know their light. Reds come out nice. Some leds I tried were too directional, like the bulbs shot straight down, this made huge algae issues, cause the par was also too high at certain points. Spread was off. I've advised lower the lighting the better, even for high light plants where spread is good, I don't even follow this, I always want more, faster. Not always the best approach, lower, patience I think is better. But you see really awesome stuff being done at higher par.

1. syn tank-battling bga, melting, hair algae
2. frag tank- 2 severums died, bacterial bloom, stabilized at 5, got rid of them to the lfs

3. reason I haven't posted this tank is its always been a failure, old Amazonia (failed), sand (failed), the stems never grew
So I turned this into a aquascape Wood and stems
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post #41 of 59 (permalink) Old 04-16-2020, 11:40 PM Thread Starter
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I'll do this every so often
random picture post





new species I got in from a very generous fella


So now my uaupes are melting one leaf at a time and my rio negro 2006's are not melting at all. This is all weird and whack to me...

GIANTS deficiency, formed halos, this is probably iron and traces, I never dosed them, and now after the giants don't have it anymore, maybe one or two




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post #42 of 59 (permalink) Old 04-17-2020, 12:49 PM Thread Starter
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post #44 of 59 (permalink) Old 04-22-2020, 09:14 PM Thread Starter
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Stronger lighting will force sideshoots faster. Top any syngonanthus, any, from what I've seen, that grow in our aquarium ( I've not tested Vichada yet) and the bottom will produce sideshoots. Some species very rapidly. Giants however, growth will be hindered, not to say they won't, sides just form way quicker with the top crown. But from what I've seen, to mass prop belem, manaus, madeira, lago grande, uaupes, rio 2006, (not sao Gabriel, always remained too short), caulescens, meta, variegated off the top of my head bottom will produce a bunch of sideshoots. Regardless, the plant sideshoots anyways, just if you want a little more and then a little more. nice prop tip.

Here in this picture are bottoms of uaupes, see they are splitting, you can see tops here and there


I love watching them split. You can pull the split by having a hand gripping the main stem and then pulling the sideshoot with the other hand. That's if you do not want to uproot the whole stem and prop that way.

sao Gabriel splitting

stunted, looks to me to be uaupes

split crown lago grande

and caulescens splitting


The genus in parts of south America lives in low to none nutrient waters. Iono about the rest of the world, how the waters are. But despite this, I've haven't seen a species that thrives more in rich nutrient waters. Keeping the water low of total dissolved salts. But heres the thing, in the realm of slightly acidic and slightly everything.
In speaking to others, (this goes for generally most all the aquatic species, I say most as something will pop up or science will always prove me wrong)
we can rule out things. I said everything slightly so
rule out tds
I spoke to a buddy with a tds of over 200, I believe, but not 300
gh 0-6 id guestimate is the safe side
kh0-1
ph slightly, so range 3s to maybe 8 (for belems), but 7 on safe side
moderate co2 and almost all range of lighting intensity, at least 20 par id say



Manaus
Reminds me of the new 'Meta' sp. Long internodes, thin leaves, and a crown, vs. Meta which is wider and a bit longer internodes and crown.

Belem
The plant that got me into the genus. Everyone knows belem, but there are variants, like variegated and white, bottom roots in soil as well as all others roots higher up, some go into the soil, others assumed absorbed nutrients through water column


lago grande
a classic beauty, grows very nicely in groups

poor


uaupes vs lago grande
they can look very similar, and if your growing them lenghty, uaupes can get tall as an average lago, and a lago, well a lago can just keep growing it seems
lago down the center

uaupes center, lago backround

uaupes

uaupes? lago? uaupes or lago?



^^^^^all uaupes^^^^^^

uaupes
could be a favorite of all time plant to me. Roots into the soil very slowly. Splits rapidly. Prone to melting.
Here is the pic I used to reference back in 2012, the one I got from crispino ramos
the plant on the right side center
Now I believe this plant was on its reserve, fast mass split, but it melted rapidly

^^^^^^^
I use this in reference to help ID, in the beginning I mixed all my S grade syngonanthus up, this means rio negro 2006, sao Gabriel, and rio uaupes. I have reference pic from Japan for sao Gabriel.
References



So certain syngonanthus can take on different shape and structure based on parameters
I can define uaupes as thicker leaves, leaves downward curvature, slow rooter, bottom most roots grip soil, splits a lot, wavier leaves, leaves can compare to erio Vietnam in design, tips but the erio Vietnam info is not my information. Tips can become white, white points and whitish outline of leaves. Growing, this can go for all, whitish centers that bounce back overnight then grow whitish into the photoperiod, this is in high light and I have not seen excess fertilization of macros to solve this issue, it could be traces and iron.
stunted

adult


fast

Rio Negro 2006
Similar to uaupes, small crown, splits fast, prone to melt, roots fast into soil, grips soil, looks more like a pineapple crown
mother

stunted

stunted too

glorious

group

uaupes vs rio negro 2006
left uaupes, right 2006

middle, right-uaupes, left 2006

sao Gabriel
thinnest leaves, shortest grower, most prone to melt, splits fast, lost species unless pops up on me
center front


alll three-views
now sao Gabriel it seemed to me to be this plant as it was like no other. It supposed to have thinner leaves but it is possible for the plant to thicken up in my tanks



uaupes
the easiest one to tell apart


rio negro 2006


Madeira
just like manaus, bigger crown, ability to morph bushiness all the way down the stem. The 'stem' itself can become thicker than any other I've seen except maybe caulescens
Giants
Trimming its leaves hinders growth, not the sideshoots but the crown leaves itself. Bottoms are slowed. The plant is the best overcrowder there is. Grows uniform, grows in unison.
giants looking like lago

giants looking like belem, back

bahia
bottom leaves attract algae like bba, its hard for me to keep algae off the older leaves of this plant, sensitive and prone to melt, been growing it for awhile but I keep rehacking it down, so its like restarting

caulescens
good nitrates, id say put in at least 10ppm kno3 per week, aerial roots root all the way down to the substrate, sideshoots get blocked of light



variegated, a belem variant, twisted leaves, patches of deficiency patterns, reverts to belem and reverts back, nutrient load does not seem to matter in this pattern process....

that's all I have for now, quaranteen has allotted me the time.
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post #45 of 59 (permalink) Old 06-13-2020, 08:56 PM Thread Starter
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Everyone has their own systems and techniques and methods that they try over and over and it seems to be their routine. That's why you see someone saying well this worked for me and that worked for me. Examples of the systems are range of lighting, co2, fert methods, water parameters, etc. In developing my main syn tank, I decided I wanted a system similar to my moss frag tank. There needed to be established microorganisms, needed fish, a light constant of nh4 through the fish, co2 stable, o2 stable, fertilization stable, water stable with gh. One thing I've seen, is you gotta watch and carefully plan your system for good stability and adjustments of adaptation. Plants come from a wide range of enviromnments but we've also seen a wide range grow all in the same conditions. I believe there is a period of adaptation and if you keep changing your technique the algae will overcome. If you keep everything the same the system will develop(micro) as well the plants will grow keeping the system clean. What I'm trying to say is that I've gotten a regime going and I'm tweeking to perfect it still along with the natural biology working it too.

Perfecting my system. 20 gallon long syn tank

Ever since I switched to the wet/dry, in every situation, its been nothing but good results. Theres something about gas exchange that's really good for growing.
I switched from leds, to a 4 bulb t5
co2 is injected via a atomizer and another outlet into a mr aqua co2 reactor400
Things I noticed was the good circulation, co2 was hitting the bottom too. Very good results
But I needed fish
So I lowered the co2 considerably, I noticed gha influx on the walls the very next day, as well as halt in growth, but the plants adjust and adapt to the situation, they're fine
I began frontloading ~30ppm kno3, not per week, per water change. Water change is about 80% and maybe every 4 days. With this I needed to accomadate adding gh as I use pure ro.
I get it to about 3.

So the fish I got, 25 dwarf rainbows. pseudomugil gertrudae. I put 7 in the syn tank, and 18 in my frag moss tank. They probably see me as a big blob shadow, but I noticed that these fish see things I do not. The dwarf rainbows I see daily pinpointing with their eyes and then pecking at nothing. Could be a wall, or a plant, but nothing is there that they're pecking. The visible bugs that I've seen are now all gone, and they're still continually pecking and hunting.

New thing, I bought a blender, will see results of it.

Pictures, videos, on the way
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