My First Planted Tank - 22G Iwagumi/Dutch - The Planted Tank Forum
 
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-08-2019, 05:02 PM Thread Starter
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My First Planted Tank - 22G Iwagumi/Dutch

Iíve taken an interest in Aquascaping back in March or so of this year. Not sure what it was but I couldnít help but want to dive into the hobby so I did. Started building my collection of equipment a month later and eventually led to me setting up a dry start tank which I just flooded about a week ago.

My equipment is as follows:
Aquamaxx 22g Long (Low Iron)
Beans works DA FSPEC Light
Eheim Classic 250 (Factory Biomedia + Seachem Purigen. No carbon filter)
Hydor Inline Heater
Tippman 24oz Co2 Tank
Aquatek Co2 Regular/Bubble Counter
Jardli Glass Lily Pipes
Jardli Co2 Diffuser

Inside:
ADA 5-Step Substrate System
Controsoil
Seiryu Stone
Driftwood Bonsai

Flora (Current):
Dwarf Hairgrass
Mini Christmas Moss

Originally wanted a simple Iwagumi setup, but have decided I will be adding some mid/background plants on the left side for more color/density. Iím thinking more along the lines of a Dutch/Iwagumi style now once I figure out what other plants I want. Over the next couple of weeks while the tank cycles Iíll be deciding on fauna as well.

I am keeping the tank at 70-72įF, with Co2 injection high (10-12BPS) and on a lighting schedule of 6 hours currently. The DHG is starting to take off! The Xmas Moss is concerning however. I attached the XMAS Moss to the tree about 2 days prior to filling. It was browning slightly when it arrived and now has almost fully browned which is concerning. I have been doing a 50% WC every single day for the past 6 days since I filled the dry start. It has almost eliminated the BGA that developed during the DSM process.

Keep in mind this is my FIRST planted tank, so donít expect anything too exciting compared to what the vets are showing off these days but I am excited to kick off this adventure and learn as I go with the help of the good folk here. If anyone has any constructive criticism Iíll be happy to hear it. Ideas on future plants, redesign, what I should change/keep etc. Iím all ears.


Questions:

What should I do about the Xmas Moss browning the way it is? Is it just adapting to submersed growing?

I have Tropica Premium Nutrition, when should I begin fertilization?

Should I be using a dechlorinator + quick start (Eg. Prime/Stability) even though I donít have fish yet and am doing WC as frequent as I am?

What other plants should I add to fill in the rear/left side?!

Is there anything about this tank that YOU would change?

Thanks for viewing!




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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-08-2019, 05:47 PM
fpn
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You will want to start your nitrogen cycle as soon as possible - so you need to use a tap water conditioner (prime) - it typically takes 4-8 weeks. Here is a reasonable guide: https://www.fishlore.com/NitrogenCycle.htm

You should not need purigen at this point. Take it out. You can add it back later if you have a high fish load and see high nitrates. At this point you are taking nutrients away from the plants (and inhibiting the cycle).

Follow the ADA instructions, but don't overdo the water changes. You want enough Ammonia from the substrate to start the cycle - if you do too many water changes you just will need to add some back in...

CO2 - Check this guide - https://www.advancedplantedtank.com/...co2-level.html

Fertilizer - your substrate is rich - so you could do a lean dosing schedule like ADA - if you plan plant high of plant mass you may want to consider PPS PRO or EI.
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-08-2019, 06:12 PM Thread Starter
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My First Planted Tank - 22G Iwagumi/Dutch

Quote:
Originally Posted by fpn View Post
You will want to start your nitrogen cycle as soon as possible - so you need to use a tap water conditioner (prime) - it typically takes 4-8 weeks. Here is a reasonable guide: https://www.fishlore.com/NitrogenCycle.htm

You should not need purigen at this point. Take it out. You can add it back later if you have a high fish load and see high nitrates. At this point you are taking nutrients away from the plants (and inhibiting the cycle).

Follow the ADA instructions, but don't overdo the water changes. You want enough Ammonia from the substrate to start the cycle - if you do too many water changes you just will need to add some back in...


I was under the impression that after flooding a dry start tank, a 50% WC should be done daily for the first week or so then dropped to twice a week until Iím at a comfortable interval. All while cranking the Co2 to accommodate the plantís transition. Is this not correct info? Should I stop doing it so often and let the tank settle a bit?

Also so Iím assuming I would treat roughly 18-20 gallons worth of water with prime and a tap water conditioner. When I DO do a WC, will I just treat the 10 or so gallons I remove/replace or for the entire amount of the tank?


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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-08-2019, 08:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricci_215 View Post
I was under the impression that after flooding a dry start tank, a 50% WC should be done daily for the first week or so then dropped to twice a week until Iím at a comfortable interval. All while cranking the Co2 to accommodate the plantís transition. Is this not correct info? Should I stop doing it so often and let the tank settle a bit?

Also so Iím assuming I would treat roughly 18-20 gallons worth of water with prime and a tap water conditioner. When I DO do a WC, will I just treat the 10 or so gallons I remove/replace or for the entire amount of the tank?


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There are two reasons to do water changes here:
* remove accumulation of excess nutrients e.g. from the substrate
* fix water clarity - you often get a haze after filling due to the substrate particles that are making it into the water

When cycling you will do daily testing and will see what the Ammonia is like - if you see it over 2-4 ppm then I would do large water changes to bring it down.

Once the tank is cycled you will mostly look at nitrates to make sure those are in the 5-10 ppm (possibly 20 ppm) range. That will then drive the size and frequency of water changes

Start first just dose prime into your tank to make sure that is treated.

Then it will depend on how you do your water change.

I treat and adjust my water in a large container as I need to add GH & KH to my soft tap water - and you can't do that in the tank without killing my shrimp/fish - in that case you just dose prime for the water you treat in the bucket.

If you use a python you would dose the whole tank and add the water using the python.
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-10-2019, 03:15 PM Thread Starter
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My First Planted Tank - 22G Iwagumi/Dutch

Quote:
Originally Posted by fpn View Post
When cycling you will do daily testing and will see what the Ammonia is like - if you see it over 2-4 ppm then I would do large water changes to bring it down.

Once the tank is cycled you will mostly look at nitrates to make sure those are in the 5-10 ppm (possibly 20 ppm) range. That will then drive the size and frequency of water changes.

So I left the tank sit for a couple of days since we last spoke. As you recommended, I added Prime and Stability the other day to treat the tap water and attempt a kick start of the bio filter. My results are shown below. It looks as though I have trace amounts of Ammonia/Nitrites/Nitrates. With Nitrates being around 5ppm. From what I understand, low readings of these 3 are a good sign as the tank is cycling/cycled, correct?

Now from here I should be testing nitrates to see a rise up to around 20ppm then do my water change to remove the excess nutrients, correct?

When I DO do my water change, will I again add Prime/Stability, but only for the amount of water I remove? Say 5 gallons or so, or will I treat my bucket for a whole 20 gallons?




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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-10-2019, 05:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricci_215 View Post
So I left the tank sit for a couple of days since we last spoke. As you recommended, I added Prime and Stability the other day to treat the tap water and attempt a kick start of the bio filter. My results are shown below. It looks as though I have trace amounts of Ammonia/Nitrites/Nitrates. With Nitrates being around 5ppm. From what I understand, low readings of these 3 are a good sign as the tank is cycling/cycled, correct?

Now from here I should be testing nitrates to see a rise up to around 20ppm then do my water change to remove the excess nutrients, correct?

When I DO do my water change, will I again add Prime/Stability, but only for the amount of water I remove? Say 5 gallons or so, or will I treat my bucket for a whole 20 gallons?




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As you treat in the bucket you just dose each bucket of tap water. Just some drops of Prime and stir a bit. Most people use disposable pipettes (you can reuse them) to measure the small doses.

I am not convinced your cycle is there yet. I suggest you also test your treated tap water for nitrates.

The untreated tap water you used to fill (unless you have a pristine water source) would have contained chlorine/chloramines which would have killed your beneficial bacteria and stopped the cycle from developing.

Basically this is the phase where you want to test every day. You should at some point see nitrites go up and ammonia go to zero, and a week or so later nitrites go down and nitrites go up. And when Ammonia and Nitrate are zero then you do some very large water changes to remove the nitrates.

If your Ammonia goes above 2 ppm you may want to do a water change too. The water changes with treated water don't hurt the cycle as long as there is enough Ammonia & Nitrites to feed it.
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-10-2019, 09:00 PM
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With ADA Aquaoil startups you want to:

-Do as many water changes as possible. Daily 1st week, every other day 2nd week, etc.

-Use purigen and/or carbon to remove any excess organics. Plant nutrients provided via aquaoil and/or water column are not removed/or to an extent not worth discussing. ADA actually uses carbon for 1-2 months at startup to remove toxins and keep water clean to prevent algae growth.

-Use short light cycle 4-6 hrs depending on setup to prevent algae.

-With what you have in there you really don't have to dose, but you can add K and micros since they could be lacking


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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-11-2019, 09:26 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Asteroid View Post
With ADA Aquaoil startups you want to:

-Do as many water changes as possible. Daily 1st week, every other day 2nd week, etc.

-Use purigen and/or carbon to remove any excess organics. Plant nutrients provided via aquaoil and/or water column are not removed/or to an extent not worth discussing. ADA actually uses carbon for 1-2 months at startup to remove toxins and keep water clean to prevent algae growth.

-Use short light cycle 4-6 hrs depending on setup to prevent algae.

-With what you have in there you really don't have to dose, but you can add K and micros since they could be lacking


I have been pretty on top of things I feel. Ive done a 50% WC every day for the first week. I finally stopped that and have let the tank go for a couple of days. I will test again in the morning and see how the parameters are looking.

Lighting and Co2 have been at 6 hours daily (Co2 offset by 1 hour) but I have bumped them to 6.5 hours just yesterday. The plan was to slowly increase the schedule timing while dialing back the Co2 ever so slightly. Iím still around 8-10BPS.

So far everything has been good. The BGA that started growing during my dry start is almost eliminated and my DHG is taking off like crazy. I canít wait to get some stem plants in there hopefully next week...


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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-12-2019, 04:37 AM Thread Starter
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Just placed an order with Glass Aqua for some more plants!

I have on the way:
Didiplis Diandra
Rotala Wallichii
Rotala Bossi
Ludwigia Natans
Alternanthera Reineckii Mini
Staurogyne Repens

I havenít decided exactly on a layout for these plants but I will play around and see where they all fit in. I would ideally like to fill in the left-rear of the tank and possibly along the backside but we will see. Canít wait to get some color and variety in this tank!


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