100G Rimless peninsula tank with sump - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #1 of 55 (permalink) Old 08-25-2019, 09:19 AM Thread Starter
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100G Rimless peninsula tank with sump

Keeping the first post of the journal open for future full tank shots and equipment list
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post #2 of 55 (permalink) Old 08-25-2019, 09:40 AM Thread Starter
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Introduction:

The livestock from my reef tank is being removed next weekend as I want to convert to planted tanks.
My wife is not overly happy with it as she loved the reef (looking at it, not maintaining it) but I feel it is time for something new, evenly rewarding and interesting.
The current tank is 135 x 80 x 57cm, with sump for a total of about 700L.

This tank will be replaced by new one (the old one is heavily scratched) with similar dimensions but lower:
135 x 80 x 40cm.

I am still debating on whether keeping the sump or continue with external filter(s).
I love my sump (more info about it later). It is easy to work with it, clean it, maintain it and I have all the equipment for it.
A canister filter on the other hand is compact, would easily allow the chiller to enter in the stand and maintenance is pretty easy and quick as well.

Some pictures of the tank and cabinet as it was before setting up the reef.
Imagine that the new setup will be the same, but with a more shallow display tank.
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post #3 of 55 (permalink) Old 08-25-2019, 10:33 AM
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Beautiful set up!

I always prefer a sump if possible because it gives you so many more options and eliminates the canister filter tubes from the aquarium. The glass pipes are wonderful but what you normally don't see on the Internet pictures is how green/brown the tubes get over time. You also are able to swap out mechanical and chemical filtration much easier with a sump.

That being said, it does take up a lot more cabinet space than an canister. If you do go canister, I would recommend the new Oase filters that allow you to replace the prefilter without taking the filter apart.

Why do you need a chiller?

Best,

Art
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post #4 of 55 (permalink) Old 08-25-2019, 10:41 AM Thread Starter
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Further thoughts on the use of a sump:

What is a good return flow for a total water volume of about 380L? I removed here already the volume for rocks, substrate,...
There is one return pump with dual inlet to the tank. If possible I like to avoid the need of any other wavemaker.

How to set up the sump and filtration?
There will be 2 filter socks instead of the below 4 socks.
Water is running in U form and there is a lot of space to add extra baffles if necessary.
How many compartments do you recommend for bio media and others?


CO2
Any suggestions for the best way to add this to this system?
Inline reactor? In tank diffusor? Cerges reactor?
Are the CO2-Art regulators and diffusors any good?


I have an UV reactor.
Is UV something that is commonly used? I know that it does not do wonders, but it can help to remove certain items from the water.


Water top off:
I will do some more reading and testing of my tap water to find out what can be used.
I have a rodi-filter, but understand that nutrients are needed.
My tap TDS is about 160.

Bump:
Quote:
Originally Posted by MiamiArt View Post
Beautiful set up!

I always prefer a sump if possible because it gives you so many more options and eliminates the canister filter tubes from the aquarium. The glass pipes are wonderful but what you normally don't see on the Internet pictures is how green/brown the tubes get over time. You also are able to swap out mechanical and chemical filtration much easier with a sump.

That being said, it does take up a lot more cabinet space than an canister. If you do go canister, I would recommend the new Oase filters that allow you to replace the prefilter without taking the filter apart.

Why do you need a chiller?

Best,

Art
Hi Art, thank you for chiming in.
Very much agreed on the sump pros and I think I will go with that route.

I am not sure how to get this in my avatar space, but I live in Dubai and most probably will be moving to Vietnam in the future.
Here a chiller is something not to be forgotten in the setup. I guess in Vietnam I will have the same issue with heat.

I saw the Oase Biomaster filters and these look very good. A Biomaster 600 would do great.
Good to know about the lily pipes.
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post #5 of 55 (permalink) Old 08-25-2019, 12:24 PM
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Hi Janci,

The chiller depends on where your tank is and what you keep your home at. I live in Miami where it's often 34+ celsius. However, most homes here have AC and we keep it at a balmy 76 F so I never use a chiller.
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post #6 of 55 (permalink) Old 08-25-2019, 05:37 PM
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This setup is going to be amazing! Grabbing some popcorn and tuning in
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post #7 of 55 (permalink) Old 08-25-2019, 06:07 PM Thread Starter
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I just realized that I am working next to a pile of rocks that might be useful for the scape.

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These rocks are coming from the mountains between Oman and Ras Al Khaimah.
I have no idea about the composition, but man they are heavy.
I will bring some home, put in a brute with a pump and leave this outside. The temperature here is around 45 degrees for the moment and I will check each week what happens with the water parameters.
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post #8 of 55 (permalink) Old 08-25-2019, 07:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Janci View Post
Further thoughts on the use of a sump:

What is a good return flow for a total water volume of about 380L? I removed here already the volume for rocks, substrate,...
There is one return pump with dual inlet to the tank. If possible I like to avoid the need of any other wavemaker.

How to set up the sump and filtration?
There will be 2 filter socks instead of the below 4 socks.
Water is running in U form and there is a lot of space to add extra baffles if necessary.
How many compartments do you recommend for bio media and others?


CO2
Any suggestions for the best way to add this to this system?
Inline reactor? In tank diffusor? Cerges reactor?
Are the CO2-Art regulators and diffusors any good?


I have an UV reactor.
Is UV something that is commonly used? I know that it does not do wonders, but it can help to remove certain items from the water.


Water top off:
I will do some more reading and testing of my tap water to find out what can be used.
I have a rodi-filter, but understand that nutrients are needed.
My tap TDS is about 160.

Bump:

Hi Art, thank you for chiming in.
Very much agreed on the sump pros and I think I will go with that route.

I am not sure how to get this in my avatar space, but I live in Dubai and most probably will be moving to Vietnam in the future.
Here a chiller is something not to be forgotten in the setup. I guess in Vietnam I will have the same issue with heat.

I saw the Oase Biomaster filters and these look very good. A Biomaster 600 would do great.
Good to know about the lily pipes.
Flow: Most recommend turnover of 4 to 8 times per hour.

Sump: I recommend as few compartments as possible for bio media. 1 preferred and 2 if you absolutely have to for some reason. Easier to clean and take care of this way. Also saves space for other things you may need. You mention a chiller so you probably won't need a heater, but if you do its good to have space for them. Plus you never know when you may want to throw in a bag of purigen or some such.

CO2: Most recommend doing a reactor for large tanks. A rex griggs style reactor is super simple and easy to create. Its also very effective. The best co2 regulators are the ones you buy used and then replace parts like needle valve, solenoid and others to make a better functioning unit. This is called a diy regulator. That said, if you just want to buy one off the shelf co2art units are the best "cheap" (cheap being relative) option available and gla regulators are the more expensive option.

UV: Keep it, and use it. While not super common in planted tanks it is definitely helpful and people that do run them generally seem to like them.

Water: 160 tds is not crazy high and could definitely be used for most plant species. /shrug

Hopefully that helps. Have you thought about livestock yet? Your tank will be a shallow one when you take into account loosing height for either an overflow or drilled holes plus about 2 inches of substrate. You will likely have about 12 inches (33 cm?) of water when all is said and done. This will possibly eliminate some species of fish but most importantly will limit a lot of plant choices / scape designs. You can still make a lovely scape but it might be better to plan it out a little now then realize later that you really needed an 18 inch high tank instead of 16.
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post #9 of 55 (permalink) Old 08-26-2019, 06:06 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by minorhero View Post
Flow: Most recommend turnover of 4 to 8 times per hour.

Sump: I recommend as few compartments as possible for bio media. 1 preferred and 2 if you absolutely have to for some reason. Easier to clean and take care of this way. Also saves space for other things you may need. You mention a chiller so you probably won't need a heater, but if you do its good to have space for them. Plus you never know when you may want to throw in a bag of purigen or some such.

CO2: Most recommend doing a reactor for large tanks. A rex griggs style reactor is super simple and easy to create. Its also very effective. The best co2 regulators are the ones you buy used and then replace parts like needle valve, solenoid and others to make a better functioning unit. This is called a diy regulator. That said, if you just want to buy one off the shelf co2art units are the best "cheap" (cheap being relative) option available and gla regulators are the more expensive option.

UV: Keep it, and use it. While not super common in planted tanks it is definitely helpful and people that do run them generally seem to like them.

Water: 160 tds is not crazy high and could definitely be used for most plant species. /shrug

Hopefully that helps. Have you thought about livestock yet? Your tank will be a shallow one when you take into account loosing height for either an overflow or drilled holes plus about 2 inches of substrate. You will likely have about 12 inches (33 cm?) of water when all is said and done. This will possibly eliminate some species of fish but most importantly will limit a lot of plant choices / scape designs. You can still make a lovely scape but it might be better to plan it out a little now then realize later that you really needed an 18 inch high tank instead of 16.
Thank you @minorhero, for the recommendations and explanations.
You are right, the sump will need to be prepared for some bio media. I plan on adding some extra baffles where media, purigen or even carbon ca be placed and easily removed for rinsing.
I'll take a look at the rex griggs reactor. Never heard about it so Google will do.
I ran a calcium reactor on the the reef tank which had a very good CO2 regulator. I might get the same, but for such a small piece, it is a big gap out of the budget. To be continued.

The scape is another headache which is still not solved.
I am a fan of the iwagumi style, but doubt I can pull it off easily. I doubt I can find the correct stones (even with the pile outside my office). I love the green carpets but filling this tank completely with dwarf hairgrass will result in too much trimming. (unless there is an electric and underwater lawnmower available by now?!)
Instead I will combine a carpet with some elevated plateau and rocks for plants to protrude the surface.
I started some sketches, but will need to find some more information about plants and how to place/care for them.
For fish I will go with a shoal of easy-to-care-for small fish, some algae eaters and shrimp.
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post #10 of 55 (permalink) Old 09-01-2019, 06:09 PM
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post #11 of 55 (permalink) Old 09-03-2019, 07:34 PM
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That's going to be a really gorgeous setup, @Janci! Subbed!
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post #12 of 55 (permalink) Old 09-03-2019, 07:56 PM
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beautiful setup! looking forward to seeing it planted!
about the hardscape stones: I would test to make sure they don't affect water chemistry.

I'm not a mineralogist and I can't identify or give advice on that exact rock in the picture, but limetone rocks can make your water really alkaline and raise your PH and KH.
an easy test is to pour a little vinegar over it and see if it bubbles...
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post #13 of 55 (permalink) Old 09-04-2019, 07:26 AM Thread Starter
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beautiful setup! looking forward to seeing it planted!
about the hardscape stones: I would test to make sure they don't affect water chemistry.

I'm not a mineralogist and I can't identify or give advice on that exact rock in the picture, but limetone rocks can make your water really alkaline and raise your PH and KH.
an easy test is to pour a little vinegar over it and see if it bubbles...
I did a test where I broke a piece of one rock and poured some battery acid over it.
It turned out safe.
Last week I also visited the LFS and brought home some very small pieces of rock which they had available and looked good. When I asked to know where these are coming from, they answered probably China.
So I threw them in the same acid and very slowly some bubbles started to form.
I guess my rock is even better quality.

Bump: In the past weeks I have been contemplating about the size of the aquarium.
Although I like the big tank, I think it is too big for a planted tank, taking in consideration the following:
- I'll probably will be moving beginning of next year
- I like the stand (and so does my wife, which is important) but I believe it can be better looking
- I started doubting on using a sump after seeing the Oase Biomaster filters which seem to be a breeze to maintain.
- a big tank means more soil, bigger water changes, more plants to begin with, more CO2, probably flow issues, and so on
- I sold my Ecotech Radions and will need new lights. The smaller the tank, more economical this purchase.

So I will have to change the title of this thread in 90G Rimless peninsula tank (no sump).
New dimensions will be 100 x 80 x 42cm
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post #14 of 55 (permalink) Old 09-04-2019, 07:38 AM Thread Starter
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I am still researching plants, but how can I measure the CO2 consumption this kind of volume will have.
Taking in account that 50% will be carpet, with another 30% of stem plants.
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post #15 of 55 (permalink) Old 09-17-2019, 12:20 PM Thread Starter
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After a lot of deliberation I decided not to change the title of the thread and ordered a Modular Marine overflow. This means I now have to check how to get a sump in the cabinet.
The Modular Marine overflow will have a capacity of 800gph, which should be enough for this size of tank.
The inner box is omly 200mm long which will not distrurb a lot of the view and it is small enough to let the emerging stem plants hide it from plain sight.

My LFS, that took most of the coral and fish from the previous reef set up, realized they made a great deal on that and will be giving me the new display tank for free.
The tank will be drilled 3 times. Twice for the overflow and one for the return.
That leaves me to do the new cabinet and sump.
Not a bad deal at all.

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