They were doing an amazing job picking up all the detritus and keeping the plants waving back and forth. Had them on opposite ends and different sides but even on the lowest settings they were just too powerful for the 10 test Cardinals, so I plan on putting them on timers to come on for 15mins every 4 hours, 3x a day. Still throw up all the detritus and give the fish a break. I am using XF230's so technically on paper underpowered for my tank but actually using them, I think 1 would actually be fine for the whole tank on a higher setting.
Yes right next to the inlet of the return pump, working out great. The only issue with that is you see the CO2 "bubbles" in the main tank, almost looks like carbonated water, doesn't give you a clear looking tank, but I don't mind that as of right now because once the tank is fully stocked I don't plan on using CO2 anymore.
Thank you very much for the information, very helpful. I have decided to go with Discus and updated my stocking list.
Plan on keeping the tank at 82F
6 x Discus
40-50 x Cardinal Tetras
40-50 x RummyNose Tetras
20 x Ottos
10 x Blackfin Corys
10 x Sterbai Corys
10 x Nerite Snails
4 x 4-6" Different Catfish
2 x Zebra Ancistrus
Still deciding if I have the room for 50 Cardinals/Rummy, might reduce the number to 40 each as the rocks do take up a lot of space. Switched the Corys to types that can handle 82F as well.
Wowzers! You're going with Discus? I'm really happy I have another Discus Journal to follow. @Discusluv
have a ton of info so I'd encourage you to reach out to them...
In terms of your stocking, I'd replace the nerites with ammano shrimp. I've come across a lot of debate about snails with discus and their ability to pass nasties to discus so for me it's a grey area that I, personally, wouldn't chance. I'm not sure about blackfin corys in terms of temp. And I'll preface the following by stressing that it's just personal preference... Personally, I'd go with one large school of cardinals, rummynose, or rasboras when they move in unison /school as one large school it is a thing of beauty.
In terms of discus my limited advice would be as follows.
.Research and purchase from a quality breeder. I believe this to be one of the most important factors. Stendker discus is the most reputable here in Europe though I'm not sure about the United States
.Don't fret if they refuse food for a while, they can go up to a month turning their nose up at whatever you try to feed them. I had one discus that went 17 days refusing to eat and then turned into a savage on day 18's feed
.Watch their behavior. Hanging out at the top or bottom acting subdued or staying in the same area is a sign that something is wrong even if they look like they're in good health, physically.
.Quarantine and proactively treat of internal and external issues. I use these two treatments
.Growth occurs quite quickly in my opinion. They should grow in total circumference, maintaining their round shape as opposed horizontally
.Nitrates. I found several discus tank collapses attributed to nitrates on the internet, especially when the keeper is feeding meaty food mixes. In a normal planted tank you might get up to 20ppm within a week. But feeding discus twice a day (which I believe is the minimum) could get you to 40ppm within 5 days.
.Lastly, water changes. Discus keepers have been debating this topic for an entire age. Some recommend turning over 100% of your water once a week. Others are growing huge discs with 20-30% Personally, I believe it comes down to balance and the previous point of nitrates. If you can keep the nitrates down then 50% seems to suffice. Persoanlly I don't have enough plants to lower nitrates so I do a 31g WC Wednesday and Saturday and a 52g on Sunday to keep my nitrates at 10ppm
If you've already taken these things into consideration then my apologies in advance.