Rolla's 118G Journal (Photo heavy) - Page 3 - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #31 of 74 (permalink) Old 10-20-2018, 02:19 PM
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I can see that happening in due course. I'm not sure where I'll put them due to the scape but I definitely want more buces. For now I'm just monitoring for any potential imbalances.







I have been reading through your journal since I signed up. You've posted a ton of info about each so for me, it's been really helpful especially the Bloodfins. And yes, please post the pic if and when you can.
I'll try to get some today. The bloodfins are super active and they are very hardy. They do jump though. Additionally bloodfins look really cool with Rummynose. Of course Rummynose can be difficult to acclimate and like neons, green neons, and cardinals they must come from a high quality source.
Have you seen green fire tetras yet? Very similar to bloodfins, but more red on the belly and they develop a pastel green color in the upper areas

I really dont think you can go wrong with green neons.
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post #32 of 74 (permalink) Old 10-21-2018, 10:20 AM Thread Starter
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I have found the root cause of the cloudiness...

After some reading about the cloudiness I got slightly worried about it being related to my bacteria colony. Apparently if it is an imbalance a water change wouldn't solve the issue and could potential make it worse. I carried out a 90% WC and then a 50% WC the next day. For the next two days I had really clear water in comparison to what it had been and could even see the plants pearling after 5 hours (more on that later.)

I added the Easylife Profitto fertilizer after lights out and checked the tank 30 minutes later and boom... The water was/is really cloudy again. I'm unsure of what action to take here? I should mention that I overdose the seachem prime due to my water source being heavily chlorinated. But I'm not certain that's related.

Now that I know it's the Profitto I'm worried about leaving excess ferts in the tank and what that could potentially lead to.





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I'll try to get some today. The bloodfins are super active and they are very hardy. They do jump though. Additionally bloodfins look really cool with Rummynose. Of course Rummynose can be difficult to acclimate and like neons, green neons, and cardinals they must come from a high quality source.
Have you seen green fire tetras yet? Very similar to bloodfins, but more red on the belly and they develop a pastel green color in the upper areas

I really dont think you can go wrong with green neons.
I've only seen bloodfins once in person. It was reading through your journal and being reminded of how elegant they looked that put them on the short list. Unfortunately for me my not so local LFS' are not the best standards so i'm looking into mail ordering some species for online stores with good reputations. That or wait for an LFS to get new stock and pick them up the day they go from quarantine to display.
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post #33 of 74 (permalink) Old 10-22-2018, 07:53 PM Thread Starter
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Today's delivery Cryptocoryne Undulatas Red and a regulator/solenoid combo from CO2 Supermarket.




I'll finally be able to set and control the CO2 bubble rate. Baby steps I guess.
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post #34 of 74 (permalink) Old 10-22-2018, 09:11 PM
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Baby steps are good. Wish I had a dollar for each one I have taken! Likely would not need any Lottery tickets, LOL
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post #35 of 74 (permalink) Old 10-22-2018, 10:58 PM Thread Starter
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Baby steps are good. Wish I had a dollar for each one I have taken! Likely would not need any Lottery tickets, LOL
Indeed. My ferts are causing a lot of clouding in my aquarium so that's the next baby step. I have some seachem flourish on the way so I'm hoping the smaller, more frequent, dosing as opposed to one large amount helps address the issue.
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post #36 of 74 (permalink) Old 10-22-2018, 11:03 PM
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Indeed. My ferts are causing a lot of clouding in my aquarium so that's the next baby step. I have some seachem flourish on the way so I'm hoping the smaller, more frequent, dosing as opposed to one large amount helps address the issue.
What exactly is everything you are dosing? Curious what might be causing cloudiness.
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post #37 of 74 (permalink) Old 10-22-2018, 11:21 PM Thread Starter
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What exactly is everything you are dosing? Curious what might be causing cloudiness.
Hey Grobbins

I'm dosing Easylife Profito. To begin with I didn't realize the correlation between the fert and cloudiness. With the tank being newly setup and no mature media in the filter, I figured that was the root cause. But after adding the mature media a few days later, and the bloom persisting, I did a 100% WC and watched it for the next few days. The clouding was slight and I attributed that to the FX6 since the canister holds about 80L. But in comparison it looked almost crystal clear.

I then redosed the Profito and checked back 30 minutes later and the aquarium looked almost milky. An absolute haze. And I realized it was the fert. The dose requires 10ml per 100ml. once per week. I dosed 40ml.

My theory is the seachem prime is reacting with the ferts.
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post #38 of 74 (permalink) Old 10-22-2018, 11:37 PM
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Hey Grobbins

I'm dosing Easylife Profito. To begin with I didn't realize the correlation between the fert and cloudiness. With the tank being newly setup and no mature media in the filter, I figured that was the root cause. But after adding the mature media a few days later, and the bloom persisting, I did a 100% WC and watched it for the next few days. The clouding was slight and I attributed that to the FX6 since the canister holds about 80L. But in comparison it looked almost crystal clear.

I then redosed the Profito and checked back 30 minutes later and the aquarium looked almost milky. An absolute haze. And I realized it was the fert. The dose requires 10ml per 100ml. once per week. I dosed 40ml.

My theory is the seachem prime is reacting with the ferts.

Have not heard of that product so I did a little looking...

Advantages of Easy-Life ProFito
  • Highly concentrated, all-in-one, universal plant food
  • All the necessary nutrients in a single product, such as iron, potassium and manganese
  • Strong, healthy and lush plant growth
  • Promotes the production of cytokinins, which stimulates the division of cells
  • Produces wider leaves and intense colours
  • Improves and consolidates the biological balance in the aquarium
  • Contains no nitrates or phosphates
  • Extremely economical to use

The one thing that jumps out to me is the second to last line - Contains no nitrates or phosphates. Curious, thats the main 2 macros that I dose (and spend time adjusting).

Guess the one thing I was looking for is if it has something like Calcium. When I have dosed Equilibrium, my water went cloudy pretty quick.
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Last edited by Immortal1; 10-22-2018 at 11:39 PM. Reason: <?>
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post #39 of 74 (permalink) Old 10-22-2018, 11:43 PM Thread Starter
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Have not heard of that product so I did a little looking...

Advantages of Easy-Life ProFito
  • Highly concentrated, all-in-one, universal plant food
  • All the necessary nutrients in a single product, such as iron, potassium and manganese
  • Strong, healthy and lush plant growth
  • Promotes the production of cytokinins, which stimulates the division of cells
  • Produces wider leaves and intense colours
  • Improves and consolidates the biological balance in the aquarium
  • Contains no nitrates or phosphates
  • Extremely economical to use

The one thing that jumps out to me is the second to last line - Contains no nitrates or phosphates. Curious, thats the main 2 macros that I dose (and spend time adjusting).
Here in the UK we are rated as having the worst water in Europe. I think the average glass of water is recycled 10+ times and with that comes a lot of Nitrate and Phosphates from the tap. In an effort to balance the aquarium I've avoided those two ferts in my dosing regime.
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post #40 of 74 (permalink) Old 10-22-2018, 11:46 PM
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Here in the UK we are rated as having the worst water in Europe. I think the average glass of water is recycled 10+ times and with that comes a lot of Nitrate and Phosphates from the tap. In an effort to balance the aquarium I've avoided those two ferts in my dosing regime.
That is quite interesting. Have you tested the water parameters from the tap to see your levels of NO3 and PO4? If so, are they constant or do they vary through the year?

I would be curious to know the paramaters and levels, if possible.
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post #41 of 74 (permalink) Old 10-23-2018, 12:04 AM
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Here in the UK we are rated as having the worst water in Europe. I think the average glass of water is recycled 10+ times and with that comes a lot of Nitrate and Phosphates from the tap. In an effort to balance the aquarium I've avoided those two ferts in my dosing regime.
I wouldn't be so sure you won't need some N and P.

Sometimes when folks rely on tap water or fish load for nutrients, doesn't work out in the long run.

Just saying, keep an open mind. Once you get going a bit more, you might try dosing some N & P for a week or two and see what happens. You might be surprised.


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post #42 of 74 (permalink) Old 10-23-2018, 12:07 AM Thread Starter
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That is quite interesting. Have you tested the water parameters from the tap to see your levels of NO3 and PO4? If so, are they constant or do they vary through the year?

I would be curious to know the paramaters and levels, if possible.
Indeed. I have an API test for both. My nitrates are 10-20ppm and somtimes higher in the warmer months. My phosphate is high too but I don't remember the exact ppm. I remember a post by Tom Barr where he was pictured adding a cup of nitrate to his aquarium with no detrimental affect and while, I'd never disagree with his finding I've found that in my own experience with this London/UK water source, whenever I've allowed the plants to absorb Phos and Nitrates from the tap without any additional added via ferts, I've been able to keep algae at bay.

Even when other things are going wrong, keeping those two macros in check has helped. That said, I plan to add a large school of tetras soon so my nitrates will spike. I'm oping that the large plant mass and 50% weekly water change will keep any issues in check.
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post #43 of 74 (permalink) Old 10-23-2018, 12:19 AM Thread Starter
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I wouldn't be so sure you won't need some N and P.

Sometimes when folks rely on tap water or fish load for nutrients, doesn't work out in the long run.

Just saying, keep an open mind. Once you get going a bit more, you might try dosing some N & P for a week or two and see what happens. You might be surprised.

Hi Greggz

Wise words as always. I am monitoring the plant growth, especially deficiencies. I am "surprised" by the plant growth I'm getting with both the Hygrophila Araguaia and Hygrophila pinnatifida. I've never had the Araguaia growth this fast or this red. The Pinnatifida isn't showing any pinholes yet, new growth is orange and the plant is pearling...

So the fert is really good. But I still need to tinker with some things. Hopefully the flourish (being a seachem product) wont react as badly. That, or I can adjust the seachem prime dosage and use the profito.
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post #44 of 74 (permalink) Old 10-23-2018, 12:30 AM
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Indeed. I have an API test for both. My nitrates are 10-20ppm and somtimes higher in the warmer months. My phosphate is high too but I don't remember the exact ppm. I remember a post by Tom Barr where he was pictured adding a cup of nitrate to his aquarium with no detrimental affect and while, I'd never disagree with his finding I've found that in my own experience with this London/UK water source, whenever I've allowed the plants to absorb Phos and Nitrates from the tap without any additional added via ferts, I've been able to keep algae at bay.

Even when other things are going wrong, keeping those two macros in check has helped. That said, I plan to add a large school of tetras soon so my nitrates will spike. I'm oping that the large plant mass and 50% weekly water change will keep any issues in check.

Very interesting info regarding your tap water. Always interesting to hear how different "water" can be depending on where you live.

Where I live, there is a huge farming community. As such, there is a lot of farm chemicals that drain from the fields and eventually end up in the Mississippi river. Which, coincidentally is where our tap water originates. Nitrate is an issue - but not to the level of your tap water. Curious, do you know your GH & KH levels?
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post #45 of 74 (permalink) Old 10-23-2018, 12:51 AM Thread Starter
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Very interesting info regarding your tap water. Always interesting to hear how different "water" can be depending on where you live.

Where I live, there is a huge farming community. As such, there is a lot of farm chemicals that drain from the fields and eventually end up in the Mississippi river. Which, coincidentally is where our tap water originates. Nitrate is an issue - but not to the level of your tap water. Curious, do you know your GH & KH levels?
Apparently the best water in the UK is in Scotland... The only thing good about my tap water is that the PH is consistent...

I'm curious, what steps do you take to adjust for the added nutrients. I have either the KH or GH reading available. I'm not sure which exactly, just that the api Phosphate test can also give you a reading of one. My TDS was 480. Making the sourcing of shrimp limited to London born and bred. Any from outside the city with lower tds would rarely survive the first molt. MY TDS now is 340 (ish)
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