20g "somewhat" planted - Page 2 - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #16 of 50 (permalink) Old 10-14-2018, 09:13 PM
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Also I noticed some gsa on glass and on some plant leaves. I am currently dosing 2.4ppm po4 weekly, so I believe it couldn't be from low phosphates (but I also increased my dosage to 3ppm weekly).

I believe iron plays an important role here. I am using Seachem's iron (gluc) 0.10ppm x 7 days.
Either there is something wrong with this product (as I have read many reports from other users too), or there is already enough iron from my substrate that gets in the water column, so I make it worst whenever I dose extra iron. Just don't know
Agree with Burr above. 15 N & 2.4 P may not be enough. My tank would be very unhappy at those levels. Some depends on how willing you are to experiment. Personally I would double macros for a couple weeks and see how plants respond. At 105 PAR you are driving the tank pretty hard. You can always dial it back if it doesn't work out.

And assuming GSA can't be from low phosphates at your level may not be true. Every tank is different, so trial and error is the only way to find out.

And as to Fe, I highly doubt your levels have anything to do with it. That being said, I have no experience dosing Seachem's Iron or gluc. I'd switch to DTPA, and it is surely cheaper in the long run.

But all in all it looks like things are going well. I'm guessing lowering your light level should also be helpful, but it might take some time as tank adjusts.

Hope you get it worked out, and I am looking forward to seeing where the tank goes from here. Like I said, all in all I see an awful lot going right so far.
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post #17 of 50 (permalink) Old 10-14-2018, 10:43 PM Thread Starter
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Ive seen a repeatable correlation with high Fe and hair algae, but not the kind you have. There are many types though and if Algaefix kills it then its some kind of hair algae.

It takes about 1.5 ppm per week or higher in mine to bring it on (dtpa) but of course all set ups are different.

.1 daily isnt all that much, but since your other nutrients are fairly low it may be too high for your particular set up. So you could try going down to say .08 daily and see what happens.

Sorry, forgot to mention that micros are 2x what I show in the spreadsheet, 3 days now.

It's a nutrient imbalance one way or the other - in spite of the fact that most plants look pretty good. Personally I think your macros are to low. I'd start by raising NO3 and K 5 ppm per week, PO4 another 1.5 or so.

These have been increased also. KNO3 to 20ppm and PO4 to 3ppm totally per week.

While you're at it raise Mo 50% or even double. Might wanna try just doing that first and see what happens

That Ammania looks so freakin sweet I hate to suggest any changes. It is known to thrive with low nutrients. So that one might start looking worse if you raise macros very much, but you'll just have to try something and and see what happens.

Which Ammania?
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Agree with Burr above. 15 N & 2.4 P may not be enough. My tank would be very unhappy at those levels. Some depends on how willing you are to experiment. Personally I would double macros for a couple weeks and see how plants respond. At 105 PAR you are driving the tank pretty hard. You can always dial it back if it doesn't work out.

So you suggest to target for 30ppm KNO3 and K? What about PO4? It's 3ppm weekly now. PO4 increased because of the heavier Fe dosing.

And assuming GSA can't be from low phosphates at your level may not be true. Every tank is different, so trial and error is the only way to find out.

And as to Fe, I highly doubt your levels have anything to do with it. That being said, I have no experience dosing Seachem's Iron or gluc. I'd switch to DTPA, and it is surely cheaper in the long run.

My PH is around 6.2-6.4. I just wait to finish the Seachem's iron to switch to another form. Personally I think that EDTA might be better because of my low Ph. Do you think despite that, will be better to buy the DTPA one?

But all in all it looks like things are going well. I'm guessing lowering your light level should also be helpful, but it might take some time as tank adjusts.

Maybe this algae is due to several changes that have been done. Bulbs, micros, macros, all different.

Hope you get it worked out, and I am looking forward to seeing where the tank goes from here. Like I said, all in all I see an awful lot going right so far.
Thanks guys!
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Last edited by AgMa; 10-14-2018 at 10:45 PM. Reason: edit
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post #18 of 50 (permalink) Old 10-14-2018, 11:19 PM
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The big orange plant in the middle

EDTA should work fine if that's your highest PH range. If that the lowest range like with CO2 peaking you may want to go with DTPA


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post #19 of 50 (permalink) Old 10-15-2018, 07:20 AM Thread Starter
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The big orange plant in the middle

EDTA should work fine if that's your highest PH range. If that the lowest range like with CO2 peaking you may want to go with DTPA
It's nesaea crassicaulis.
Co2 is 24/7 and I read 6.4ph with api test, no matter if it's in the beginning or in the end of the photoperiod.
It's strange, but that's it.
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post #20 of 50 (permalink) Old 10-15-2018, 07:28 AM
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It's nesaea crassicaulis.
Co2 is 24/7 and I read 6.4ph with api test, no matter if it's in the beginning or in the end of the photoperiod.
It's strange, but that's it.
Right. Except it's no longer called Nessaea, the correct name today is Ammania crassicaulis.

Id throw that test kit out the window use a digital PH pen instead. Nothing fancy, a $15 model will work fine as long as you keep it calibrated.

EDIT: Just noticed your CO2 is 24/7, so that's probably in the ballpark. Point stands about liquid test kits for Ph though.
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Last edited by burr740; 10-15-2018 at 07:39 AM. Reason: .
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post #21 of 50 (permalink) Old 10-15-2018, 07:38 AM Thread Starter
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Right. Except it's no longer called Nessaea, the correct name today is Ammania crassicaulis.

Id throw that test kit out the window use a digital PH pen instead. Nothing fancy, a $15 model will work fine as long as you keep it calibrated.
Oh I didn't know it. Unfortunatelly it has already twisted leaves, much twisted

I don't care if it doesn't meet my new parameters, it was too big for my tank.
I was thinking to buy a ph pen but I thouht that these cheap plastic ph pens, were for the can.
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post #22 of 50 (permalink) Old 10-15-2018, 07:41 AM
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Oh I didn't know it. Unfortunatelly it has already twisted leaves, much twisted

I don't care if it doesn't meet my new parameters, it was too big for my tank.
I was thinking to buy a ph pen but I thouht that these cheap plastic ph pens, were for the can.

I edited my earlier post, didnt realize your co2 was 24/7 (not sure how I missed that!) So that API probably has you in the general neighborhood


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post #23 of 50 (permalink) Old 10-21-2018, 06:12 PM Thread Starter
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Hi all,

Plants are going better generally. Crassicaulis is the only plant that doesn't like higher dosing, leaves are twisted.





GDA is a bit worse, now makes a thicker layer of algae, still manageable though. But strange thing is it's not so much on glass and substrate like it was.





Rotala rotundifolia has perfect leaves but lost it's colour, it's golden. Don't know if it's good or bad.



Rotala green is a drama for me. Stunted growth every so, because... because!
Trimmed and left just good ones, i.e. almost nothing .





Rotundifolia needs also trimming but I got bored, left for next week.
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Last edited by AgMa; 10-21-2018 at 06:15 PM. Reason: typo
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post #24 of 50 (permalink) Old 10-25-2018, 03:00 AM
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Geez who cares about the algae when you have Ammania crassicaulis that looks like that!!!
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post #25 of 50 (permalink) Old 10-25-2018, 05:15 AM
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Your plants are just absolutely stunning, algae aside. And your tank is gorgeous too!
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post #26 of 50 (permalink) Old 10-25-2018, 07:52 PM Thread Starter
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Geez who cares about the algae when you have Ammania crassicaulis that looks like that!!!
Me .
I see you guys love this plant. But it turned to be too big for such a small tank. Maybe I will try to make it the focal point of the tank when the other plants grow more and get bushy.

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Your plants are just absolutely stunning, algae aside. And your tank is gorgeous too!
Thanks, there is still room for improvement.
For now I want to reduce this annoying algae, but seems I can't.
@fablau I think you had the same problem? How did you solve it?
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post #27 of 50 (permalink) Old 10-28-2018, 08:30 PM Thread Starter
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Hi again,

I wanted to try Tom Barr's method of "don't touch for 3 weeks" for GDA but I didn't stand viewing my tank after 1 week of no cleaning.
I tried another method:

1) Turned off filter.
2) Cleaned glass, plants and decoratives that had GDA, leaving the dust into the water column (equipment that could be removed, scrubbed with a sponge and brush and rinsed in tap water to remove spores).
3) Miserable plants that couldn't be cleaned, found their way to rubbish.
4) Performed 75-80% water change (100% r/o as always).
5) Cleaned filter's sponges and changed filter wool.
6) Connected uv sterilizer.
7) Dosed 1.5X the Excel water change dose

Tomorrow I will buy Seachem clarity, to help clump the algae particles together big enough so the filter wool could take it out. Also planning to do:
1) Tank wiping every day for at least 3-4 days, changing 75-80% of the water and dose the same Excel I dosed today after every w/c.
2) Clean the filter's sponges every 12 hours and use clarity after this.

Hope it will go away, I think it's a very effective method, so fingers crossed.

Here is the tank after a big trim:



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Last edited by AgMa; 10-28-2018 at 08:48 PM. Reason: Typo
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post #28 of 50 (permalink) Old 10-28-2018, 08:51 PM
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Your routine is better
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post #29 of 50 (permalink) Old 10-28-2018, 10:10 PM Thread Starter
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Your routine is better
I hope so...
I also want to buy a green stem plant, there are too many red/orange plants and I don't like this.
Any suggestions?
I had pogostemon erectus but melted after all these changes. There is only a very small stem, I doubt if can ever recover.
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post #30 of 50 (permalink) Old 10-28-2018, 11:08 PM
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Acmella repens if you can find it over there.

Hygro siamesis 53B, might be a little too big but you could do a manageable bush with 2-3 stems. The leaves would be a good contrast to whats in there now

Other possibilities Oldenlandia salzmannii, Clinopodium brownei, Bacopa monnieri (moneywort)

P erectus would be good too if it'll grow back
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