A Tutch of Dutch in 120G - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #1 of 135 (permalink) Old 09-30-2018, 08:41 PM Thread Starter
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A Tutch of Dutch in 120G

My previous journal: 72 Dutchy Gallons

Started with a 55 gal, upgraded to a 72 gal bowfront. Now I'm moving on to a 120 gal






Last edited by MCFC; 11-05-2018 at 05:38 PM. Reason: .
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post #2 of 135 (permalink) Old 09-30-2018, 10:16 PM
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Very nice! And a bit jealous. Guessing that tank size is the same as GreggZ's tank? What are you using for a light? Kinda looks like there is 5 bulbs but I am pretty sure thats not right.
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post #3 of 135 (permalink) Old 09-30-2018, 10:19 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Immortal1 View Post
Very nice! And a bit jealous. Guessing that tank size is the same as GreggZ's tank? What are you using for a light? Kinda looks like there is 5 bulbs but I am pretty sure thats not right.


Thanks!

Itís 4íx2í. Iím pretty sure @Greggz has a 5í 120 gal.

I have 6 individual 4í Sunblaster T5HO fixtures


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post #4 of 135 (permalink) Old 09-30-2018, 10:22 PM
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Ah yes, Gregg's is a 5' long tank that is 18" front to back. So, yours is 24" front to back - nice!

Interesting thing with the 6 individual lights - you "could" have 6 separate timers and really play around with various lighting levels. Should be a fun build to follow along on.
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post #5 of 135 (permalink) Old 10-09-2018, 01:52 AM Thread Starter
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Interesting thing with the 6 individual lights - you "could" have 6 separate timers and really play around with various lighting levels. Should be a fun build to follow along on.
I'm currently using 3 timers and running my lights in banks of 2. We'll see if that changes
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Last edited by MCFC; 10-09-2018 at 05:58 AM. Reason: .
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post #6 of 135 (permalink) Old 10-09-2018, 09:16 AM
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Nice start!
You could have all bulbs on but with different colours, so you will not be high in par and have perfect colours.
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Last edited by AgMa; 10-09-2018 at 09:16 AM. Reason: Edit
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post #7 of 135 (permalink) Old 10-09-2018, 06:30 PM
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I have the same bulbs, and the same tank. They are really a good bang for the buck. I've used them for a little over four years now, and I love the flexibility of individual bulbs.
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post #8 of 135 (permalink) Old 10-09-2018, 09:31 PM
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Love the new tank! And those Sunblasters are cool fixtures. Lot's of combinations you can come up with there.

I've got a feeling this one is going to be good! Expecting great things in that set up.

Looking forward to following along.

Subscribed!
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post #9 of 135 (permalink) Old 10-10-2018, 03:00 AM Thread Starter
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Quick update:









Oto Army!


Some pink crypt starting to like life


My ode to @slipfinger




I hope everyone had a happy Thanksgiving!!
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post #10 of 135 (permalink) Old 10-19-2018, 05:24 PM Thread Starter
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Dog walk update (no pics because I donít know how to do the Flickr shuffle on my phone):

The Good
- I think Iím getting a consistent 1.2 pH drop with only a few micro bubbles in the tank
- most plants seem to be growing

The Bad
- I canít seem to get reliable check valves, so I canít keep water out of my flow meter, so the gauge on it never shows the actual flow.
- stupid rotala bonsai - I planted a handful of clumps. Some seem to be doing ok, a couple have completely melted. They are all in the same place. I donít get it.
- GSA/GDA on the glass - PO4 was around 10ppm when I tested, so Iíve reduced my photoperiod from 5 to 4 hrs. I might have to turn a fixture or two off while things are starting out. (I stupidly sent my PAR meter to slipfinger before testing my own tank haha)
- Iíve been having issue with both my micro and macro solutions, so my dosing has been very inconsistent. I think the iron I was using might have been an issue in my micros. And the issue with the macros was that I cracked the glass jar when stirring in the salts too aggressively haha.

The Ugly
- gross brown algae flourishing. I used half the sand from my old tank and half new sand. I think the new sand might not be helping. Iím going to try a few big water changes. If that doesnít work I might tone down the lights.


Between school, my RO unit, my other tanks and my new shrimp project, I havenít been able to fully devote my attention to this new setup. Hopefully in the next day or two Iíll be able to finish building my shrimp rack and also get my RO system fully set up. Then itíll be time to focus on this garden. Just in time too, as Iíve got 2 plant shipments coming in the next two weeks


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post #11 of 135 (permalink) Old 10-19-2018, 06:26 PM
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Good to see a new journal started up. The 4ft 120G is something I have my eyes on, so looking forward to seeing where you take this one.
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post #12 of 135 (permalink) Old 10-19-2018, 11:23 PM Thread Starter
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Good to see a new journal started up. The 4ft 120G is something I have my eyes on, so looking forward to seeing where you take this one.


Iím a big fan of the 120 so far. But there certainly is a big difference once you hit 100+ gallons. Even completely empty, the tank was a struggle to get up on the stand with only 2 people. My homemade canopy is so heavy that Iím going to have to hit the gym for a week beforehand if I ever need to take it off.

The 4íx2í footprint feels like just about the perfect canvas though


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post #13 of 135 (permalink) Old 10-19-2018, 11:40 PM
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Hi MCFC

It looks Oto arm really went to war against your algae bloom. Do you have any idea what caused it?. I'm really curious about your PH drop, are you aiming for a specific PH or just marking the change?
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post #14 of 135 (permalink) Old 10-20-2018, 12:13 AM Thread Starter
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Hi MCFC

It looks Oto arm really went to war against your algae bloom. Do you have any idea what caused it?.

The otos didn't really touch the brown stuff. That was all manual removal haha. It could have been caused by a number of things:

- inconsistent CO2 - I've been having issues with my flow meter and pH pen
- inconsistent ferts - I've been having issues with my solutions
- too much light too early - I was doing a 5hr photoperiod with all 6 bulbs on for 4hrs.
- unhappy plants - some plants have spent two weeks in a bin with no light, some plants are transitioning from emersed to submerged, and some are TC that need some time to adapt
- possibly something in the new or old sand
- the ghost of Takashi Amano is punishing me for not having any Amano shrimp in there yet

Who knows?? Haha

My attempts to rid myself of the algae:

- I've stopped fussing with the gauge on the flow meter and I'm now just using it essentially as a needle valve while I use my pH pen to see what's going on in the tank. Not my preferred method but it'll work for now.
- I ordered a whole bunch of new ferts a little while ago, including a different Iron. I'm going to try making my standard macro and micro mixes. Macro was just a container issue, so I bought a new one. Micros I keep getting a sludge forming at the bottom. If it happens again I'm going to try making an Iron solution and a Micros -Iron solution.
- I cut the lights down to 4hrs, with all 6 bulbs on for 3hrs. I might increase the hrs but reduce the number of bulbs.
- I can't do much with the plants but trim and wait.
- I'm going to do a few 50% w/c for a couple days or maybe a couple 80% changes over a week. I'm also switching over to RO water.
- I've got a handful of Amanos sitting in quarantine, waiting to get to work on this tank.


Quote:
Originally Posted by RollaPrime View Post
I'm really curious about your PH drop, are you aiming for a specific PH or just marking the change?
It seems like most people on the high-tech side of things aim for around 1.0 drop in their pH by the time the lights turn on. This should give you a ballpark CO2 level of about 30ppm. Because CO2 is so cheap, I want to push it closer to the limits. I've found that at around a 1.3 drop in pH my fish are gasping for air at the surface. So I see a 1.2 pH drop as being a happy medium between pushing the plants close to their limits without stressing out my fish too much. So I'm not aiming for any specific pH level per se, I'm more aiming for the specific drop.
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post #15 of 135 (permalink) Old 10-20-2018, 03:50 PM
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It seems like most people on the high-tech side of things aim for around 1.0 drop in their pH by the time the lights turn on. This should give you a ballpark CO2 level of about 30ppm. Because CO2 is so cheap, I want to push it closer to the limits. I've found that at around a 1.3 drop in pH my fish are gasping for air at the surface. So I see a 1.2 pH drop as being a happy medium between pushing the plants close to their limits without stressing out my fish too much. So I'm not aiming for any specific pH level per se, I'm more aiming for the specific drop.
I'm not sure of the exact relationship between CO2 and O2 in the water, but I don't believe they are mutually exclusive.

My pH drop is from 8.1 -> 6.6.

I found that to keep the fish from labored breathing in the morning, I run a venturi through the night that aerates the water. I figure this is also good for the plants.

Maybe an expert can correct my thinking, but I believe with proper aeration you can run high levels of CO2. That said, when I had alot of surface exchange (HOB filters), there was more aeration taking place (didn't need the venturi), but CO2 would gas off much quicker.

I think with some more aeration, you can keep CO2 levels high without hurting your fish.
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