80g Jungle Mistakes - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #1 of 129 (permalink) Old 06-18-2018, 04:27 PM Thread Starter
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80g Jungle Mistakes

Someone wanted to know more about this tank and uh... they are likely to be disappointed in my bumbling my way through things.

Currently having ph issues or it's not doing what I thought it would anyhow. There's a bunch of what is essentially calcined clay on the back half, with height built up over bags of pumice and lava rock in the back right. I ran out of pumice and lava rock and thought 1 bag of crushed coral at the bottom wouldn't have that much effect and I was so wrong. I would have to completely tear apart the back right to take it out. So I've been doing 2 25% water changes a week or so for the moment... though I think it leeches till the tank is around 8.1 ph degassed and stalls out. Ph is 6.8ish with the co2 on.
The sand across the front is caribsea sunset gold... not that I have anything against pfs or bdbs this was just what I had (all of it the pumice/lavarock/monto clay etc...) laying around and it is a closer match to either of those sands to the clay in color.

I didn't take a whole lot of pictures at this stage... stand is pretty janky eh?


These were taken a few days to a week after it was set up...





Some of the inhabitants... there are also zebra babaultis and blue diamond neocaradinia in there... it can be hard to get a picture of them in the jungle that is this tank and I haven't invested in a proper macro lens. For the moment there are no fish but I'm considering my options.



about a month after it was set up...


Easier to see some of the shrimp here. It's not really that surprising how many shrimp can hide in the tank...

... you can totally hear me tripping over h2o2 bottle going around the corner :/ Battling some staghorn algae but I seem to do that in the first few months of setting up an aquarium, probably because I'm doing something wrong but whatever. It's maybe easiest to see on some of the wood. My dosing is a little light... because I'm trying to keep my shrimp alive more than anything.

I can't list all the species in here, I legitimately don't even know what some of them are. There's probably 10 different varieties of bucephelandra, 3 or 4 anubias, and at least 5 other kinds of rhizome plants. A lot of the stuff up front, especially in the front left, is not meant to be there forever, I was seeing how it grows and thinking about replacing other plants with them. Or While trimming the back a stem is too small / would just be buried so I just let them get a little size upfront sometimes.

and uhhh more phone pics for now...









I pulled all the riccia because it is cancer (I see why it was practically given to me...)

Oh and the sump is also looking a little ridiculous too.


I need to get a proper macro lens and camera I suppose.

I was having some problems lighting around the overflow properly with just the 2 bar lights so temporarily I am hanging a 3rd light across the back as of this weekend, until I figure out what I want to do about it. I don't have some kind of secret to battling algae in fact I think I am failing often, it's a lot of maintenance... water changes / cutting away crappy parts of stems / physical removal and scraping... some plants I can completely take out and spray down with h2o2 and others I blast with glut during water changes. I think it's going just okay on that front...
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post #2 of 129 (permalink) Old 06-18-2018, 05:32 PM Thread Starter
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I suppose I should mention the lights are 2 Orphek OR 120 (freshwater planted spectrum) and the additional light is a fluence ray 44 (greenhouse spectrum) though there's no pictures of the ray on there at this time. I replaced the psus for the orpheks with something dimmable and they're all run by a hurricanex currently. I suppose the light period is from 3->midnight but really its got a 150 minute ramp up time right now and about an hour of low light on either end of that. The fluence is only going to about 30% brightness and that with the other 2 lights is plenty, I don't know if I'm going to just keep it on there or move it to a 55 and use a diy light or 2 on this one, or a 3rd orphek maybe? It's just because I can either properly light the front corner or the back corner of the overflow with just the 2 bars, but not both... it just physically is in the way of even lighting with a bar.

I built the sump myself out of a 40B, it's just straight up bags of pumice for media.
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post #3 of 129 (permalink) Old 06-18-2018, 07:27 PM Thread Starter
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Not sure how interested anyone is in this other stuff but... the 3rd light (it's only been on there since saturday night...) Just supposed to be temporary.

The room is actually MUCH darker than it appears in the picture. phone autofux...

Controller and orphek psu... the fluence psu is on the floor currently unless I decide to make it permanent.


Currently it's using this... not very exciting.



You can't see in that last pic but 50cc/min is not enough... so this will be going on there soon.

... fleabay sold me this as a 150-SSV, but clearly there is no SSV... however I decided I'd just put a better metering valve on there and call it a day?

and while I'm at it... testing some stuff

Though only the JBL can be tried on this tank as the other 2 only come in a 16mm max size and I need 21mm. But I'll be trying them on other tanks. It's got the bubble checker area outside the ceramic filled with water to pre-soak it... I've not noticed the leak around the o-rings I've seen some people mention, though obviously there isn't high pressure gas being fed into it yet either.

Oddly the check valve on the JBL didn't work when it came, but when I took it apart and put it back together it works now... not sure how the spring/plug got unseated during shipping but seems to work now? I never actually use bubble checkers anyhow but I don't want it to just flood water back to the metering valves/flow meter.
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post #4 of 129 (permalink) Old 06-21-2018, 08:58 PM Thread Starter
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Some minor trimming / removing old growth, it was kind of hard to see in the photos but the parts of the mayaca fluviatilis that came from the LFS were atrocious and the ammania just grows stupid fast but there's not much in there that makes similarly colored leaves.



and I changed this out...


and because I am a crazy person... The last time I made a light was around 2012. I decided to go with fancier heatsinks this time just for appearances, the last light I made was like a big ole piece of aluminum scrap with psus just sitting on top and was hideous. Though I don't know if it will really go on this tank or not. I guess they will still have to have a project box or something to hold the drivers on top but the actual ac to dc psu will be hidden.
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post #5 of 129 (permalink) Old 06-25-2018, 02:37 PM Thread Starter
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I only got a little work on this tank done this weekend...



but a lot of work done on...



There's no real blue channel currently though I might split off the true blues and violets into their own channel maybe. Theres a 12 sunplus cool white channel (looks 6500kish to me but... seneye reef color temp reading is bogus), 1 channel with 6 3500k 6 5000k and 4 6500k luxeon rebels, 1 channel with 8 cyan(4 rebel no bin info/ 4exotic 495nm) 3 true blue(rebel) and 2 lime (sunplus), and 1 channel with 4 semiled hyperviolet 4 deep red / 2 far red sunplus 4 red 2 amber/orange(rebels). The red channel isn't hooked up if that wasn't obvious... waiting on some of the diodes still.

I'm not sure yet if changing the colors will be too weird without splitting out blue into a different channel.

I was just testing at 500ma to check how much voltage each string was using and see if I screwed anything up... so far so good. I made 2 of these things...
Honestly not sure I'll run anything over 500ma besides possibly the 6500k channel, we'll see I guess but it's gonna be nearing 100W each side with 500ma drivers. I suppose I could go up to 1200/1000/700/700 but it probably isn't a whole lot brighter compared to the excess heat.

The lights in the room are still on in the last pic. Also I am strongly considering ordering a sheet of lumen xt lc3 or lw3 and having pieces precut to fit these and the 2 orpheks.... but I really only need like 20$ worth of it. Would leave me with 3 2'x4' sheets and another 14"x4' piece or so. I know @gus6464 was looking at some but maybe I can find a few people who want precut pieces because I surely don't need that much and the first 10 cuts are the same price. I'm going to be the lumen xt salesman at my local apa meetings huh? :/ I suppose maybe I have a few more lights I could get pieces cut to fit...
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Last edited by Wobblebonk; 06-25-2018 at 02:49 PM. Reason: more babbling.
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post #6 of 129 (permalink) Old 06-26-2018, 11:20 PM Thread Starter
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So I haven't been using my old DSLR much because the memory card port is starting to die which makes it a pita to use. My phone was getting pretty old at this point too but I broke it for good now testing my new phone as a camera for now... will probably be some time till I invest in a new DSLR.




and this downy looking ludwigia white stem...


And video... you can totally make out my bucephelandra sp "staghorn" here :/ assuming youtube ever processes it past 360p...
gah
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post #7 of 129 (permalink) Old 06-28-2018, 06:12 PM Thread Starter
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So I did put the diy lights on this tank, at least for the moment. I need to adjust all the pwm values but I need to fix a bug in the hurricanex firmware too and while I'm at it I will probably add more than 2 time periods and 1 ramp time setting to my own if I can.

Sunplus cool white channel? 50% of 700ma I was sitting at an angle where it was blinding me while I took this... oops. I may either build some kind of shield around the fronts to block some of the spill or build/use a canopy if I decide where these lights will stay for an extended period.


Rebel whites 6 5000k 6 3500k 4 6500k looks kind of the same here maybe but distinctly more orange than the other in person... maybe my phone was doing some white balancing of some sort? 50% of 500 ma
Maybe I should have done 1 side with each channel to show them next to each other?


Cyan "green" channel 100% of 500ma


Red/hyper violet channel 100% of 500ma


Green & Red... 100% of 500ma each


I don't have a picture with everything on at this point but I thought it looks interesting enough under some different lighting. If I'm standing or sitting close the light spill is not an issue but there's definitely parts of the room where the leds are trying to kill my eyes :/ I suppose if I don't make a canopy or hood I could try attaching some optics to the wider angle leds however I feel like the ambers which should be 120 degree are some of the worst offenders.

Honestly everything will need to be run super dim if I leave all these lights on here but the spread must be pretty good :/ even running everything at half is undoubtedly way over 100 par but I need to replace my laptop screen and check for sure.
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Last edited by Wobblebonk; 06-28-2018 at 06:24 PM. Reason: ...
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post #8 of 129 (permalink) Old 06-28-2018, 08:30 PM
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4800k vs 6500k at high CRI.. Can be splitting hairs but "if" the camera used the same wb (no reason to believe they didn't) they should be able to be compared..
you can make out the lower k diodes in the light fixture.. well some.
Ther are eye differences and eye dropper differences showing slightly more blue in the 6500k photo..
It's pretty subtle and hard to say for sure..
Would show up more if exposure was lower..

As to Seneye agree, at least for you and me K temp is really inaccurate 85% of the time..
I may test that a bit more.. Seems some people are quite happy w/ it..

Other than that all I can say is ... FUN!!!

do you have the blue on w/ the cyan/lime channel above?

"A man with a watch knows what time it is. A man with two watches is never sure."
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post #9 of 129 (permalink) Old 06-28-2018, 09:38 PM Thread Starter
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Poor dead quote button.

It probably doesn't help for comparing them that I badly blurred one of the white pics.

Yes, the 3 true blue are on the same channel with the cyan/lime. I am thinking about splitting them off into a 5th channel with the hyper violet, and powering the fans with something else... or not doing that and replacing the SCW05C-12s with SCW05C-09s maybe.

I think I can fix the hurricanex issue easily enough, but I need to investigate how much space it's using up and how much is available to try to add features. If I don't run into memory issues the features I am thinking of are:

Additional times beyond a day/night. morning/evening maybe?
Possibly a different ramp timer length for each, I may just leave it as a single setting. It currently does the time settings oddly to me in that you put in the start of the sunrise and the end of the sunset period, so if I added channels do I do the start of ... noonrise? heh i don't know how to name that sunrise2? and the end of ... afternoon? Or do I have it set all of them from the start of the ramp period? Or all from the end of the ramp period?
Other things that are probably not of that much interest to anyone but me, but maybe the ability to set channel groups so that settings done to any of those apply to all of them, and a manual mode that can do 1 channel at a time, instead of all at once... or maybe a manual mode for channel groups if they're enabled, though I suppose if they were linked doing 1 at a time would also work for this.

The way the bug is, as it goes through sunrise or sunset it fixes it all, but if you play with it during night or day periods the settings don't get corrected unless you reenter that specific led's(only #8-16) settings in setup which is a total pita.
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post #10 of 129 (permalink) Old 06-29-2018, 03:30 PM Thread Starter
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I pulled out the pearl weed because it was trying to carpet and I didn't want to keep fighting it to have enough space to keep growing out the ludwigia white. Also removed the bacopa that I had in the back, it was not doing much. Did a replant on the rotala in front of the overflow (no pics... it's there just behind things for now.) Major trim on the mayaca fluviatilis and I moved it to where the pearlweed used to be. Also some other minor trimming...


no water change yet so its really cloudy...


new buce leaves are...



Not sure what I should do with this parva I'm pretty sure this river buttercup is gonna murder it if I just let it go. flamingos probably gonna have to move elsewhere too but won't get buried quite as quickly as the parva...


Legendra meeboldii red tissue culture is kinda growing finally, most of it melted theres like 5 little plantlets that made it...


I think I'm supposed to be able to get all the leaves of this homalomena humilis colored like the edge of the pacman mouth but I've no idea what conditions I need to give it to do that. It can't possibly be split the leaves in half and let them start dying. It doesn't really look unhealthy to me though and I don't have anything else in there with leaves quite like that. It's probably about time I remove that broken buce goliath leaf/staghorn magnet :/
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post #11 of 129 (permalink) Old 07-02-2018, 02:39 AM Thread Starter
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So I decided I liked how the buce was doing in here and raided a low tech fish grow out tank... (yeah they're all planted because why not)



I might just take this out I mean... Am I going to even notice it's yellower?







Uhh I think some of the val leaves are 4' long now...
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post #12 of 129 (permalink) Old 07-02-2018, 04:37 PM Thread Starter
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So...


I was running into memory issues to implement all my features until I took drastic measures like... took out all usage of sprintf because its like 2kb if it has to load that function.

Now to get it tested...
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post #13 of 129 (permalink) Old 07-02-2018, 05:33 PM
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fingers crossed..

"A man with a watch knows what time it is. A man with two watches is never sure."
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post #14 of 129 (permalink) Old 07-02-2018, 07:28 PM Thread Starter
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Sigh I guess I am nowhere with this and I give up.
Their instructions are basically connect to ftdi and you can flash it but I've tried EVERYTHING 3v signal, 5v signal, rts -> dtr dtr -> dtr I can never get any kind of response of any kind from the device.
It gets power and everything but I can't send to it whatsoever and the only thing I haven't tried is reloading the bootloader (over ftdi to a smd atmega328... I'd rather cut my balls off with a spoon.)
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post #15 of 129 (permalink) Old 07-02-2018, 07:49 PM
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Long ago I tried to read/update the firmware on a commercial ATMEL device and the lock bit was set, so I abandoned the project. If my memory serves me, I was able to read the firmware but not write any changes. Are you able to read the firmware from the device? There should be a serial port that they used when the originally flashed it. If you can read the firmware, you will be able to discern the status of the security "bit" and that would tell you if the project is doomed from the start.

I've been running my DIY lights with the TC421 and its solid for $30. You gain complete independent control of every channel and the wifi app makes it easy to test changes. The only issue with the TC is that it is always running a program, so if you want to test a new color, you need to create/modify the program at the current time to see the changes. (There is no immediate mode.) If you can live with that, its a great deal. You would have to spend alot more to get something only a little better.

I really like your tank.


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