10.8 nano(end of the EDGE) - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #1 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-17-2018, 02:04 AM Thread Starter
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10.8 nano(end of the EDGE)

So I've gotten fed up with fighting with the limitations of my fluval edge. The small access hole, the poor light distribution etc... I've decided to tear it down. Say goodbye to the edge



I've decided to try a little bigger and easier to work in tank as a replacement that will however fit on the same stand. I picked up an Aquamaxx 10.8 cuboid rimless.



The plan is similar to the original one with the edge. Although I'm going to go more Dutch style than Iwagumi this time. At this point I'll be reusing the cobalt neotherm heater. I've ordered two Chihiros C series LED lights. Overkill powerwise but they are dimmable and I felt I needed two for proper coverage. Filtration I'm thinking of just using essentially the same as the edge(AC20 with prefilter sponge).

Substrate will be 1/4-1/2" MGOPS capped with 1-1.5" of Black diamond sand blasting grit.

Aquascape is a bit more up in the air. Thinking of trying to emulate submerged tree roots with driftwood branches going down from the surface maybe.

Instead of painting the back of the tank black like I usually do I'm thinking of covering it with that craft store plastic canvas and tying flame moss or mini pellia and getting it to carpet the back wall(great shrimp nursery).

Other plants;
dwarf bolbitis, anubias nana petite, maybe a smaller java fern variety, marsilea minutae, 'monte carlo', glosso, crypt parva, RRF

Livestock; RCS, Thai microcrab, a couple of the small nerite variety(1 each of two different species so less egg laying), 6 indostomus paradoxus. I was also leaning toward some sort of schooling microfish. The problem is finding one small enough to not be much of a threat to the RCS babies(I don't care if some get eaten I just want the population to be self sustaining) but not so small that the indostomus might consider them food. Originally I was thinking about a large school of danionella dracula but a possible supplier thought the indostomus would eat them. Soooo I'm kind of stuck as to what might work at this point.

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post #2 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-17-2018, 04:33 PM
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Are you going to inject C02? Glosso and some of the others really seem to need it. The worst of which in my experience is flame moss. Without C02 it becomes inundated with algae. Even when it grows as its supposed to I dont think it will give the look you are looking for. The areas near the top of the tank will probably be a constant struggle. I have vesicularia growing on the spillway into my 11.4 and every weeks I'm pulling hair algae out of the part that sits submerged in the water. As to flame moss... I literally ripped ALL of it out of all of my tanks with the exception of one spot right under the outflow of my C02 where it covers one of the cichlid stones and gets partially shaded. I tried to do what you are talking about in one of my high tech 75's and it was just a mess. It's so stringlike already. I've wanted to try again with subwassertang, but I killed the small portion I had when I dosed some H202 on some other plants in the tank. That was a bummer.

Twin high tech 75's -
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post #3 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-17-2018, 05:20 PM Thread Starter
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Are you going to inject C02? Glosso and some of the others really seem to need it. The worst of which in my experience is flame moss. Without C02 it becomes inundated with algae. Even when it grows as its supposed to I dont think it will give the look you are looking for. The areas near the top of the tank will probably be a constant struggle. I have vesicularia growing on the spillway into my 11.4 and every weeks I'm pulling hair algae out of the part that sits submerged in the water. As to flame moss... I literally ripped ALL of it out of all of my tanks with the exception of one spot right under the outflow of my C02 where it covers one of the cichlid stones and gets partially shaded. I tried to do what you are talking about in one of my high tech 75's and it was just a mess. It's so stringlike already. I've wanted to try again with subwassertang, but I killed the small portion I had when I dosed some H202 on some other plants in the tank. That was a bummer.
Not sure about CO2 at this point. Never used it before. Yeah I'm not sure about the flame moss. The mini pellia might work better anyways. Although I love subwassertang .

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post #4 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-18-2018, 05:51 PM Thread Starter
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Still struggling a bit with how to scape this. I was originally thinking of a partially submerged stump so it would kind of look a bit like mangrove roots, but I don't know if it would look right. Scouring websites for interesting pieces of driftwood to use.

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post #5 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-19-2018, 03:33 PM
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might want to look in the classifieds. Theres a guy selling a ton of spiderwood I recently bought from and theres a lot of variety.

Also take a look at TanninAquatics...they have some palm branches and bark/etc. that might accent well if you are going for a mangrove or submerged waters edge deal.

Vin
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post #6 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-21-2018, 03:07 AM Thread Starter
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So I'm leaning a bit in another direction(at the moment). Thinking of playing with a windswept dead tree clinging to a rocky outcropping.

The planting would be

might try a subwassertang "moss" wall on the back. This would provide lots of cover for the shrimp, but would likely diminish the contrast/impact of the rest of the scape because it being a wall of green and all.............hmmmm

The low end of the slope would be Crypt parva
higher sections would be Marsilea minuta
in between the rocks and exposed roots Monte carlo maybe?

some petite/dwarf variety of Buce as the "canopy" at the ends/tops of the branches?

RRF to provide some more habitat for the shrimp and micro crabs. Not sure how that will affect the "look" though.

decisions......

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post #7 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-25-2018, 06:46 PM Thread Starter
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slowly making progress.

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post #8 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-01-2018, 11:24 PM Thread Starter
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Bonsai style driftwood. Moss tree maybe? It's pretty big and obviously dominates the tank. It's pretty close to touching the tank back and side so I'm not sure if it's too out of scale for this tank. If I use it the idea would be to add some rock in the roots to make it look like it was growing over a single buried rock. The mound around the trunk would be the high spot with the sand sloping down to the front left.

Crypt parva in the low "vally" section. Marsilea minuta on the upper bank in the back. An attempt at Monte Carlo on the top right of the bank behind the trunk. Maybe mini pellia on the roots/rocks themselves? I was think of using one of the mini buces as the foliage on the branch sections instead of moss, but I'm not sure how they'd deal with the higher light being so close to the surface. Also with the tree only 1/2" below the surface there might not be enough space to use RRF without the roots getting caught up in the branch tops.

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post #9 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-01-2018, 11:53 PM
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Yeah, the red rood floaters would probably get caught up in the branches and plants on the driftwood. Despite that, wow, what a great piece of wood! It might be big in the tank, but I say go for it anyway. Can't wait to see how it comes out!


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post #10 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-04-2018, 11:08 AM Thread Starter
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Added a piece of seiryu stone to offset the tree. Built up the bank in the back a bit, might need some more. Transplanted my crypt parva from the broken down Edge.



Still debating on the moss wall and whether that's the best way to disguise the cords etc... running behind the tank.

Ordered a bunch of new plants to fill the scape out from Bartohog. More C.parva, M.minuta, and Monte Carlo to fill in with what I have. Can't wait!

Still waiting for the dimmers to arrive for the lights :/........must learn patience

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post #11 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-05-2018, 12:57 AM Thread Starter
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transplanted my Marsilea and Monte carlo(anemic as it is).

Still having trouble finding a source of danionella. I may end up going with ember tetras and hoping for the best in terms of shrimp reproduction.

Also need to do some more research on sources for microverts to seed the tank with. The only place I can typically get things like aquatic annelids are scientific school supply places the Carolina Biological or Wards.

In the past when I've put blackworms in a tank(even a dirted one) they disappear after a couple weeks even if there isn't anything in the tank that eats them(maybe can't take the warm temps). I'm not sure if tubifex would survive long term either.

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post #12 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-06-2018, 07:05 AM
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Looking really good
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post #13 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-06-2018, 10:58 AM Thread Starter
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Looking really good
Thanks, it's coming along.



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post #14 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-06-2018, 01:34 PM
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Now that is what I call a tree! What kind of moss are you planning to use for it? I've tried both christmas moss and weeping moss on my tree. They both filled out quickly especially with co2 injection but they will need to be cleaned periodically to remain free of algae, being so close to the light source.
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post #15 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-07-2018, 02:40 PM Thread Starter
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Now that is what I call a tree! What kind of moss are you planning to use for it? I've tried both christmas moss and weeping moss on my tree. They both filled out quickly especially with co2 injection but they will need to be cleaned periodically to remain free of algae, being so close to the light source.
I'm playing around with some mini pellia at the moment, but what I really want to use is some mini buce's that have a mat like growth pattern. If they don't get overrun by algae because of being so close to the surface they'll require a lot less maintenance than the mosses.

Ammonia=0,Nitrite=0, Nitrate=0-5ppm TDS=117. I'm assuming all the plants I added are soaking up the nutrients. Water is a little cloudy(whitish). I replaced the stock GAC bag with one of Purigen to eliminate any discoloration from the driftwood. I'm thinking I may have to boost GH before I add shrimp. The plan is for some Red Rilli, Thai micro crabs, and maybe a few Tangerine Tigers.

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