My 26 Bow - The Planted Tank Forum
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-21-2010, 10:58 PM Thread Starter
Algae Grower
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Dover, NH
Posts: 11
Talking My 26 Bow

Current FTS:


Tank: 26 Gallon Bow Front AGA

Lighting: 24 inch T5HO w/ a GE 6500k.

Filtration: AC110 w/ filter floss.

Circulation: Hydor Koralia 750.

Heater: Tetrafin H100 100 watt.

Dosing & Top-off: Dionized water top offs once a week and no a homemade fertilizer mixture.

[COLOR=red]Substrate[COLOR=black]: CaribSea Tahitian Moon Sand

Maintenance: Wipe down front and sides with Magfloat and prune plant leaves weekly. Every other week I change 5 gallons (~20%).

Feeding: I feed a mix of tropical flake, Tetramin I believe, live brine shrimp, and frozen bloodworms on rare occasion.

My Plants
Anubias barteri ‘Nana’
Anubias barteri ‘Golden Nana’
Anubias lanceolata
Anubias gigantea
Microsorum pteropus
Microsorum pteropus ‘Windelov’

My Fish
Trigonostigma heteromorpha (Harlequin Rasbora)
Hyphessobrycon herbertaxelrodi (Black Neon Tetra)
Hyphessobrycon bentosi (Ornate Tetra)
Hemigrammus rhodostomus (Rummy-Nose Tetra)
Paracheirodon innesi (Neon Tetra)
Puntius titteya (Cherry Barb)

My Algae Eaters
Crossocheilus siamensis (Siamese Algae Eater)
Neritina natalensis ‘Zebra’ (Zebra Nerite Snail)
Neritina natalensis ‘Tracked’ (Tracked Nerite Snail)

Last edited by Loving Vascularity; 07-26-2011 at 08:26 PM.
Loving Vascularity is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-22-2010, 04:27 AM Thread Starter
Algae Grower
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Dover, NH
Posts: 11
Yellowed Anubias leaf


Splotchy Anubias


Grey and blotchy Microsorum leaves



Some other pictures


Loving Vascularity is offline  
post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-22-2010, 04:49 AM
Honeycomb Master
 
Centromochlus's Avatar
 
PTrader: (122/100%)
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 6,770
Quote:
Substrate: CaribSea Tahitian Moon Sand Plan on replacing it, perhaps with ADA?
No point unless you're planning on adding some stem plants. The ferns/anubias don't care about substrate nutrients as much as stem plants do.

Quote:
Filtration: AC110 w/ filter floss. Want to place some peat moss to reduce pH and make the water softer, but do people actually do this?
I don't think many people here add peat moss to their filters... but i may be wrong. I hear it's kind of messy. What is your reason for wanting to lower the pH?

Quote:
Dosing & Top-off: Tap water top offs once a week and no dosing. Plan on adding a liquid fertilizer when I figure out what the hell I'm doing, any suggestions?
I'd recommend dry dosing. It's a lot cheaper than liquid ferts, and works just as well.
You can purchase dry fert packages from LA Aquaria or Green Leaf Aquariums (GLA), for example. Then read up on this thread to create a dosing schedule/amount. It's kind of confusing at first, but you will save a LOT of money in the long-run.

However, if you were to go the dry-dosing route, you'd need to do a 50% water change every week to "reset" the fertilizers in the water, since you're essentially giving the plants more nutrients than they actually need.

Quote:
• 6 Crossocheilus siamensis (Siamese Algae Eater)
That's a LOT of SAE's for a 26g. They'll eventually get too big for your tank.

Quote:
What are wrong with my plants? (See The Story)
Agreed, it's likely a nutrient deficiency. See above comment.
However, it looks like some of the brown spots on your leaves might be diatoms. Otoclinus catfish ("otos") love this type of algae. I would definitely pick a few of these little guys up to keep your tank clean. They're good for every tank! Also, the leaf in picture #4 just looks like it's dying... you can trim it off. It likely won't bounce back.

Quote:
Does anyone have a recommendation for a substrate, I was thinking ADA?
I love ADA Amazonia I aquasoil. It gets pricey for larger aquariums, but since you won't need much for a 26g, i'd go for it. I have it in my 90g and it's definitely "the best of the best" IMO. Worth every penny!

Quote:
Should I CO2?
Never hurts, but it's really up to you. You're right, your current plants don't really need Co2, but every plant will benefit from it. However, i would first start with getting the fertilization on the right track, then look into a pressurized co2 system.

Quote:
I would like a tall plant for the background after the substrate switch, something to grow up the back, perhaps around the 2' mark for height, maybe a different color then the Microsorum and Anubias. Suggestions?
Vals would be nice, but those are green. Maybe rotala rotundifolia? It's fairly easy, and get's semi-red under good lightning. Also, ludwigia repens is an easy red plant.


On a side note, i really like your scape. I have never seen anything else like it before. The fern/anubias "mountain" is a cool idea.
Hope this helps, and welcome to the forum!
Centromochlus is offline  
 
post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-22-2010, 06:00 AM
Planted Tank Guru
 
PTrader: (84/100%)
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 21,015
I really like your aquascape the way it is now. Adding stem plants might just introduce more problems for you. Right now you have medium lighting, so you need to fertilize the plants so they can grow as fast as the light is making them grow. Or, since you have only low light plants you could add a single layer of fiberglass insect screen (from Home Depot, for example) between the light and the tank, to reduce the light down to low light, then the fish waste might be all the plants need.

I would definitely replace the Siamese algae eaters with Otocinclus, which are a much better size for that tank.

If you want to try CO2, the plants would be helped a lot by a DIY CO2 system, since you don't have high light.

I would also replace the Koralia with the smallest one, and then run it continuously. Good water circulation is always good.

Hoppy
Hoppy is offline  
post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-22-2010, 03:29 PM
Planted Tank Guru
 
Hilde's Avatar
 
PTrader: (1/100%)
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Mableton, GA
Posts: 6,255
Raising the quality of the light means more nutrients. For ferts would dose with Seachem Trace or Gh booster. Can buy Seachem Trace here with no shipping cost. Can buy Gh booster here with $6 shipping cost (best to double check the shipping cost).

I see no reason for you to change the substrate. You could just add a tall Crypt like the balance and put 2 API root tabs around it.

As to lowering the ph I found in my 29G best way to lower the ph is when doing water use 1 bottle of distilled water with tap water. The peat didn't do anything.
Hilde is offline  
post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-22-2010, 05:52 PM Thread Starter
Algae Grower
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Dover, NH
Posts: 11
@AzFishKid
Would you consider Rotala rotundifolia a stem plant, because if it is then won’t I need some kind of substrate fertilizer? I would put peat moss in there to reduce the pH for the fishes, the fish like a pH around 6.5, I’ve been buffering to that, but I hate using buffer so much, I feel like it has as much negative as positive, including buffer creep, which is way worse than salt creep in my salt water tanks. Why give the plants excess nutrients, they are plants that don’t really need that much in the first place; what if I was to take the numbers suggested and divide it by 4 or so and do 20% changes instead, 50% is just too radical for me as well as labor intensive (I didn’t mention it, but I also take care of three salt water aquaria and work 60 hours a week). Dry dosing does sound like a good idea though, but maybe not to the extreme the thread advises. I love my SAEs and understand that I will have to trade them in at some point, right now they are around the 2-3” mark, but as soon as they get to 4” I’ll trade them all in for some oto cats; I’m just really attached (they survived through many a tank move and many African cichlid tanks). I agree that the brown spots are diatoms on the old leaves, but on the new leaves it is something different, I think it is just the plant not having enough nutrients. Do I need the aquasoil if I’m not doing stemmed plants? Pressurized CO2 in the far future it is then. I do like the Rotala, not so much on the Ludwigia. The Microsorum/Anubias mountain came out of years and years of African cichlid raising, I had all this rock and nothing to do with it, the rocks have tunnel through it as well so the SAEs zoom through the rockwork and hide in the cave at the bottom, I can’t wait for it to really grow in well.

@Hoppy
Thanks for the compliment! I think dry fertilizers is the way I’m going to go, CO2 can wait. I don’t like the idea of placing a screen on my tank; I love the look of the Versa-top looking down on my plants and fish. Otos for SAEs will be in the future probably a few months down the road. DIY CO2 would be a little too much work for me, I have three salt water tanks as well and time is of the essence (not to mention my girlfriend complains when I spend too much time with my hands in the tanks). The water is pretty ripping without the Koralia. I just use it to kick up the fish waste so it can get sucked up by the AC110.

@Hilde
I’ll check out the fertilizers, I’m still a fertilizer noob. I do like the black sand, but is Rotala a stemmed plant that needs substrate fertilizer? I have a RO/DI unit I could use, but that would just give me 7.0 water, I’m looking for 6.5. If peat doesn’t work, does anyone have any other suggestions? Perhaps some HCl, would the extra chloride be rough on the fish; maybe HSO4 (sulfuric acid) so the sulfur can be used by the plants. Input would be appreciated!

Tanks:

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Loving Vascularity is offline  
post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-22-2010, 06:20 PM
Planted Tank Guru
 
Hilde's Avatar
 
PTrader: (1/100%)
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Mableton, GA
Posts: 6,255
Quote:
Originally Posted by Loving Vascularity View Post
Would you consider Rotala rotundifolia a stem plant, because if it is then won’t I need some kind of substrate fertilizer? I would put peat moss in there to reduce the pH for the fishes, the fish like a pH around 6.5, I’ve been buffering to that.
Yes that is a stem plant. I am finding it a difficult plant to grow. I think it would need higher light than you have. Check out the crypts, so many and some have color.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Loving Vascularity View Post
I’m looking for 6.5. ph. If peat doesn’t work, does anyone have any other suggestions? Perhaps some HCl, would the extra chloride be rough on the fish; maybe HSO4 (sulfuric acid) so the sulfur can be used by the plants.
Why do you want 6.5 ph. That isn't necessary unless getting special fish like dwarf cichlids. I bet you pet store doesn't have that ph. Have read when trying to adjust the ph with chemical you can get a yo yo affect. In fact at this tread I started you'll see the ph is not that important and trying to adjust is like chasing your tail.
Hilde is offline  
post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-22-2010, 07:47 PM Thread Starter
Algae Grower
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Dover, NH
Posts: 11
@Hilde

I'm not a big fan of the Crypts, they look too much like the Anubias and Microsorum. I was thinking about red Cabomba. The LFS buffers to 6.5, that's where I got the idea, but I'm not a fan. I'll have to purchase myself a gH test kit, I've known for a while that I needed one.

I was also thinking about purchasing a plant for the front of the tank, for foreground, perhaps Sagittaria, HC, or Riccia. Does anyone have any experience with this and what will I need to do to my tank, other than fertilization, both dry and substrate?

Tanks:

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Loving Vascularity is offline  
post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-22-2010, 08:14 PM
Honeycomb Master
 
Centromochlus's Avatar
 
PTrader: (122/100%)
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 6,770
Quote:
Would you consider Rotala rotundifolia a stem plant, because if it is then won’t I need some kind of substrate fertilizer?
Rotala rotundifolia is a pretty hardy stem plant. If you shove some root tabs into your current substrate, they should be fine.

Quote:
I would put peat moss in there to reduce the pH for the fishes, the fish like a pH around 6.5, I’ve been buffering to that, but I hate using buffer so much, I feel like it has as much negative as positive, including buffer creep, which is way worse than salt creep in my salt water tanks.
Like Hilde said, most fish can adapt to nearly any pH level. You shouldn't need to change your pH to suit the "proper levels" that a certain fish should live in. There's really no point IMO unless you are going to have some super special/rare/sensitive fish.

Quote:
Why give the plants excess nutrients, they are plants that don’t really need that much in the first place; what if I was to take the numbers suggested and divide it by 4 or so and do 20% changes instead, 50% is just too radical for me as well as labor intensive (I didn’t mention it, but I also take care of three salt water aquaria and work 60 hours a week).
Dosing in excess is just what the EI method is about. Instead of supplying the plants with less nutrients that they will use, the EI method instead says to dose more than they can use. It's impossible to find the exact amount that they need, so IMO it's better to dose more than it is to dose less. However, if you want, do try dosing less if that's easier for you, and share your results with us-- some nutrients are better than no nutrients at all.

Quote:
Do I need the aquasoil if I’m not doing stemmed plants?
Absolutely not. Some easy stem plants should grow just fine in your current substrate, as long as you use root tabs for substrate nutrients.

Quote:
I agree that the brown spots are diatoms on the old leaves, but on the new leaves it is something different, I think it is just the plant not having enough nutrients.
Correct.
Centromochlus is offline  
post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-22-2010, 09:20 PM
Planted Tank Guru
 
Hilde's Avatar
 
PTrader: (1/100%)
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Mableton, GA
Posts: 6,255
Quote:
Originally Posted by Loving Vascularity View Post
I was thinking about red Cabomba.
I was also thinking about purchasing a plant for the front of the tank, for foreground, perhaps Sagittaria, HC, or Riccia.
Don't think the Red Cabomba will grow but the green should be okay with API root tabs Seachem excel. Sags are pretty easy to grow. I believe HC and Ricca would need CSM+B. If you do the diy be prepared to a slight smell of brewery. The yeast has an odor.

The LFS buffers to 6.5, that's where I got the idea. Is their ph 6.5. Store I have seen them has ph of 7.4.

@vascularity
are you old body builder for vascularity, in body building, is the condition of having prominent, visible veins.
Hilde is offline  
post #11 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-23-2010, 05:02 AM Thread Starter
Algae Grower
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Dover, NH
Posts: 11
@AzFishKid
-Well, Rotala rotundifolia it is then, now I have to find it...
-I like my fish to be very comfortable, I saw someone on here using a filter with peat pellets to reduce the pH, I thought it would be a nice touch, especially seeing how my city water is probably pretty high (8.0).
-I’ll experiment, I am a scientist after all (marine and freshwater biologist to be specific), and I’ll tell you all about the trouble I’ve started. I’ll start out with a fourth of what WoEffenxXx suggested, seeing how his tank is about twice my size. I’ll probably premix all of the fertilizers together so I have a mix of KNO3, KH2PO4, trace, and GH booster, so all I have to do is add a predetermined amount, maybe I will even dilute the mixture after to a water bottle so I have to add x ounces of the mixture to fertilize for the day. I will dose a portion of the material and see how long it takes to be absorbed by my plants (nitrate and phosphate test kit). If it takes y days I know to divide x by y to give me a daily regimen (so the nutrients are used up daily). There doesn’t need to be an excess of nutrients, just the right amount.
- I may just do the root tabs then, it would be a pain to move all my rock around, it would never be the same.

@Hilde
CSM-B will probably be in the dosing as the trace. Don’t want a DIY CO2. I raised brine shrimp off yeast for a while, awful, awful smell. Vascularity would be pertaining to the plants we are growing; they are all vascular plants aka higher plants (not algae).

Tanks:

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Loving Vascularity is offline  
post #12 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-24-2010, 07:10 AM Thread Starter
Algae Grower
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Dover, NH
Posts: 11
Another question, can you cut the loose roots of Microsorum off, I have long trails of it floating in the tank, they are already attached to the rock work and I wouldn't be cutting it all off, It just looks awful with floating roots everywhere.

Tanks:

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Loving Vascularity is offline  
post #13 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-24-2010, 07:40 AM
Planted Tank Enthusiast
 
PTrader: (10/100%)
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Chicago
Posts: 662
Quote:
Originally Posted by Loving Vascularity View Post
@AzFishKid
-I’ll probably premix all of the fertilizers together so I have a mix of KNO3, KH2PO4, trace, and GH booster, so all I have to do is add a predetermined amount ...
I may be mistaken, as I am new to ferts and such, but I think you're not supposed to add KNO3, KH2PO4 and Trace all at the same time; something about the iron not being able to be absorbed or what not? This may be only if you use CSM+B but, like I said, I'm new to this too, so maybe an expert could shed some knowledge on this.
SgtPeppersLHC is offline  
post #14 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-13-2011, 09:11 PM Thread Starter
Algae Grower
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Dover, NH
Posts: 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by SgtPeppersLHC View Post
I may be mistaken, as I am new to ferts and such, but I think you're not supposed to add KNO3, KH2PO4 and Trace all at the same time; something about the iron not being able to be absorbed or what not? This may be only if you use CSM+B but, like I said, I'm new to this too, so maybe an expert could shed some knowledge on this.
Can an expert please shed some light on this.

Tanks:

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Loving Vascularity is offline  
post #15 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-13-2011, 09:26 PM
Wanabe BKK Herder
 
Betta Maniac's Avatar
 
PTrader: (17/100%)
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: IHella<3Oakland
Posts: 2,159
Beautiful set up!

If you replace the substrate wit ADA, then the peat moss in the filter becomes moot, as the ADA will have the same effect on your water (or that’s certainly been my experience with it).


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Betta Maniac is offline  
Reply

Tags
None

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the The Planted Tank Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome