ADA 60P Dutch Style Tank - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-17-2018, 08:43 PM Thread Starter
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ADA 60P Dutch Style Tank

Hi All...

I started the hobbies since last year, I am wondering if i can get some advice from people how to do dutch style and make the plants color pops.

Hopefully I am doing this right,critic or suggestion are welcome.

My new tank,just currently setup since last year,start planting 3 days ago.

Below is the picture after 3 days of planting.



Equipment:
ADA 60P
Fluval 206
BML dutch Style
CO2 Paintball
Substrate ADA

Ferts EI dosing mixed with PPS-Pro.

Im not good a setting up a landscape,therefore suggestion are welcome for me to move/switch the plants location(foreground,mid or Background)

How do I make the red plant more red?
Thank you.

Updated 1/22
Leaning on micro with extra iron. The patanal is start turning red as ludwigia red.



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Last edited by dealend; 01-25-2018 at 08:18 AM. Reason: Updated
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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-17-2018, 08:44 PM Thread Starter
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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-17-2018, 09:01 PM
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I would recommend doing some research on the rule of thirds so you can adjust where your focal points are. I have repositioned my 29g scape many times over the process of turning it fully dutch. Theres some videos on youtube for dutch style tutorials so you can get your focal points and use carpet and foreground plants as "walkways" to guide peoples attention to your focal points.
As far as getting the plants a nice vibrant red, I am still experimenting with my EI dosing method to try to get the most color. I just changed it up some, a lot of what I have read says that Red plants show more color and do better with lower amounts of nitrogen. For the last week I have gone from macros and micros 3x to macros 2x a week, micros 3x a week. I always dose extra Iron as well. I have seen some improvement. Just get a log and keep track of your dosing so you can switch up a little here and there and find your best results.
It's already a nice looking set up, can't wait to see the progress.

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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-18-2018, 05:17 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks Kole for the info. I read the website about rule of third, visualing the plant position beetween left ,middle and right.

How do u you lower the nitrogen?
Eliminate the fish poop or dead leaves?
Yeah im planning to lean on micro as well.
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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-18-2018, 05:48 AM
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Quote:
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Thanks Kole for the info. I read the website about rule of third, visualing the plant position beetween left ,middle and right.

How do u you lower the nitrogen?
Eliminate the fish poop or dead leaves?
Yeah im planning to lean on micro as well.
Yeah, i didnt know the rule of thirds and when I did I noticed my ugly filter intake was a focal point, lol. I took masking tape and turned the front of my tank into a tic-tac-toe board for visual comparison.
And I am going lean on macros, not micros. I use NilocG Macros and Micros and one of the ferts in the macros is nitrogen. Thats how I am lowering my nitrogen levels.Iron is in the micros which is one of the main things that give red plants their red color, so I wouldnt go too lean on micros. I dose extra iron ON TOP of the micros (I dose for a 50g tank on a 29g 2x a week for Seachem Iron).
You could also lower your nitrogen with heavy nitrogen feeding plants. Floaters are a good way to reduce nitrogen but they can drown out some of the light neccessary for a dutch style scape. Starting lean with ferts and gradually increasing with plant needs, keeping a log book, and experimenting with different dosing combinations is the best advice I can give. It takes some time to find the balance between what the different plants in your tank require. I'm still experimenting with my dosing after several months. I know what to dose to get everything growing insanely fast, but then the red plants suffer. Its a crazy balancing act but a lot of fun and gives a sense of pride when you find that "golden" combo.
I have also noticed with my Rotala Macrandra and Rotala Walichi that they get a more intense red the taller I let them grow and as they get closer to the light so PAR levels are important as well.

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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-22-2018, 07:44 AM Thread Starter
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Next Monday is going to be 2nd week.

Leaning on micro extra iron,less macro. Can tell the patanal is start growing super red.



And here is the top look.


Algae and snail free at the moment.
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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-13-2018, 02:08 AM
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any updates?

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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-13-2018, 02:24 AM
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All in all tank is looking very good in a short amount of time.

That Pantanal with red centers is not looking better. In my experience, one step ahead of stunting.

When it's happy, want to see even color throughout the top of the plant.

I doubt you want to lower N. If anything, increase it. Starving plants is not good for color, feeding plants well is.

Curious at to your lighting? In my experience, color is result of high light, not low N.

Looking forward to seeing an update. You have a really nice start there.
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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-25-2018, 07:57 AM Thread Starter
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UPDATED 3.24.2018

Tank faced some algae but its manageable. Tank was neglected for quite sometimes, busy with life and other stuff.








Im still learning how to reduce N. Does anyone know how?

Added 2 pairs of orange Sunkist molly as my algae cleaner.

BTW the tanks hasn't been fertilized for 2 weeks, but the color seems like popping up.

Any advice how to make the color pops or reducing nitrogen would help me or other to understand. TIA.
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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-28-2018, 08:53 PM Thread Starter
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@Greggz
What is considered as a high light? Does color temperature playing a role with color of the plant?

Thank you for the input.
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post #11 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-29-2018, 01:21 AM
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Quote:
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@Greggz
What is considered as a high light? Does color temperature playing a role with color of the plant?

Thank you for the input.
That's a question that has no conclusive answer. In my opinion, high light is between 80 & 110 PAR at the substrate (Above 110 is extremely high light). Others may feel differently.

And in my opinion, light drives color. Take the same plant under 50 PAR and 90 PAR, and there will be a world of difference in color. I documented that a few times in my journal in my own tank.

As to color temperature, in my experience it does make a difference. Dennis Wong does a nice job explaining this at his new web site. And I saw it in my own tank when I experimented with heavily colored bulbs.

And I noticed above you keep referencing lowering your Nitrates. What is your Nitrate level, and why do you want to lower it?

I know some plants will show great color when starved for N. But not on a long term basis. It's a distress signal. I've never seen a tank be successful in the long term limiting N and starving plants. The healthiest most colorful tanks I have seen have plenty of N and healthy (not distressed) plants.

As always, just my opinion from my own personal experience.

And by the way, I really like the tank, coming along great.
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post #12 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-29-2018, 02:28 AM
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Flower garden style in an ADA tank. Amano would be turning in his grave!

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post #13 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-17-2018, 05:02 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greggz View Post
That's a question that has no conclusive answer. In my opinion, high light is between 80 & 110 PAR at the substrate (Above 110 is extremely high light). Others may feel differently.

And in my opinion, light drives color. Take the same plant under 50 PAR and 90 PAR, and there will be a world of difference in color. I documented that a few times in my journal in my own tank.

As to color temperature, in my experience it does make a difference. Dennis Wong does a nice job explaining this at his new web site. And I saw it in my own tank when I experimented with heavily colored bulbs.

And I noticed above you keep referencing lowering your Nitrates. What is your Nitrate level, and why do you want to lower it?

I know some plants will show great color when starved for N. But not on a long term basis. It's a distress signal. I've never seen a tank be successful in the long term limiting N and starving plants. The healthiest most colorful tanks I have seen have plenty of N and healthy (not distressed) plants.

As always, just my opinion from my own personal experience.

And by the way, I really like the tank, coming along great.
sorry for the late reply, had some thing came up for a past few week.
i used to have plenty of floater , floating around on top. if i'm not mistakenly floater suck all the nitrate, by the time when the floater expanding i did notice the color of the plant also changed more reddish. so i do believe of what people said, by reducing the nitrate you will also get the plant more red.

yeah i saw the new website made by Dennis the 2 hours for aquarist, haven't gotten any time to read all of them.

Thank you for the nice comment. will update more in the future.
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post #14 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-24-2018, 05:17 AM Thread Starter
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Update 5.23.18

Some plants melted, not sure why. Pulling out the melted plant.

The kimberly somehow turned out really nice pink/purple.

Picture taken with old phone.



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post #15 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-25-2018, 07:32 AM
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Very nice tank you got Danny. I like it.
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