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post #76 of 124 (permalink) Old 06-17-2017, 02:36 AM
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Now just need to play love potion #9 loud enough for them to hear and your set.

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post #77 of 124 (permalink) Old 06-17-2017, 06:32 PM Thread Starter
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So I got the salty shrimp gh+ and my RO unit will be here today. Just feel I should do better water parameters as I think my ph is a bit too high as it reads between 7.4 to 7.6 or so and the kh needs to be lowered as it's at 3.5. Plus I like how the SS gh+ is tailored towards shrimp. This way I can get a lower tds and better overall parameters. I will not be doing all RO all at once but slowly with each new small 10% wc. This is obvious.

Also started using Bacter AE to help with the bio film since I do not feel the tank was up long enough to have a good enough one built up

A pic I took today with a group hanging out foraging.



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post #78 of 124 (permalink) Old 06-18-2017, 04:13 AM
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Just an FYI it's very dangerous to use RO water with only Gh and no buffering substrate.
With no KH, the ph will fluctuate and can quickly kill your shrimp. A buffering substrate or Kh of 1-2 helps keep the ph in check, however without a buffering substrate it's difficult to get the ph down...

Shrimp look beautiful though!
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post #79 of 124 (permalink) Old 06-18-2017, 04:37 AM Thread Starter
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Just an FYI it's very dangerous to use RO water with only Gh and no buffering substrate.
With no KH, the ph will fluctuate and can quickly kill your shrimp. A buffering substrate or Kh of 1-2 helps keep the ph in check, however without a buffering substrate it's difficult to get the ph down...

Shrimp look beautiful though!


Is the case where the ph can fluctuate like that with a kh of 0 just for the first 24-48 hours or so? I do understand that with 0 kh can cause the ph to fluctuate but doesn't it stabilize after the couple days?


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post #80 of 124 (permalink) Old 06-18-2017, 04:32 PM
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KH determines the speed and magnitude of the effect of acids such as the CO2 you are injecting or the humic acid from those cholla logs or leaves. Your pH could plummet and rise rapidly enough to be harmful.

The shrimp are used to somewhere between 3.5-4 dKH, but if you wanted to lower that, I'd cut your tap 50/50 with RO and then remineralize

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post #81 of 124 (permalink) Old 06-19-2017, 01:31 AM Thread Starter
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KH determines the speed and magnitude of the effect of acids such as the CO2 you are injecting or the humic acid from those cholla logs or leaves. Your pH could plummet and rise rapidly enough to be harmful.

The shrimp are used to somewhere between 3.5-4 dKH, but if you wanted to lower that, I'd cut your tap 50/50 with RO and then remineralize

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I am going to do exactly that a 50/50 ro/tap. That will bring my KH to 1.75 since its now 3.5 exactly. Going to do just 10% of this 50/50 each week so will take a while.


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post #82 of 124 (permalink) Old 06-28-2017, 09:32 PM
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How are we doing? =)

Did you notice much of a difference switching to ThriveS? Got some friends I've given some shrimp to that are too freaked to dose ferts, so if it's been similar enough for you, I'd like to recommend it to them

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post #83 of 124 (permalink) Old 06-28-2017, 10:35 PM Thread Starter
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How are we doing? =)

Did you notice much of a difference switching to ThriveS? Got some friends I've given some shrimp to that are too freaked to dose ferts, so if it's been similar enough for you, I'd like to recommend it to them

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I did not notice a plant health or growth difference as far as going from NilocG standard EI ferts to going to ThriveS. All of the plants remain absolutely healthy and in fact am due for another trimming so will be doing another RAOK coming from the Shrimp tank in the next couple days. What I do like is I noticed it keeps the tds lower than using his standard DIY EI Liquid ferts which is what I was using. DIY EI Liquid Fertilizer| Premium Aquarium Fertilizer | NilocG Aquatics

I do not have exact numbers but I now have a MUCH easier time keeping the tds under 200 by using ThriveS compared to the standard EI Ferts. In addition to the lower tds by using the ThriveS but also is much easier to keep the nitrates and phosphates low. Its much easier to keep the Nitrates under 10 and Phosphates under 1 as in fact you have to Overdose ThriveS to go above those numbers. Reason being is they have a lower amount per dose than say your standard EI. Perfect for a Shrimp tank.

To give you an example it was required to do a 10% wc for me each week to keep the tds under 200. But now my tds is never over 180 since using the ThriveS. AGain I think a big reason is due to the lower macro levels dosing the ThriveS compared to standard EI. I am sure I could of cut down Macros from 1/2 EI twice a week to 1/4 EI twice a week and get close to the same results? And then do the same with the Micros. But instead of worrying about that I just do half the ThriveS recommended dosage twice a week and call it good. Here are the NPK numbers for the DIY Liquid EI compared to the ThriveS.

ThriveS N 0.43%, P 0.062%, K 4.75%
DIY Liquid EI N 7.5ppm, P 1.3ppm, K 4.27ppm

I will let @Aqua99 chime in as he also uses ThriveS for his many shrimp tanks and in fact he recommended it to me. So he has been using it much longer than I also with great results.
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post #84 of 124 (permalink) Old 06-29-2017, 08:56 PM Thread Starter
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Well just a little update. Not much to update really. So I dropped in a couple veggie sticks with calcium yesterday and was able to get a good count of the CRS in the tank as most came out to feed. I counted 18 of the 20 that should be in there. Am sure the other two are there but were just hiding so that was a good sign. I switched over from EI ferts to the ThriveS and the plants seem to enjoy it just as much as the regular EI ferts. I also cut the light intensity to about half which is giving me about 40ish par at sub. Reason being is I was starting to get some Stag Algae on some plants and by running only 15ppm of co2 the light was just too strong at 80-90 par at sub. By cutting it back to 50% no new algae has appeared and the plants are still growing like crazy. So my parameters are as follows.

PH 7.2(No co2)
PH 6.7(co2)
co2 15ppm
KH 2.5
GH 5.0
Nitrates between 5-10ppm
TDS 150-180

Really liking the ThriveS as it has less Nitrates and Phosphates than your regular EI dosing. This helps keep the levels low much easier and the plants are just as healthy. What I like about having floating plants like frogbit is they are a good indication of overall plant health and they sure are healthy(Thank you @natemcnutty ) Still looking for the first berried CRS.

Still slowly bringing the KH down which will be exactly 1.75 eventually with my half RO and half tap mix. Just been doing mostly top offs getting it down.


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post #85 of 124 (permalink) Old 06-29-2017, 09:08 PM
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Well just a little update. Not much to update really. So I dropped in a couple veggie sticks with calcium yesterday and was able to get a good count of the CRS in the tank as most came out to feed. I counted 18 of the 20 that should be in there. Am sure the other two are there but were just hiding so that was a good sign. I switched over from EI ferts to the ThriveS and the plants seem to enjoy it just as much as the regular EI ferts. I also cut the light intensity to about half which is giving me about 40ish par at sub. Reason being is I was starting to get some Stag Algae on some plants and by running only 15ppm of co2 the light was just too strong at 80-90 par at sub. By cutting it back to 50% no new algae has appeared and the plants are still growing like crazy. So my parameters are as follows.

PH 7.2(No co2)
PH 6.7(co2)
co2 15ppm
KH 2.5
GH 5.0
Nitrates between 5-10ppm
TDS 150-180

Really liking the ThriveS as it has less Nitrates and Phosphates than your regular EI dosing. This helps keep the levels low much easier and the plants are just as healthy. What I like about having floating plants like frogbit is they are a good indication of overall plant health and they sure are healthy(Thank you @natemcnutty ) Still looking for the first berried CRS.

Still slowly bringing the KH down which will be exactly 1.75 eventually with my half RO and half tap mix. Just been doing mostly top offs getting it down.
This guy has some good info. Been watching his vids to get my tank ready.
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post #86 of 124 (permalink) Old 06-29-2017, 09:40 PM
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Hey Clownplanted,

Got my TDS down to 193, no more 520, CRS are more active now, plants are doing better also. I cut ferts to 3ml EI one day, then 1ml Eisen the next. worked wonders, thanks for helping.

I got myself a RO kit with SS GH+, 60L of 50/50 reserved for water changes. GH is slowly dropping from 7 to 5. KH 2~4 still testing this, my Shrimp seem more active with 20~30 CO2, and a temp of 26*c

I have had my Shrimp about a month now, I hope they breed soon like yours also. Good luck on you journey!!

Kind regards,

JonRon
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post #87 of 124 (permalink) Old 06-29-2017, 09:40 PM Thread Starter
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This guy has some good info. Been watching his vids to get my tank ready.
Good info. With that I will add some info on how I prep my water and such for replacing and topping off the water in the tank.

I have a 5 gallon bucket that I prep a few days ahead of time with the half ro and half tap. I have done exact measurements to get the exact tds of the half tap with half ro remineralized to give me exactly the dGH and dKH I am looking for. I use the SS GH+ and know the tds of the water that gives me exactly 5dGH and 1.75dKH. To get these precise measurements I did 20ml kh and gh measurements instead of the standard 5ml with the api tests. This let me get to .25 instead of not knowing what is is exactly between 5-6. So instead of 1 drop=1 degree its 4 drops=1 degree. Now I know I have exactly 5 dGH and exactly 1.75dKH. And I know the tds of the prepped water to get this level which is my case is a tds of 110

I have a powerhead running constantly stirring the bucket during the week to keep help age the water. I feel this is pretty important. I also of course have a temp gauge in the bucket to ensure its VERY close to the temp of the water in the tank. I know it sounds like a lot of work but not really especially once I got all of the exact measurements what it takes to get those levels with half ro and half tap in the bucket its as simple as measuring the tds.

This method has been working good and this keeps the inhabitants from getting shocked when doing water changes. But the most important thing though is when you first get them to ensure they are in as close to the water conditions they were in as possible. Then if you are going to change the parameters for whatever reason to do it so slowly. The after mentioned is just to ensure that the parameters are as close to what they are in as possible and keep it that way. The reason I am using part RO is because my tap GH is a bit low and the KH a bit high so I figured the best method would to be use half RO mostly to cut the KH level down while also lowering my overall tds making it MUCH easier to keep lower than 200 than say keeping all tap and having to add 1.5dGH. Has worked well.


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post #88 of 124 (permalink) Old 06-29-2017, 09:55 PM Thread Starter
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Hey Clownplanted,

Got my TDS down to 193, no more 520, CRS are more active now, plants are doing better also. I cut ferts to 3ml EI one day, then 1ml Eisen the next. worked wonders, thanks for helping.

I got myself a RO kit with SS GH+, 60L of 50/50 reserved for water changes. GH is slowly dropping from 7 to 5. KH 2~4 still testing this, my Shrimp seem more active with 20~30 CO2, and a temp of 26*c

I have had my Shrimp about a month now, I hope they breed soon like yours also. Good luck on you journey!!

Kind regards,

JonRon
I am really glad to hear they are doing better. It seems like they are in good hands for sure. At least you caught the issues before it was too late and am sure they are much happier now. Yeah now to just hoping they are all happy enough yours and mine to start breeding. Then I will know without a doubt I am doing something right.
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post #89 of 124 (permalink) Old 06-29-2017, 10:09 PM Thread Starter
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And of course most importantly what's an update without pics?



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post #90 of 124 (permalink) Old 06-30-2017, 04:41 AM
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Shrimp are looking great man, nice job with the tank!

As to the Nilocg Thrive-S, I've had good luck with it in my shrimp tanks. I recently pulled some of my more demanding plants from my shrimp tanks, but my CRS are in a tank with a very healthy Monte Carlo/HC mix carpet and prob 15 other small plants. That tank is running on just a half dose of Thrive-S every third day and minimal CO2. I'm too lazy to calculate out the ppm, but it'll barely move my drop checker off dark blue. It's enough to make the plants respond though. I've also been running a DIY Oxydator in there too.

My Bee Shrimp tank also gets Thrive-S, and the plants are responding well. I do the same half dose, but it's enough to make the plants flourish. The tank is basically just easy mosses, Bucephalandra, Fissidens, and some Hygros, but they look great. I mean, if you were to compare moss with little/no ferts just "surviving", with moss flourishing in full EI, the Thrive-S tank appears much closer to the EI tank. This tank might even get lower CO2 than the other one I mention above, but the plants respond like night vs day, and the shrimp are doing very well.

Sorry to hijack... just relating my thoughts on the ferts you mentioned.
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