Friday maintenance update
The buces during w/c
Lobelia Dwarf us getting a bit out of hand, might thin it a bit and give the Staurogyne purple more room
I screwed up the Hygrophila Sunesets but they recoloring up, previously they were way too shaded by the brace
Blyxa Novo / Blyxa Novoguineensis still hella red
Lorenzetia Hyptis doing good now after dropping K values to 10ish total
Hygro Pinnatifida, dropped a couple of its emmersed leaves,hoping it grows offshoots faster
Bacopa Caroliana tops turning pink, these were the extremely tall stems
Ceratopteris Siliquosa still adpating to my water I guess
Perunesis, no comment
Mermaid Weed leaves seem fuller now after lowering Fe to 0.6 ppm Weekly over the past week.
Something's been off with the Staurogyne big leaf / Spatulata for awhile now (way before upping Mg and lowering Fe to 0.6 ppm weekly). It's not a good shot but the tops look a lil scrunched up, almost deflated. Something from my micro mix might be inhibiting Cu uptake. I have some Cu from tap too.
The front glass was hella covered with GDA and a lil bit of GSA, razor bladed the whole front and drained the algae out with some spare air line tubing. Dont remember how long it took but I filled a 5gal bucket lol.
Only dosed 0.6 ppm weekly last week, tank soaked up about 0.58 ppm. Guess I'm proving Marcel right?
Testing a new routine starting today, probably the craziest one in awhile.
This with the 8 ppm NO3 and 3 ppm K from my tap. What I'm actually adding to the tank is 1.0622 KNO3, 1.288 KH2PO4, and 1.2 K.
Want to see if lowering N further will help with Siamensis 53b's leaf curling and Perunesis' wonky leaves.
What's rolling around in my head: N increases Mg up take, higher Mg in the plant may antagonize with w/e amount of Ca is in it causing faux Ca deficiency.
Lowering Micros to to see if lowered B will prevent any more leaf loss in Perunesis and Limnophila.
Toxicity: Boron toxicity is similar to other micronutrient toxicities in which the older leaves start to show a marginal or leaf tip chlorosis that soon becomes necrotic or burned. Necrosis progresses inward on the leaf causing its death and defoliation. It can rapidly affect all lower leaves. The range between the correct application rate and a toxic application rate is very narrow. If boron toxicity occurs, test the growing medium's pH and nutrient levels, and also test the water. Boron toxicity can occur if the growing medium's pH is below 5.5 or if there is an overapplication of boron. Check the water source as levels above 0.5 ppm are considered high, especially when combined with standard fertilizers that contain boron. Leaching will help flush out excess boron, and apply a calcium-containing fertilizer as calcium is known to bind up boron and make it unavailable.
Why the weird numbers? It's from aiming for a 10:1:10 NPK
(not NO3:PO4:K) ratio to see if it helps with the stupid amount of GDA.
Elevated iron (Fe), trace minerals, and high NH4/PO4 are the most likely causes of GDA. Green Dust Algae manifests itself in tanks dosed with traces that are produced from strong chelates whereas sulfate (SO4-) and chloride (Cl-) derived traces are less likely to cause GDA. The largest contributor to the development of GDA appears to be the administration of excessive amounts of iron.
To prevent the spread of GDA, a balance of Urea/NH4/NO3 (N), Potassium (K), Phosphorous (P), and Iron (Fe)/Trace should be dosed in the aquarium. However, this method works best in densely planted tanks as the goal is to stimulate the plants to outcompete the GDA for available nutrients. Green Dust Algae thrives in sparsely planted tanks due to the lower rates of nutrient consumption which also explains why recently trimmed tanks are more likely to have breakouts of GDA. Maintaining a high level of plant density becomes an obvious goal in the pursuit of the elimination of GDA. Furthermore, to eliminate GDA and never see it again, use a balanced fertilizer designed for aquatic plants. One should avoid using CSM and Miller.
- All things algae by Happi
When Green Spot Algae (GSA) is discussed, it is often mentioned that it is caused by low phosphate (PO43-, not to be confused with elemental P which is phosphorous) levels. On the contrary, all the experiments I have conducted indicate otherwise and I have seen GSA occur under high PO4 levels and vanish under low PO4 levels. GSA is easily controlled by using a balanced fertilizer, unbalanced fertilizers promote GSA as well as many other types of algae. In my testing it was found that keeping the N:P ratio in the range of 10-13:1 would keep the GSA away in many cases. Commonly used N:P ratios tend to fall in the 5-7.5:1 range and there seems to be a strong correlation between the appearance of multiple forms of algae and N:P ratios that get approach to 1:1. Sometimes GSA and GDA would appear together due to excessive doses of Fe/Traces, Nitrogen, and Phosphorous but under proper conditions, GDA and GSA will not appear even on older damaged leaves and/or very slow growing plants.
- All things algae by Happi
and yeah I know there's no miracle ratio because Joe's running a 3:1 N:P ratio from dry ferts and his tank is spotless of algae. Not sure what his tap N was.
I have other routines I wanna try in case things go south.
Better look of the above charts
I'm still messing with the idea of using Urea or NH4. only problem with urea is that my pH is at about 7.2 for 16hrs of the day. NH4, I'm just chicken for now lol.