120 Gal Dutchy Freestyle - Now with 35% less water volume! - Page 4 - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #46 of 1636 (permalink) Old 01-15-2017, 05:16 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by ibebian View Post
Beautiful! Burr, what are some red plants that are good for foreground, either short/compact or can be trained that way? I had a hugely successful Pogo erectus behind AR mini which I think choked it out and outcompeted it. I've since pulled erectus out and dropped osmocote capsules but the AR mini cannot seem to recover. I'm thinking I need to replace it entirely..

AR varieties obviously. There's some red/pink crypts out there, not sure on the names. Lagenandra meeboldi 'red round'. Under high light Blyxa japonica turns shades of yellow/pink and even red, can be a nice in between contrast. Hygrophila araguaia is a good one. I may try this in place of the Monte carlo. Not a red but Staurogyne sp 'purple' is a really cool plant I think.

Also Ludwigia sp red is totally doable as a mid ground plant. (aka super red mini) You can let it grow out initially, get rooted well, then mow it down to the bone, leaving 1"-2" stumps. It'll come back out with several side stems from each stump creating a dense low bush.

If you look at some of Tom Barr's recent renditions, he does this really well, also. Pikez journal on Barr report.

I'll be trying that more here soon as I figure out a good way to have it going

Sux about the pogo erectus. That's a great contrast behind AR
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Last edited by burr740; 01-15-2017 at 11:23 AM. Reason: /
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post #47 of 1636 (permalink) Old 01-16-2017, 03:43 AM
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Your threads are always an amazing resource for researching bulb combo's. With this tank you really did an incredible job with the combination.

I've been running a 4 bulb T5 combo with a UVL Red Sun, ATI Purple Plus, Giesemann Aquaflora, ATI Aquablue Special, but need to replace them soon. UVL Red Sun's are just about impossible to find nowadays, any recommendations for something similar?
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post #48 of 1636 (permalink) Old 01-16-2017, 04:33 PM
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Wow, looking beautiful already! Cant wait to see it all grow. How were you planning on containing those baby tears? Im 100% stealing your push pin idea! I've noticed the same thing with small/krinkly AR leaves with high traces. I consider that my go to plant for signs of trace toxicity.

Seeing this makes me want to get rid of all my plants and start fresh... however I'm in the middle of another project of converting my old planted fluval edge 12g to a reef.

~ Phil


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post #49 of 1636 (permalink) Old 01-23-2017, 03:11 AM
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Burr... awesome. I just read your 75 gallon journey over the last few days. I'll be following this one too. Truly an inspiration. I'm confused about one thing though.

For your Dosing, how do you use the calculator (Zorfox downloadable) to figure out how much to use. The part that confuses me is the "calculating for" part. What do you calculate for KNO3 and KH2PO4. I assume K2SO4 is calculated for K.

The defaults are:

KNO3 - NO3
KH2PO4 - PO4

It might sound like a silly question, but I just want to fully understand.

Seeing your colors pop with that T5 fixture for the price makes me cringe to know I bought 2 Current Planted + for my 75, with far less PAR for when I finally go CO2.

As always, looking good. Keep it up. Your efforts are appreciated.

Also, one thing that nagged me as I was reading through the issues you were having on the 75 with the micros/Fe... Using the "Nutrient Acclimation" graph in the Zorfox calculator, after adjusting dosing levels it seems it could take 45-60 days for the levels to reach the highest peak. I guess you've mostly solved the problem for now with the P causing precipitation, but I was curious to your thoughts about this.
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post #50 of 1636 (permalink) Old 01-23-2017, 04:00 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Phantomic View Post
Your threads are always an amazing resource for researching bulb combo's. With this tank you really did an incredible job with the combination.

I've been running a 4 bulb T5 combo with a UVL Red Sun, ATI Purple Plus, Giesemann Aquaflora, ATI Aquablue Special, but need to replace them soon. UVL Red Sun's are just about impossible to find nowadays, any recommendations for something similar?
Thanks. I wish more people around here used T5s and liked to talk bulbs.

Far as I know there's nothing out there like the red sun. These 3000Ks are "red", but to the eyes a harsh yellow. Gotta have some cools along with it.

The combo you're running now sounds pretty awesome!

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Originally Posted by vilenarios View Post
Wow, looking beautiful already! Cant wait to see it all grow. How were you planning on containing those baby tears?
It's Monte Carlo but works the same as HC. Will need to keep the borders cut back and lined out every couple of weeks. Mow it to the bone every month or two.

Usually before the mowing phase I just take it out and start over. Easier that way


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Originally Posted by FengShui View Post
Burr... awesome. I just read your 75 gallon journey over the last few days. I'll be following this one too. Truly an inspiration. I'm confused about one thing though.

For your Dosing, how do you use the calculator (Zorfox downloadable) to figure out how much to use. The part that confuses me is the "calculating for" part. What do you calculate for KNO3 and KH2PO4. I assume K2SO4 is calculated for K.

The defaults are:

KNO3 - NO3
KH2PO4 - PO4

It might sound like a silly question, but I just want to fully understand.

Seeing your colors pop with that T5 fixture for the price makes me cringe to know I bought 2 Current Planted + for my 75, with far less PAR for when I finally go CO2.

As always, looking good. Keep it up. Your efforts are appreciated.

Also, one thing that nagged me as I was reading through the issues you were having on the 75 with the micros/Fe... Using the "Nutrient Acclimation" graph in the Zorfox calculator, after adjusting dosing levels it seems it could take 45-60 days for the levels to reach the highest peak. I guess you've mostly solved the problem for now with the P causing precipitation, but I was curious to your thoughts about this.
The "calculating for" defaults to the main ingredient in whatever compound you select. Once you calculate, it shows the ppm of everything that's in the compound. There's no need to do anything in this field unless you want to calculate for a secondary ingredient. Like dosing KNO3 for K, or a micro nutrient in csmb other than fe.

"Dosing method" defaults to EI, and will give results according to EI ppms. You can change it to "Custom" if you want to hit a specific ppm. Enter whatever ppm you want in the "concentration" field.


Here's a good online calculator, they all work about the same

Rotala Butterfly | Planted Aquarium Nutrient Dosing Calculator


As for the last part, you may be onto something but Ive never used the accumulation charts much. Lowering P definitely helped a few nagging issues.


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Last edited by burr740; 01-27-2017 at 12:08 AM. Reason: .
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post #51 of 1636 (permalink) Old 01-23-2017, 04:49 AM
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With plants like that, who needs fish?
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post #52 of 1636 (permalink) Old 01-23-2017, 04:59 AM Thread Starter
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Couple of trims, made a few changes







- Replaced the Monte Carlo with Hygrophila araguaia

- Opacua verde sword in place of the Moss log. The giant willow moss had gotten about 4" thick and needed a trim. Scalped it to the bone and put it in the 10 gal with the shrimp and lower light to recover for a bit.

The Opacus grew flat and sideways in the 75. Think it's the bright light. Gonna see how this one looks after fattening up for a few weeks. But I really like the moss log, it'll probably come back.





Havent figured out a good way to stack the Floscopa. Need to be looking down on it to show it's full effect. From the side it loses a lot of impact. May put the Acmella there instead

Trimmed the Lud red about half way down last week. It'll be ready for another good whacking at nect week's WC. the plan is to keep it a lot lower than it is now.






There's about a 3" space between the L red and the Bonsai. The overhang of the red has forming a tunnel, also creating the shadow.






Rotala macaranda variegated is doing pretty well. About 1 out of every 6-7 tops stunts and withers. That's better than a couple months ago when it was 50/50.

Havent changed ferts much. Mostly just keep cutting out the bad and replanting the good. Trying to focus on better maintenance and pruning, keeping the overall bio-moss in check, trying to keep space between groups, all that sort of thing which good CO2 and flow depend on.



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Last edited by burr740; 01-23-2017 at 06:46 AM. Reason: .
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post #53 of 1636 (permalink) Old 01-23-2017, 05:31 AM Thread Starter
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post #54 of 1636 (permalink) Old 01-23-2017, 12:55 PM
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Looking great Burr! Picking up right were you left off.
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post #55 of 1636 (permalink) Old 01-23-2017, 01:51 PM
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@burr740, how long does it take prepare the tank for these photo shoots?

I mean, I'm sure the tank looks great everyday, but I imagine the attention to detail to take those photos requires some work. The way each group is perfectly tapered and spaced doesn't happen by accident.

And no matter how many times I see your tank, I marvel at it every time.

Planning the 180G yet??


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post #56 of 1636 (permalink) Old 01-23-2017, 03:47 PM
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@burr740 your tank is amazing! Planning a 40 breeder and considering T5. Do you have any opinion on the Sunblaster Nanotech T5 High Output Fixture? Was considering them for lighting and maybe changing bulbs. Would 2 or 3 be enough for med. - high light?
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post #57 of 1636 (permalink) Old 01-23-2017, 04:13 PM
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120 Gal - Dutchy Freestyle

@burr740 thanks for the pointers on red plants. I am trying tissue cultured L. repens "super red" as a super low almost foreground, will see how that ends up working out.

Noob question here but are T5 supposed to be more temperature complete compared to LED? Is that why from a photosynthesis standpoint they tend to be superior? Perhaps pure PAR output? I see there are various color temps for T5 as well, so I'm wondering what benefits there are, or if it's mainly preference.


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post #58 of 1636 (permalink) Old 01-24-2017, 03:36 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys

Quote:
Originally Posted by Greggz View Post
@burr740, how long does it take prepare the tank for these photo shoots?

I mean, I'm sure the tank looks great everyday, but I imagine the attention to detail to take those photos requires some work. The way each group is perfectly tapered and spaced doesn't happen by accident.

And no matter how many times I see your tank, I marvel at it every time.

Planning the 180G yet??
Thanks man. Calling it photo shoots is funny. I have a cheap point and shoot that I barely know how to use. The most I ever do in preparation is wipe off the glass if it needs it.

But you are absolutely right, the shape of each group doesnt happen by accident. But it's more routine maintenance than prepping for a pic.

I do a little pruning most every day or two. Get in there with my hands for 5-10 minutes and pinch off ratty leaves, wayward sprouts, unwanted side shoots, that sort of thing. To me it's relaxing, a meditative activity. I enjoy doing it so it's not like a chore.

Then, on water change days there's always a few groups due for a major trim. Might be only one or two groups, or several.

Some things do better replanting the nice tops, some things do better mowed down. Whatever the case, you try to shape the group however you want it to grow out. So until its time to trim again, the group maintains the same basic shape, or at least heads in the direction you want.


Quote:
Originally Posted by markf View Post
@burr740 your tank is amazing! Planning a 40 breeder and considering T5. Do you have any opinion on the Sunblaster Nanotech T5 High Output Fixture? Was considering them for lighting and maybe changing bulbs. Would 2 or 3 be enough for med. - high light?
Never had a Sunblaster but from what I know they are really good lights.

The main drawback is the reflector doesnt come down low enough to fully encapsulate the bulb, so you get a lot of light spillage, and viewing the tank from eye level can be unpleasant. So that might be something to think about, unless they're going in a canopy.

Two should be plenty of light, maybe 6"-8" apart to even out the coverage. Three would offer better coverage and more bulb options, but you'll need to raise them up a lot or it'll be way too much, like a foot or probably more above the tank.

With two bulbs can probably get by with...less than a foot. Just guessing

Quote:
Originally Posted by ibebian View Post
@burr740 thanks for the pointers on red plants. I am trying tissue cultured L. repens "super red" as a super low almost foreground, will see how that ends up working out.

Noob question here but are T5 supposed to be more temperature complete compared to LED? Is that why from a photosynthesis standpoint they tend to be superior? Perhaps pure PAR output? I see there are various color temps for T5 as well, so I'm wondering what benefits there are, or if it's mainly preference.
I really dont know enough about it to understand or explain the difference. Though "temperature complete" sounds like an appropriate term.

The problem with most LEDs is they dont have enough reds, or the right kind of reds. Unless you build your own custom job, or spend a helluva lot of money on the more advanced units (which Im not very familiar with)

One of the lighting gurus around here Im sure could explain it better
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Last edited by burr740; 01-25-2017 at 12:25 AM. Reason: .
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post #59 of 1636 (permalink) Old 01-26-2017, 01:34 AM
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Originally Posted by burr740 View Post
Thanks man. Calling it photo shoots is funny. I have a cheap point and shoot that I barely know how to use. The most I ever do in preparation is wipe off the glass if it needs it.

But you are absolutely right, the shape of each group doesnt happen by accident. But it's more routine maintenance than prepping for a pic.

I do a little pruning most every day or two. Get in there with my hands for 5-10 minutes and pinch off ratty leaves, wayward sprouts, unwanted side shoots, that sort of thing. To me it's relaxing, a meditative activity. I enjoy doing it so it's not like a chore.

Then, on water change days there's always a few groups due for a major trim. Might be only one or two groups, or several.

Some things do better replanting the nice tops, some things do better mowed down. Whatever the case, you try to shape the group however you want it to grow out. So until its time to trim again, the group maintains the same basic shape, or at least heads in the direction you want.
Burr740 I appreciate the response. I think this illustrates that like many things in life, the end result is often proportionate to the effort put in.

You probably spend more time tending to your underwater garden than most, and it shows.

And I agree with you, I also find the time spent on the tank a form of meditation and enjoyable. Good for the soul if you will.

And by the way, the Nelsonia is a prolific grower. If left to its own devices, it could fill my whole tank in no time. Great plant for me, so thanks again.


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post #60 of 1636 (permalink) Old 01-26-2017, 03:17 AM Thread Starter
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Burr740 I appreciate the response. I think this illustrates that like many things in life, the end result is often proportionate to the effort put in.

You probably spend more time tending to your underwater garden than most, and it shows.

And I agree with you, I also find the time spent on the tank a form of meditation and enjoyable. Good for the soul if you will.

And by the way, the Nelsonia is a prolific grower. If left to its own devices, it could fill my whole tank in no time. Great plant for me, so thanks again.
It's a stunning plant, but those side stems make it a real pita for what I'd like to do with it. I may try to work it in somewhere at some point, though.

It's such a unique leaf







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