Hubbles 55 gal adventure - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-21-2016, 02:18 AM Thread Starter
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Hubbles 55 gal adventure

So I picked up this 55 gal for 40 bucks off of craigslist for 40 bucks!
The plan for now it to refurbish the tank remove all the caulking and resealClick image for larger version

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I have about 3/4 of caulking removed and I was able to see the date-1989! For a tank that old its really not in bad shape. It does have a two scratches but they are small and both on one panel. Ill be able to tell more once it is all cleaned up.
Let the adventure begin!!

Bump: I was going to try and save the top frame but it took almost an hour and a half to get off and then broke at a week spot. I did notice that the previous owner/owners had carved out several notches in the frame. Oh well I'm go'in rimless.
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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-21-2016, 02:30 AM
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I hate to be the bearer of bad news. But without the rim, that tank will not be safe and reliable. Rimless tanks are made with thicker glass and seams to bear the pressure. I really wouldn't risk it. If it were just a 10g, I'd say go for it. But not a 55g. You will want to put that rim back on, or risk catastrophic failure.
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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-21-2016, 02:40 AM Thread Starter
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Hmmmm..... I suppose I could repair the frame. I would have to paint it because its but ugly I could put the repaired part in the back. But frame doesn't seem to be that supportive its kind of flimsy. I found a shop that sells rims but shipping is ridiculous. It still has the bottom frame by the way . I'm not attached to any outcome just going to go where it takes me and any advise is greatly appreciated.

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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-21-2016, 06:20 AM
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I remember someone on PT had a broken top rim, and members posted some interesting remedies. All of them required the rim be fortified somehow. Yea, the bottom and top need to be rimmed. You can always start a new thread under 'equipment' and see what happens.
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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-21-2016, 06:45 AM
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Why not replace the Front glass pane while you are at it? Glass is not that expensive.
You could even try to have it cut from low iron glass. The long sides are the easiest to do after the bottom, with short sides being the hardest.

You could make your own top frame out of oak or other hard wood, with a rabbet cut on the inside that slips snugly over the glass. I'd use dovetail joints to hold the sides and fronts together.

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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-21-2016, 01:03 PM
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Might be better off just getting a new tank rim . A real quick Google turned up this….. Glasscages.com - Tank Frames …… probably others , too . But I'd take some real careful measurements and call them first just to check if their new rim will fit your old tank .
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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-21-2016, 05:17 PM Thread Starter
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Any Ideas about using glass cross bracing I looked into euro bracing but it doesn't allow for hanging equipment over the edge (lily pipes, co2 tubing, ect).

Bump: Any Ideas about using glass cross bracing I looked into euro bracing but it doesn't allow for hanging equipment over the edge (lily pipes, co2 tubing, ect).
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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-22-2016, 05:00 PM Thread Starter
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So I actually did the calculations on this tank ( something I should have done when I bought it but I forgot my measuring tape) It is d12.5 x h18.25 x l48 only 46 gal as the previous owner said it was 50- 55 I may have been able to talk her down in price. Oh well, lesson learned. More posts coming today on my progress!

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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-22-2016, 08:10 PM
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A while back I found a cheap 80g, and I was in your situation as well. I had three pieces of glass cut and used them to brace the ends and the center of the tank. Worked great for me, but getting a new tank rim means that you won't have a pesky piece of glass on top of your tank.
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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-26-2016, 10:57 PM Thread Starter
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So I've been working on the hard water stains on this aquarium, Ive been using Bartenders Friend (oxalic acid) and its done a great job on the hard water stains at the top but I'm having more trouble with the corners. Water seems to have seeped under the old caulk and left some very stubborn deposits, any ideas on how to clean these. My thought was to just wet the whole thing with white vinegar and cover it with plastic wrap for a day see if that softens up the stains? My worry is that the stains will interfere with the new sealant.
Picture of the stains in the corner
https://www.plantedtank.net/forums/at...655873&thumb=1
Picture of the top of the tank after some elbow grease
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Last edited by hubble13; 07-26-2016 at 11:01 PM. Reason: Punctuation
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post #11 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-27-2016, 01:21 AM
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Have you tried just scraping the stains off with a razor blade?
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post #12 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-27-2016, 01:30 AM Thread Starter
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Yep used a razor blade not very effective, I think I'm going to cote a small section in oxalic acid cover it with plastic wrap and leave it over night then see how that goes.

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post #13 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-27-2016, 02:54 AM
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Hopefully it comes off, looking forward to updates.
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post #14 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-27-2016, 05:01 AM
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Ordinary cheap automotive rubbing compound will help with the really hard bits.
It is made of mostly silicates and ash, and washes off very easily, or it would have been useless to use on cars.

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post #15 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-27-2016, 05:08 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nordic View Post
Ordinary cheap automotive rubbing compound will help with the really hard bits.
It is made of mostly silicates and ash, and washes off very easily, or it would have been useless to use on cars.
Thanks Nordic, do you know of any particular brands I should look for.

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