32 Gallon Semi-Dutch (resurrected) - Page 2 - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #16 of 217 (permalink) Old 07-18-2016, 09:52 AM
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Based on what happens to red plants in my tanks: A darker than normal color generally indicates too much of something, either Fe or micros. It's one of the very first signs. A deficiency of either one tends to show faded coloration. Stunted/twisting can happen in either case.

L aromatica can lose color either way. When short on Fe the tops will turn almost white, starting in the center. When there's too much, for me it never gets really unhappy, growth wise. It just reverts back to green.

And of course all the above assumes good CO2.
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post #17 of 217 (permalink) Old 07-28-2016, 09:27 PM Thread Starter
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Struggles continue...

Did 70% water changes on back-to-back days and then skipped micros all of last week (dosed macros as usual). Finally dosed 0.032 ppm fe micros yesterday.

Ludwigia Red looking maybe a little healthier than last update, but still a dumpster fire overall.
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Limnophila aromatica actually growing pretty quickly, but color seems even worse than before. This was supposed to be the main focal plant. If I can't get some red out of it, will have to go with something else.
Limnophila aromatica sp. 'White'
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Polaris starting to gather algae again. Don't know if they're gonna make it.
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Going out of town next week, so the tank will not get regular fert dosing. Probably change the water the day before I leave and dose macros. Interested to see what sort of shape things will be in after a week of basically zero ferts.
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post #18 of 217 (permalink) Old 08-09-2016, 06:49 AM Thread Starter
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After one week of neglect

Got back home on Sunday. The tank went eight days without ferts or top-offs. Lighting and rate of CO2 injection were left at normal levels during this time.

Other than the plants being overgrown and water level having dropped slightly below the filter outputs, things seem to have gone smoothly. Overall, no major complaints about the lack of ferts from what I can tell.

Ludwigia red grew quite a bit and looks a little healthier than when I left.
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The Limnophila aromatica gained some color.
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Eriocaulon polaris looking in bad shape, but it was already in trouble when I left. May have become shaded by the Ludwigia red to make matters worse.
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Lobelia cardinalis, which had been showing some GSA on the lower leaves, is almost completely cleared up.
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Before leaving I swapped some Rotala rotundifolia in place of the Hydrocotyle Japan. A beginner plant, but as you can see it's looking rough, major stunting. Hoping this is just part of it acclimating to a new tank.
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The Isoetes lacustris in the back left corner had been fading for a while and has now shriveled to four small clumps. Time to cut losses and try something else in that spot.
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This is what the tank looked like when I got home - jungle dutch.
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Did a huge trim yesterday and back-to-back water changes. Still need to do some more trimming this week. The Isoetes lacustris is gone and the Rotala rotundifolia has been moved to the back left corner. Still need to find a midground plant to go in front of the Limnophila aromatica. This was originally going to be the Windelov fern, but not enough contrast. I have tried pearl weed in that spot twice now over the last month, only to have it completely melt within 24 hrs. Not sure about a third time.
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post #19 of 217 (permalink) Old 08-09-2016, 07:45 AM
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32 Gallon Frameless Semi-Dutch

Quote:
Originally Posted by LRJ View Post
Before leaving I swapped some Rotala rotundifolia in place of the Hydrocotyle Japan. A beginner plant, but as you can see it's looking rough, major stunting. Hoping this is just part of it acclimating to a new tank.
I'm experiencing the same thing with some R. rotundifolia 'Blood Red' (I don't even know if this variant is a thing to be honest). It's looking really rough right now albeit with some new growth. Although mine was grown emersed, was yours? For some reason it is doing even worse in my emersed setup than my show tank. Puzzling to say the least. Hopefully it bounces back for the both of us, it's one of the hardiest/easiest stems as well. I would think in both our cases it must just be acclimating to the new environment.




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post #20 of 217 (permalink) Old 08-09-2016, 07:53 AM
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Something orange might look good in the empty spot. I really like that Fissidens, it looks sweet
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post #21 of 217 (permalink) Old 08-09-2016, 06:33 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Opare View Post
I'm experiencing the same thing with some R. rotundifolia 'Blood Red' (I don't even know if this variant is a thing to be honest). It's looking really rough right now albeit with some new growth. Although mine was grown emersed, was yours? For some reason it is doing even worse in my emersed setup than my show tank. Puzzling to say the least. Hopefully it bounces back for the both of us, it's one of the hardiest/easiest stems as well. I would think in both our cases it must just be acclimating to the new environment.

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I believe the stems I received were grown emersed. Nice specimens too, big pink-orange leaves. The new growth is much smaller and greenish yellow, with high rate of stunting. This is not the first time I've tried Rotala rotundifolia. I had the green variant in the initial planting of my previous setup about year ago. It did OK for a few weeks and then started with the same stunting issues. I know for sure my CO2 is much better now though, so I have hope that this rotala will acclimate and come around. Haven't seen the 'blood red' variant, but if yours was grown emersed, then I'd bet that's the issue in your case.

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Originally Posted by burr740 View Post
Something orange might look good in the empty spot. I really like that Fissidens, it looks sweet
Thanks. I had been considering trying something with big green leaves like hygro corymbosa 'kompakt' or Echinodorus quadricostatus, but I like the suggestion of something orange. Thinking of a particular species? Proserpinaca palustris, Rotala wallichii, and Ludwigia arcuata are the ones that come to mind.

Last edited by LRJ; 08-09-2016 at 06:59 PM. Reason: .
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post #22 of 217 (permalink) Old 08-10-2016, 12:28 AM
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What is NBAT and what is an official Dutch tank? I didn't know there were any sorts of rules what the heck

tank looks great. Looks like backing off ferts did only good things
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post #23 of 217 (permalink) Old 08-10-2016, 01:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LRJ View Post
Thanks. I had been considering trying something with big green leaves like hygro corymbosa 'kompakt' or Echinodorus quadricostatus, but I like the suggestion of something orange. Thinking of a particular species? Proserpinaca palustris, Rotala wallichii, and Ludwigia arcuata are the ones that come to mind.
Those and possibly Myriophyllum tuberculatum or L senegalensis. Im sure there are more, Im currently looking for a dramatic orange species for my tank as well.

Compact hygro might still be a good look, in between the orange and the polaris.
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post #24 of 217 (permalink) Old 08-10-2016, 02:52 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Albtraum View Post
What is NBAT and what is an official Dutch tank? I didn't know there were any sorts of rules what the heck

tank looks great. Looks like backing off ferts did only good things
Check out this link: Crash course Dutch style Aquascaping | UK Aquatic Plant Society. He gives a far better explanation than I can. The rules only really matter for formal competition. For this tank, I'm just focusing on some of the aspects that I feel most exemplify the Dutch style.

Low ferts for a week certainly didn't seem to hurt. I'm back to regular macros now, but I'm going to hold off on traces for a bit until I see a negative response.
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post #25 of 217 (permalink) Old 09-01-2016, 07:44 PM
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Hello, I'm starting a planted tank and I bought a Radion XR15 Pro Gen 3 but I don't have any experience with leds. Can you recommended me a configuration, % of intensity, etc? It's for a 27 gallon (20''x18''x20'') tank.

thank you
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post #26 of 217 (permalink) Old 09-02-2016, 03:05 AM Thread Starter
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Hello, I'm starting a planted tank and I bought a Radion XR15 Pro Gen 3 but I don't have any experience with leds. Can you recommended me a configuration, % of intensity, etc? It's for a 27 gallon (20''x18''x20'') tank.

thank you
Hi,

I don't have any experience with that fixture, so not sure how much help I can be. My Radions were the XR15 freshwater model. I ran two of them on this tank, which is 24x18x18 inches. Actually just sold them though so that I could see what T5 has to offer.

Had the Radions on this tank for over a year though, so I can try to share some of that experience. Started out with them cranked up too high and way more light than I needed, and eventually turned them down to around 40% intensity. If I recall correctly, this was giving me around 80 PAR average at the substrate. There are a couple posts in the journal for my previous setup which give specifics on the configuration, e.g., color intensities: https://www.plantedtank.net/forums/12...ml#post8904250.

Didn't do anything fancy for the photo period, basically just played around with the colors until I found a mix that was pleasing, then set this mix constant throughout the period. Added steep ramp up and ramp down periods to bracket a level 40% intensity photo period. I did setup a pretty sweet evening phase after the photo period though, featuring a lot of warm colors, transitioning into a cooler moonlight phase after midnight. This made for many enjoyable evening and night viewing hours of the tank.

Honestly, the best way to figure out a configuration is probably just to play around with the settings and find what you like. EcoSmart Live has a few freshwater templates. If you're looking for a starting point, you could use one of those and tweak from there. It's a sweet sweet light, and the process of customizing it to your liking is part of the fun of owning it. That said, if you post this question in the lighting forum you might be able to get some more detailed answers regarding your specific model of Radion. Good luck!
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post #27 of 217 (permalink) Old 09-02-2016, 04:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LRJ View Post
Hi,

I don't have any experience with that fixture, so not sure how much help I can be. My Radions were the XR15 freshwater model. I ran two of them on this tank, which is 24x18x18 inches. Actually just sold them though so that I could see what T5 has to offer.

Had the Radions on this tank for over a year though, so I can try to share some of that experience. Started out with them cranked up too high and way more light than I needed, and eventually turned them down to around 40% intensity. If I recall correctly, this was giving me around 80 PAR average at the substrate. There are a couple posts in the journal for my previous setup which give specifics on the configuration, e.g., color intensities: https://www.plantedtank.net/forums/12...ml#post8904250.

Didn't do anything fancy for the photo period, basically just played around with the colors until I found a mix that was pleasing, then set this mix constant throughout the period. Added steep ramp up and ramp down periods to bracket a level 40% intensity photo period. I did setup a pretty sweet evening phase after the photo period though, featuring a lot of warm colors, transitioning into a cooler moonlight phase after midnight. This made for many enjoyable evening and night viewing hours of the tank.

Honestly, the best way to figure out a configuration is probably just to play around with the settings and find what you like. EcoSmart Live has a few freshwater templates. If you're looking for a starting point, you could use one of those and tweak from there. It's a sweet sweet light, and the process of customizing it to your liking is part of the fun of owning it. That said, if you post this question in the lighting forum you might be able to get some more detailed answers regarding your specific model of Radion. Good luck!


Thank you for your tips! I already creat a thread in the lighting forum!
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post #28 of 217 (permalink) Old 10-11-2016, 05:44 AM Thread Starter
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Eriocaulon sp. Polaris update

Two of the three Eriocaulon sp. Polaris have slowly but surely rebounded after I uprooted and hacked them about three months ago. The third plant was fading, so I made a last ditch decision to pull and split it with a razor blade, placing the halves in a five gallon rehab tank to see if I can bring them back. The two plants that successfully recovered have both developed at least two (...the larger plant may have three or four) cores. Trying to decide whether it's time to separate them, or whether they should be left to grow for a while longer. Any thoughts/advice?

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post #29 of 217 (permalink) Old 10-11-2016, 06:03 AM
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Those can be spilt just fine. I just split the last survivor of my E. Cinereum and some of the plants had like less than a dozen leaves LOL. I am to blame for not taking good care of them but I did manage to grow 8 little plants from 2 tiny growths. I waited until the 2 plants showed individual tiny plants then I split them. Most of them have roots now and they are on their way.

I'll grab a picture tomorrow and you can see how tiny they are.

What I would do is get the plant out of the water then use your a tweezer to very very slowly split the plant and trying to keep as much roots as you can have for each plant. Don't pull them by the leaves. Pull the individual plants by the crown and again do this very very slowly. It should split with no issues.

The common newbie thing to do is to pull too fast and losing all the roots from one good plant.


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post #30 of 217 (permalink) Old 10-11-2016, 06:19 AM
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What he said^

Weird I started out with one and it never divided by itself, just kept getting bigger and bigger. Super nice plant. Finally it was about the size of a tennis ball, I split into four with a razor.

It took a while but three of them survived and took off. Now they all divide by themselves like in your pic. Sorta wish they didnt because so far none have been as pretty as the original, easy to split though. just be gentle and make sure to get some roots with each one.


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