Greggz 120G Rainbow Fish Tank (Bow Pics 9-27) - Page 232 - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #3466 of 3494 (permalink) Old 10-02-2020, 02:33 PM
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KASA has scenes that letís you create a water change scene.
My water change scene is:
Turn off super jet filter.
Turn off heater
Turn off twinstar
Turn off Co2 solenoid

You then a water change complete scene
That has them all on.
Very easy to do. An takes the human out of the picture.
On my big tank I use a GHL Aqurium computer.
An I have a touch screen panel All I do is press one button and it does all that. An has a fail safe with an alarm after an hour and a half if for some reason I forget to hit the button to turn it back on.
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post #3467 of 3494 (permalink) Old 10-02-2020, 04:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greggz View Post
Here's why I usually unplug it.

I am usually doing a water change on Saturday morning. Depending on when I start, I might not be done when the CO2 comes on at 10:00am, and likely I would not remember to shut it off with the Kasa strip. So I just unplug it and plug it back in. Has been the routine for a while now. But might have to rethink that and do like you said, just shut it off right when it comes on.

And interesting to hear others feedback on AR. It has eluded me for years. But thought I would bang my head against the wall one more time!

Maybe someone knows the secret? If so I am all ears.

FWIW, Sunday is my water change day and I have my smart plug programmed not to turn on the CO2 on Sundays. I also have it programmed to turn off the CO2 at the normal 6pm just in case. Regular cycle starts back up on Mondays.
Now, as for the AR - I remember reading a while back that AR does not like being up-rooted. You are better off cutting the top off and leaving the base (with the roots) planted and allow it to sprout new growth. And yes the cut top can be planted somewhere else. Now clearly I don't necessarily follow what I read (good or bad) as my AR does not look that great, LOL
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post #3468 of 3494 (permalink) Old 10-03-2020, 08:49 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deanna View Post
Thanks. Green Cabomba aerial roots can get pretty bad. However, I'm thinking the red might provide a good "volunteer crop" type of look if a single stem is placed within my Ambula (which doesn't have many aerial roots). Maybe the Furcata aerial roots would be hidden by the Ambula. If you're inclined, I'd appreciate a picture of what you think are the heaviest air roots before you trim the next time they appear. If you do, please be sure to tag me.
Alrght @Deanna here you go.

The Cabomba Furcata before a trim. Last time I pulled the aerial roots was 3 weeks ago. I really don't tend to notice them much until I pull them.



And then here is whole bunch that just got pulled..............



Aerial roots removed and trimmed to size................



And then back in the tank..................



And the full tank after a good trim. Lack of CO2 damage not too bad, and everything seems to be perking back up already.

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post #3469 of 3494 (permalink) Old 10-03-2020, 09:50 PM
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Thanks! It looks about the same as green Cabomba ..as we should probably expect. Too bad "they" don't make a red (truly red) Ambulia.

I've made the CO2 blunder many a time, but not because of the filter. It's the running-out issue and not catching it until the symptoms appear. Since I run it 24/7, if anyone can think of an alarm system that might be used (maybe from a pressure drop), I'd be very interested.

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Originally Posted by Asteroid View Post
On the AR Mini, how tall does yours grow untrimmed? I bought some TC AR Mini and it was clearly purchased and labeled as Mini, but untrimmed it grows upwards of 7", so not what I wanted. Tank looking good, BTW.
I have been very "lucky" with AR Mini: very thick, deep red and constantly expanding (have to thin it out about once a month). Mine also tops out at around 7-9 inches, at which point I trim that section near the base. Not all of the stems reach that height, just an occasional one in the center of the clump. @Greggz: thinking a little more about this, I wonder if they are sensitive to high NO3, as you do. Maybe @Asteroid can comment on his NO3 level.
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Last edited by Deanna; 10-03-2020 at 10:08 PM. Reason: add
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post #3470 of 3494 (permalink) Old 10-03-2020, 11:55 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Deanna View Post
I have been very "lucky" with AR Mini: very thick, deep red and constantly expanding (have to thin it out about once a month). Mine also tops out at around 7-9 inches, at which point I trim that section near the base. Not all of the stems reach that height, just an occasional one in the center of the clump. @Greggz: thinking a little more about this, I wonder if they are sensitive to high NO3, as you do. Maybe @Asteroid can comment on his NO3 level.
Well if you know the secret, let me in on it.

Funny you mention NO3. I am actually in the process of testing the lower limits in this tank again. A post a little while back by @Hendy8888 got me thinking.

Did a 70% water change with pure RO (no ferts) earlier in the week to "reset" things lower. Then started a new scheme. My guess will take a few weeks to really see what effect it has.

My light is also pretty high, but that is not going to change. I have heard some folks have better success with lower light with AR, but who knows? I think it just doesn't like me!
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post #3471 of 3494 (permalink) Old 10-04-2020, 12:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deanna View Post
I have been very "lucky" with AR Mini: very thick, deep red and constantly expanding (have to thin it out about once a month). Mine also tops out at around 7-9 inches, at which point I trim that section near the base. Not all of the stems reach that height, just an occasional one in the center of the clump. @Greggz: thinking a little more about this, I wonder if they are sensitive to high NO3, as you do. Maybe @Asteroid can comment on his NO3 level.
My NO3 is always north of 40+, it grows very fast and has nice color AND I still get that thin coating of green on the lower leaves. Only plant in there that gets algae. I was really trying to determine if I had AR Mini, because it grows tall as a group/plant not a stem like @Deanna

Quote:
Originally Posted by Greggz View Post
...
My light is also pretty high, but that is not going to change. I have heard some folks have better success with lower light with AR, but who knows? I think it just doesn't like me!
Light is tough to figure out, because if I run a 2 hr peak is that high light? Or if it is, does the short peak have the same effect on the plant compared to running high light for 8 hrs or so.
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post #3472 of 3494 (permalink) Old 10-04-2020, 02:17 AM Thread Starter
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Light is tough to figure out, because if I run a 2 hr peak is that high light? Or if it is, does the short peak have the same effect on the plant compared to running high light for 8 hrs or so.
That is actually a great topic for discussion.

And something I am testing out a bit now.

Early results are that duration of peak matters. But it's a fine line.

I've always thought that much like CO2, ferts.....light is tricky to dial in just right.
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post #3473 of 3494 (permalink) Old 10-04-2020, 02:36 PM
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Quote:
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Light is tough to figure out, because if I run a 2 hr peak is that high light? Or if it is, does the short peak have the same effect on the plant compared to running high light for 8 hrs or so.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Greggz View Post
That is actually a great topic for discussion.
And something I am testing out a bit now.
Early results are that duration of peak matters. But it's a fine line.
I've always thought that much like CO2, ferts.....light is tricky to dial in just right.
This is a whole can of worms. Change the intensity and/or photoperiod and you get changes in growth. How much is due to just the photons and how much is due to the change in uptake rates of CO2 and fertz? What is high light (rhetorical question)? I suspect that the degree of effects are going to be on a PAR curve and we’d have to factor in our PUR as well, e.g.; my substrate peak PAR is ~140. Over several months I moved peak hours (total photoperiod is ~10 hours - lots of ramping) from 2 to 6 hours, from a base of about 50 PAR. I saw higher growth (more trimming and more pearling), but not what I would consider better health. No algae changes. I did see changes in fert consumption and had to adjust those. Bottom line: I don’t think that a transferable formula for this is possible.

Quote:
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My NO3 is always north of 40+, it grows very fast and has nice color AND I still get that thin coating of green on the lower leaves. Only plant in there that gets algae.
I was having issues with gsa and gda accumulating on the older and lower leaves of several plants. It was not a lot, just annoying. I suspected that biofilm had a lot to do with it (thread is out there somewhere). I ran a test to try to eliminate the biofilm, using a UV-C submersible lamp. Although the test was a disaster for half the plants (it was accidentally left on for two hours) and the fish, the other half did see a reduction in that type of algae formation. I could easily see this because the behavior was like moss growing on a tree where the sun doesn’t reach it. The UV side was reduced as compared to the shaded side, including AR mini. It is not practical to use such lamps, but I did then introduce ramshorns to attack the biofilm and the algae gradually disappeared (occasionally see a leaf or two where it reappears, but never spreads). I also have several Oto’s that spend a lot of time on the AR mini, but they have always been there.
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post #3474 of 3494 (permalink) Old 10-04-2020, 03:40 PM
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Alrght @Deanna here you go.


And now we know Greggs other secret - additional iron oxide added to the trimmings


LOL, sorry Gregg - remember you and I talking about our trimming trays probably a year ago. Recent conversations about ferts made me chuckle a bit on the above pic.
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post #3475 of 3494 (permalink) Old 10-13-2020, 12:25 AM Thread Starter
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This one has been catching my eye lately. Myriophyllum Roraima. Great unique color, drama free, steady grower.



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post #3476 of 3494 (permalink) Old 10-13-2020, 12:43 AM
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Another good burst of color Gregg! I like it
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post #3477 of 3494 (permalink) Old 10-14-2020, 01:49 PM
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This one has been catching my eye lately. Myriophyllum Roraima.
When the borders are open, let's talk
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post #3478 of 3494 (permalink) Old 10-14-2020, 03:03 PM Thread Starter
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When the borders are open, let's talk
It's certainly possible, I'm about 30 minutes from Windsor.
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post #3479 of 3494 (permalink) Old 10-18-2020, 09:57 PM Thread Starter
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Tank has been very stable lately. Almost back to "auto-pilot" mode. Still tinkering a bit, but in very small increments.

Looking at the tank this afternoon, I am beginning to think I am liking it better without the driftwood. Don't foresee it going back in. And things are getting closer to where I was heading, just a bit more filling in needed.

I can't imagine getting a tank ready for something like the ADA. Getting everything to peak conditions and right height all at once seems like a real trick.

And I have to say, there are so many great tanks here in the journals lately. Very inspirational and good to see. Makes me think I need to step up my game!!



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Last edited by Greggz; 10-18-2020 at 10:40 PM. Reason: typo
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post #3480 of 3494 (permalink) Old 10-18-2020, 10:05 PM
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Looking great! How do you deal with Nymphoides taiwan when it reaches the surface? I have them in a few tanks and have short stems from pruning them everywhere.

Also, what's the burgundy plant front towards the left?
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