Originally Posted by livebearerlove
What is my next step?
Im reading till my eyes are bleeding!!!
This is always a good first step (though maybe without the eyes bleeding
In terms of lighting, you may be able to find someone that already has taken PAR measurements for the Chihiro light.
For CO2, what you are doing is fine for now. If you want to (roughly) estimate your CO2 levels, you can always invest or DIY a drop checker and fill it with 4 dkH reference solution. The indicator (bromothymol blue) will turn an emerald green when you are in the ballpark of 30 ppm of CO2.
Ok, so I read oodles of material. Head is spinning a bit....
I purchased a drop checker, ill install today.
So is it always 30ppm roughly?
I dont have a drop checker, just the diffuser (it says it counts bubbles, but it doesnt unless im doing it wrong... thanks Amazon, pff.)
Many things I read told me to purchase a PAR sensor, and that would determine my 'drops' and my ppm requirements. They are expensive... and I dont know if I would be able to decipher all the information without getting another university degree. HA
The calculator I found said: .2ppm dissolved, 35ppm recommended, .4-.7 bps (I also found other calculators that said similar https://aquariuminfo.org/co2calculator.html
- I guess if I get it to 30ppm- then do I really need to measure PAR?
- Its manual... so I leave it on day and night as unscrewing the top part is a chore... I read somewhere that I should turn CO2 on 1 hour before my lights come on, and if I leave it on 24/7 then it could kill my fish? (I may be a aquascaper- but my fish are very rare and mean a lot to me... I breed hybrid endlers- im trying to perfect my 'Blue Dragon' endlers- so all my fry are like my children at this point).
- Is it better to upgrade my system so I dont kill my fish by having in on at night?
Giving back creates a virtuous cycle that makes everyone more successful (as long as they cycle!)
Last edited by Darkblade48; 05-08-2019 at 11:56 PM.
Reason: Fixed quotation