Water Turns murky Green Very Fast!!? x( - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-11-2010, 09:30 PM Thread Starter
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Question Water Turns murky Green Very Fast!!? x(

2 days ago i did a 30% water change on my tank,(i started the tank like 2 wees ago)after i checked the parameters and found the it was time for one + some fish had ich. Before the water change the water had turned murky and had turned this color over the course of a week. after the water change the water turned extremely murky green over night. i left it like that for a day thinking it would go away. today i get home from school 2 fish are dead .

I noticed the day before that there were a few plants that had decomposing leaves at the bottom (allot). so i removed them and did anther 30% water change, but again the water starts to murk up green.

i go on a strict 8 hours of light. i have 37 gallon with 130 watts of light

Is this normal? how much tolerance for plant debre and decay should i have?

i hope this can be fixed quickly, the murky water is blocking allot of the light, and is starting to make stuff turn brown. my lights are 10,000K/ 6,700K so the normal overall look is sopost to have a whitish color but its more like something you see in a lake or a nasty canal
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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-11-2010, 09:35 PM
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The green water in of itself won't harm fish, but sounds like the plants are suffering from blocked light and decaying plant matter can cause ammonia spikes.

You're running a lot of light over this tank. My guess is that your CO2 and nutrients aren't balanced out (are you running CO2 on this tank?). Have you checked your ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels?

I'd start with a 3 day blackout to kill the algae, and keep up probably at least 50% daily water changes to try and clean up your water parameters for the fish.

After that, you'll need to find a way to balance out your light vs nutrients or you'll end up the same place you are now.





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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-11-2010, 09:46 PM
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Depending on the light source you may never be able to balance the tank with that much light even with CO2. Well maybe you could but IMO it will always be a struggle. I have 4 x's 54 watt on my 90g and if I had to run it all or nothing I'd be chasing my tail trying to keep up with the tank.

When I first started this tank I thought more was better so I put 4 x's 110w VHO on it. I didn't need plants because the water was always a pretty green all by itself. lol

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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-11-2010, 09:52 PM Thread Starter
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the day before the first water change i had low nitrates 10 ppm, some nitrites .5 - 1 ppm, no chlorine, KH 80 ppm, PH 6.8, CO2 from what i can calculate is somewhere in between 21.5 ppm - 13.5 ppm. ? i dont think i have to much nutrients

ammonia was not high 3 days ago although i don't remember the reading.

in regards to ammonia, iv bin finding it very hard to clean the fish "POOP" off the sand substrate; the gravel vac sucks up the sand with the poo and, some of the smaller plants i have in the foreground

this is probably one of the things thats causing this disorder.
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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-11-2010, 09:58 PM
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Anything above 0ppm ammonia or nitrite is too much. What's your nitrate reading?

You'll need a drop checker to get a more accurate CO2 level, those pH charts are a guesstimate at best. And you'll probably need 20-30ppm CO2 plus weekly ferts to keep up with the amount of light you're running over this tank.

I've never liked sand, IMO it's impossible to keep clean.

What is the bioload in this tank? How many of what fish?

[ps you need to edit the language in your previous post, it's not allowed on this forum]





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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-11-2010, 10:04 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by lauraleellbp View Post
The green water in of itself won't harm fish, but sounds like the plants are suffering from blocked light and decaying plant matter can cause ammonia spikes.

You're running a lot of light over this tank. My guess is that your CO2 and nutrients aren't balanced out (are you running CO2 on this tank?). Have you checked your ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels?

I'd start with a 3 day blackout to kill the algae, and keep up probably at least 50% daily water changes to try and clean up your water parameters for the fish.

After that, you'll need to find a way to balance out your light vs nutrients or you'll end up the same place you are now.
OK if to much light is a problem, i can allways turn off one of the 65 watt lights the fixture has 2 switches . BUT...... if i do that i will be left with 1.7 watts to the gallon and this is to low, according to this general rule every one talks about. so then what will happen to my high light plants like my HC ??
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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-11-2010, 10:12 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by lauraleellbp View Post
Anything above 0ppm ammonia or nitrite is too much. What's your nitrate reading?

I've never liked sand, IMO it's impossible to keep clean.

What is the bioload in this tank? How many of what fish?

[ps you need to edit the language in your previous post, it's not allowed on this forum]
-nitrite was 0.5 ~ 1.0

-bioload = 9 cardinal tetras, 1 x-ray tetra, 2 VERY small Angels, and 1 bristlnose pleco (small)

- language= editing is done,yea poop sound better anyways, roles of the tung better to
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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-11-2010, 10:54 PM
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Did you cycle this tank before adding the fish?

That nitrite reading is much too high, and indicates that there has been or perhaps continues to be an ammonia problem in this tank.

In a cycled tank, ammonia gets converted into nitrite, and nitrite gets converted into nitrate, and it should happen so quickly that you should never read any free ammonia or nitrite. Both ammonia and nitrites are extremely toxic to fish. Most fish can tolerate up to about 40ppm nitrates, whereas 0.25 ppm of ammonia or nitrite begins to be toxic.





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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-11-2010, 11:22 PM Thread Starter
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i cycle the tank with fish because i can not order or find a place thats sells ammonia locally. i could not find any at LFS so fish in cycle is my choice. and im pretty sure thats going on right now. yes i know its the hard way.

more over my game plan so far is to:
1: use only 65 watts of light
2:change water daily to get rid of murk
3:lower ammonia & nitrite level
4:give fish foot massage

How does that sound?

again will this lower amount of light be bad for my higher light plants; will the fact that i use PC bulbs mean im gettng more light then standard bulbs?
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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-11-2010, 11:27 PM
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ANY light is more than your plants are getting right now...

I suspect that if you can get the algae in check and your CO2 and ferts worked out, you should be able to grow most plants under 65 watts of CF, though.

You want to try and keep the ammonia and nitrites under 0.25 ppm if possible.

IDK about the fish, but I'd take a foot massage!





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post #11 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-11-2010, 11:33 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lauraleellbp View Post
ANY light is more than your plants are getting right now...

I suspect that if you can get the algae in check and your CO2 and ferts worked out, you should be able to grow most plants under 65 watts of CF, though.

You want to try and keep the ammonia and nitrites under 0.25 ppm if possible.

IDK about the fish, but I'd take a foot massage!
OK , but im feeling bad for sending so much and not use all my light.

what should i do to be able to use the FULL Power of the dark side i mean lights. dry ferts and more co2 i assume right?
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post #12 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-11-2010, 11:42 PM
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Yup. You'd probably do best to run pressurized CO2 on the tank if you want to make the most of your T5HOs.





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post #13 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-12-2010, 01:35 AM
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Cycling a tank does not require fish or ammonia, it requires time. However, you stated that you could not find ammonia locally. I think you may be thinking that it's a rare item, ammonia can be bought in nearly any major chain grocery store in the cleaning aisle.

A lot of people skip the tank cycling equation with plants and this sometimes gets them in trouble. Generally when people use fish to cycle they use relatively inexpensive fish like feeder goldfish because disasters can happen. I don't necessarily condone this.. just pointing it out.
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post #14 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-12-2010, 01:47 AM
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Your tank has not even cycled yet and you have a full if not over full bio-load. If you have another CYCLED tank to house some of your fish I would put them in there.

I really dont know what to say, there are so many issues right now...


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post #15 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-12-2010, 03:07 AM Thread Starter
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Your tank has not even cycled yet and you have a full if not over full bio-load. If you have another CYCLED tank to house some of your fish I would put them in there.

I really dont know what to say, there are so many issues right now...
full Bio load........???? PFFF!!!! LOL don't be silly, thats not the full load, full load will be 15 or so fish later.

the tank is about 2/3 fully planted and those fish are NEVER visible

in 2 mouths more fish will be added, and no unfortunately i dont have a holding tank
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