PPS-Pro Questions - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 01-17-2016, 11:18 PM Thread Starter
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PPS-Pro Questions

I just heard about this. And want to switch to it fully. I saw this website on it:

https://sites.google.com/site/aquati...r/home/pps-pro

Sounds easy enough , but....

1) How do I know what trace element mix to use? Aren't all manufacturers different?

2) Also, is this CSM + Boron Necessary? If it is do I add it to my micros?

3) Do the fertilizers settle? Mix before use?

If this system works out well, I plan on auto-dosing.
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 01-18-2016, 06:28 AM
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CSM+B IS your micros. And yes they are necessary. I much prefer EI dosing over PPS because it ensures there is enough of each nutrient. PPS estimates how much to dose but requires much more testing and adjusting, figuring out which nutrient is lacking etc. It's main benefit is you can get away with fewer water changes but there is nothing that plants and fish like better than large weekly water changes so why not go with the easiest dosing and give them the clean water they want?
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 01-18-2016, 07:21 AM
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I mix my PPS batches up at 800ml, I put 790ml of RO water with 10ml of metricide. I never have any mold or have stuff start growing in the bottles that way.
I give them a good shake before dosing even though there is nothing settling on the bottom.

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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 01-18-2016, 07:54 AM
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EI? PPS?

At the end of the day you end up tailoring your dosing based on how your tank runs, how the plants look, algae levels and what water testing is showing. I used EI as a starting point and scaled back until plants looked like they weren't growing as well, then upped a mild amount. The aim then is to try and keep that level ongoing. Things change though, for instance you do some uprooting and replanting and nutrient requirements may change as new plants adapt etc. There are a few variables with fert dosing and I don't agree with just dose EI or PPS and everything will be fine... it is very tank dependent.

All coming around to say, you learn by feel. Your tank is unique and you'll get the hang of it.

Don't be discouraged by me highlighting that there's a little complexity to fert dosing. PPS Pro is a good method, so is EI. Out of the the two I prefer EI for high light CO2 tanks and I do a version of PPS Pro in my low light low tech. I don't call it EI or PPS Pro, instead it's a mish-mash of methods that suit the unique conditions I find in my tanks. All of this came from watching plants/algae/water-testing over time in these setups and some trial and error.

Essentially all you need to know is that you must supply nutrients in non limiting amounts, or mild excess so that plant growth is never limited by nutrient levels. Once you get that right you can move on to light and CO2 as factors in plant health.

Test your nitrate level just before a scheduled water change. This will give you a ballpark idea of nitrate accumulation and help you figure out how much N to add as fertilizer, if any at all. Testing phosphate and iron is also very handy but these are usually extracurricular. For low tech I like nitrate at <15ppm. In a high light CO2 heavily planted setup you can push N as high as 30ppm.

Here are the nutrient ranges for EI:

NO3 range 10-30 ppm
K+ range 10-30 ppm
PO4 range 1.0-2.0 ppm
Fe 0.2-0.5ppm or higher

Those levels are for high light CO2, smaller amounts can be dosed for low light no CO2. Once you know the maximum nutrient concentrations that super powered high tech tanks can absorb, you can guesstimate where your tank fits in to that equation. If think it's about half as hungry as a high tech, dose half of the maximum range for that nutrient and watch the tank/plants closely for any changes. If the plants still look hungry add some more etc. If you find that your nitrates climb over the week (test for this) you may add no nitrate at all. Your eyeballs are the best judge of plant and tank health but testing gives you another insight into what's going on 'behind the scenes'.

Last edited by Darkblade48; 01-20-2016 at 02:35 AM. Reason: Please use the edit function for back to back posts
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 01-19-2016, 06:52 PM
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What is all this I am reading about how water changes dramatically change co2 levels which is not good. I believe water changes are essential but how do I avoid big co2 changes if I am using tap water with pressurized co2?

Thanks for your thoughts.
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 01-20-2016, 02:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by catchnrelease View Post
What is all this I am reading about how water changes dramatically change co2 levels which is not good. I believe water changes are essential but how do I avoid big co2 changes if I am using tap water with pressurized co2?

Thanks for your thoughts.
When you change the water, excessive aeration (due to surface agitation) will naturally drive off some CO2, but even with this in mind, I would not worry too much about CO2 levels.

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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 01-22-2016, 02:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darkblade48 View Post
When you change the water, excessive aeration (due to surface agitation) will naturally drive off some CO2, but even with this in mind, I would not worry too much about CO2 levels.
Yep it's no big deal especially in a CO2 injected tank where CO2 levels are controlled. The secret is, whether high tech or low tech you must do your WC well outside of the photoperiod to avoid the fluctuations that drive algal growth.
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