What is the difference between E.I. fertilization and PPS-PRO fertilization? - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #1 of 30 (permalink) Old 12-31-2015, 12:29 AM Thread Starter
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What is the difference between E.I. fertilization and PPS-PRO fertilization?

So for all my planted tanks I have decided to make the switch to the use of dry fertilizers rather than the liquid fertilizers sold by seachem. I went on GLA's website, but saw the two different packages. My question is what is the difference between E.I. fertilization and PPS-PRO fertilization, and is one better than the other?

Last edited by fishkeeper01; 12-31-2015 at 12:49 AM. Reason: ....
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post #2 of 30 (permalink) Old 12-31-2015, 12:51 AM
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well, best I can say is E.I. would work well for a heavily planted tank which is likely running cO2 (one that can benefit from the additional volume of ferts). PPS-Pro (which I use) seems to be better suited to lighter planted tanks with or without cO2.


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post #3 of 30 (permalink) Old 12-31-2015, 12:59 AM
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From what I understand, EI does ALOT more to make sure that plants will grow as fast as possible, hence over dosing. So with EI you need strict water change regimen to prevent fert build up.

PPS try to target the exact amount that plant need.

Which is "better" is subjective. Do you want fastest plant grow? Do you want less maintenance?
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post #4 of 30 (permalink) Old 12-31-2015, 01:09 AM Thread Starter
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I would have to say for now less maintenece. I also don't see myself getting into co2 anytime soon, so I'll go with pps-pro. It seemed like the easier one anyways. Aside from slower plant growth, is there any other disadvantage to pps-pro dosing, any special considerations I should take note of?
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post #5 of 30 (permalink) Old 12-31-2015, 01:16 AM
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Guess the only consideration I can offer is get the individual ferts that make up the PPS-Pro system as opposed to the pre-mixed ferts. This gives you the option to adjust the fert mixture as needed.
In my case, I have been increasing the phosphate and potassium levels.


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post #6 of 30 (permalink) Old 12-31-2015, 01:42 AM
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I have read too many posts where individuals have high nitrates.
Consider having the separate compounds to adjust dosing.
The all in 1 that makes one bottle cannot be adjusted.

https://sites.google.com/site/aquati...ts-and-testing
A site to bookmark, great info here.


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post #7 of 30 (permalink) Old 12-31-2015, 05:04 AM Thread Starter
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I was looking at GLA's site, I was thinking of buying the pps-pro package.
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post #8 of 30 (permalink) Old 12-31-2015, 07:37 AM
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Buy these separately:
KNO3
KH2PO4
K2SO4
Chelated iron
Trace minerals
GH booster only if needed.

Dose this way:
If the NO3 from fertilizer is getting too high, then back off on the KNO3 and use K2SO4 instead. The plants will still need the potassium.

Fish food supplies a fair amount of N, P, and most traces. If the NO3 is high from fish food, then reduce dosing N, P, and traces.
Fish food is low in K, Fe, Ca and Mg. If the NO3 is high from fish food you might only need to dose K and Fe from fertilizer, and make sure the water supplies enough Ca and Mg. If the GH is over 3 German degrees of hardness then the Ca and Mg is probably OK.
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post #9 of 30 (permalink) Old 12-31-2015, 04:26 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diana View Post
Buy these separately:
KNO3
KH2PO4
K2SO4
Chelated iron
Trace minerals
GH booster only if needed.

Dose this way:
If the NO3 from fertilizer is getting too high, then back off on the KNO3 and use K2SO4 instead. The plants will still need the potassium.

Fish food supplies a fair amount of N, P, and most traces. If the NO3 is high from fish food, then reduce dosing N, P, and traces.
Fish food is low in K, Fe, Ca and Mg. If the NO3 is high from fish food you might only need to dose K and Fe from fertilizer, and make sure the water supplies enough Ca and Mg. If the GH is over 3 German degrees of hardness then the Ca and Mg is probably OK.
This post seems helpful, but idk what all the different letters are lol. Do you think you could put it in laments terms? Also how much would I be dosing of each and with all the different test kits needed, how will I know if I have too much or too little?
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post #10 of 30 (permalink) Old 12-31-2015, 05:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fishkeeper01 View Post
This post seems helpful, but idk what all the different letters are lol. Do you think you could put it in laments terms? Also how much would I be dosing of each and with all the different test kits needed, how will I know if I have too much or too little?
I checked out GLA's PPS Pro Package you spoke of.
I recommend buying a 3rd bottle with this.
You can then have 1 macro bottle, 1 micro bottle, and 1 nitrate free mix.
I believe PRO doses are 1ml for every 10 gallons.
GLA refers everyone to the site I posted before for mixing weights per bottle.
https://sites.google.com/site/aquati...r/home/pps-pro
The nitrate free mix is in the PPS Classic section.
It can be used when tank nitrates run high instead of dosing the macro bottle.

Test Kits.
NO3, PO4 and GH & KH are a must IMO.

I would suggest a scale, don't trust teaspoon measuring very much.

If know one chimes in I can help with compound names later.


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post #11 of 30 (permalink) Old 12-31-2015, 11:23 PM Thread Starter
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Ok, I'm somewhat confused now. Do I buy the PPS-PRO package? As far as dosing is concerned do I still stick with the recommended 1 ml per 10 gallons?

I was assuming the mixtures on this site was correct? What measurements do I use for the nitrate free mix?
http://blog.greenleafaquariums.com/2...just-mix-dose/

Also in this link do I just make two of bottle #1, one with KNO3 and one without it, but both having the same amount of fertilizers as stated in the link I gave?
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post #12 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-01-2016, 12:16 AM
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Yes, buy the PPS-Pro package. PPS-Pro | Aquarium Fertilizer | Green Leaf Aquariums This is what I am using.
Yes, you would start out with the 1 ml per 10 gallons. FWIW, I am still roughly using 1 ml per 10 gallons but my mixture of ingredients is different than the original mix.
Yes, the mixture listed on that link is a good starting point.
As Dianna said "Dose this way: If the NO3 from fertilizer is getting too high, then back off on the KNO3 and use K2SO4 instead. The plants will still need the potassium." This will require a little more work on your part. The fert calculator that Zorfox has will be helpful with making the adjustment. But, that will be a bit more learning on your part so hold off on that until you better understand what you are looking for regarding NO3.
Sortof. What the calculator will do is show you how many MORE grams of K2SO4 to use and how many LESS grams of KNO3 to use. (this is why the individual fert bottles are nice)


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post #13 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-01-2016, 04:38 PM
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https://sites.google.com/site/aquati...me/pps-classic

This page shows the separate solutions.
NF contains more K2SO4.


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post #14 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-03-2016, 03:40 AM Thread Starter
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Sorry so what test kits do I need to buy (not the chemical names) and how will I know what is the appropriate levels?
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post #15 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-03-2016, 12:10 PM
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https://sites.google.com/site/aquati...ts-and-testing

https://sites.google.com/site/aquati...home/chemicals

Please check these links out.
There is a wealth of information on these sites.

As for appropriate levels.
https://sites.google.com/site/aquati...t-requirements


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