Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Cape Coral, Florida
Follow what Diana is saying. You will have a much better experience if you don't try to artificially decrease the PH once it starts high. Yes, there are all sorts of ways to do so, but most of them are going to have side effects and/or slowly fall back. While over-simplified, high ph is because there is too much "stuff" in the water (KH). To lower it, you need to remove something. Adding more doesn't remove it, it just shifts it around where it often settles back where it was. Again, over-simplification, but in concept right. RODI works because it removes everything and you get to mix to suit; almost anything else that comes in a bottle is a long term hassle at best, and may make things worse.
I think for most (not all) situations, people obsess far, far too much about PH, often doing more harm than good. This has historic basis in that PH tests are cheap and easy, and tests for TDS, KH and GH are (or were) harder and more expensive, so in the early aquarium days everything focused on PH because it's often related to changes in the others (in particular KH) and was easier to monitor.
More continuous fixes (like peat or leaves) are a somewhat different matter in that they tend to be a continuous feed of offset. Not knocking those at all, I'm talking about the fixes-in-a-bottle that the big companies like to sell.
Personally I think (most) fish get used to whatever you have, so long as you give them opportunity to do so over time, and don't make huge changes quickly. For many people chasing a perfect PH often results in such massive changes by accident (say you mix up water not fully aerated, it looks to be 7.0 and perfect, and after aerated it ends up at 5.5 because you dumped all that "acid buffer" in it that finally got hit with the CO2 from aeration -- making this up, but such things are pretty easy to do by accident).
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