Fert Advice - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-24-2015, 05:17 AM Thread Starter
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Fert Advice

I'm setting up a 125G planted aquarium and would like some advice on ferts and what schedule I should use. I've been doing this for about a year now. I used to just use aquavitro products in my tanks, but I'm open to suggestions if there is a better way. Anyway, here's the specs.

125G
MiracleGro organic substrate with clay added and capped with pool filter sand.
4x 96 watt T5HO lights
CO2 injection



I havnt made a full list of plants yet, but it will be very heavily planted. Here's some I know I will be using..

Jungle Val
Assorted crypts
Tiger lotus
Anubias
Rotala indica
Ludwigia cuba
Stauragyne repens
Crinum calamistratum


Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I've been doing this for about two years now and know a lot, but I always seem to end up with an algae issue that I'm pretty sure is caused by too many nutrients or lack there of. I want to get this one tuned as well as I can to avoid any algae issues from the start.
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-24-2015, 11:52 AM
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NilocG.com
Should have everything you need.
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-24-2015, 12:49 PM
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Dry ferts is the way to go. I got mine from nilocg, you can also check out GLA. I do EI dosing and highly recommend it for the simplicity.
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-24-2015, 01:02 PM
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Estimative Index is a recipe that you can start with.
As you get to know your tank you can alter the recipe to best suit the way you handle it.
If you are using CO2, then the original method is the one to use.
If you are not using CO2, then there is a lighter version that works.

https://www.plantedtank.net/forums/11...-regimes_.html

Here is another source: Planted Aquarium Fertilizer - Home
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-24-2015, 09:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hulka9 View Post
I'm setting up a 125G planted aquarium and would like some advice on ferts and what schedule I should use. I've been doing this for about a year now. I used to just use aquavitro products in my tanks, but I'm open to suggestions if there is a better way. Anyway, here's the specs.

125G
MiracleGro organic substrate with clay added and capped with pool filter sand.
4x 96 watt T5HO lights
CO2 injection



I havnt made a full list of plants yet, but it will be very heavily planted. Here's some I know I will be using..

Jungle Val
Assorted crypts
Tiger lotus
Anubias
Rotala indica
Ludwigia cuba
Stauragyne repens
Crinum calamistratum


Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I've been doing this for about two years now and know a lot, but I always seem to end up with an algae issue that I'm pretty sure is caused by too many nutrients or lack there of. I want to get this one tuned as well as I can to avoid any algae issues from the start.
Algae is normally caused by too much light or too little co2. It can also be caused by a lack of certain nutrients or to many DOCs(rotting fish food....). Adding inorganic compounds such as the normal dry ferts wont cause you algae issues.

With what appears to be decently high light and co2 I would suggest starting with the normal EI dosing method and then tweak it from there as you go.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

Thanks
NilocG
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-24-2015, 10:23 PM
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Originally Posted by nilocg View Post
Adding inorganic compounds such as the normal dry ferts wont cause you algae issues.
Agreed. I've over dosed a tank with no algae issues, still do


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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-24-2015, 10:53 PM
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EI is sort of an always overdose regiment. That's why you do 50% water changes.

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Just started Nano

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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-25-2015, 03:12 AM Thread Starter
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Perfect thats what I was looking for. Thank you.

Placing an order right now NilcocG

Bump: After looking at your page NilcocG, Im still unsure which dry fert package I should get. What would you reccomend with my setup? I will be using RO/DI water with seachem equilibrium and acid/alkaline buffers.
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-25-2015, 03:33 AM
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I use the underlined products in all the tanks.
I use GH booster only in tanks with hardwater fish.

KNO3 provides N and K, if you use it according to the EI recipe, or close to it.
If the NO3 in your tank is already up there, you might not want to add quite so much KNO3.

K2SO4 is a good way to dose the K that plants need, in case you will be dosing less KNO3.

KH2PO4 is a source of phosphorus. Yes, it has K, but it is dosed at such a low level that the K almost does not count.

CSM+B is trace minerals. Some people find it is a little low in iron, so also dose chelated iron.

GH booster contains Ca and Mg, and some contain K. (Seachem equilibrium and Barr's GH booster are very similar)

There should be no need to dose acid and alkaline buffers in an aquarium if the GH, KH, TDS are maintained in the right range for the fish. This is the goal with a blend of RO + tap, or pure RO with KH and GH minerals added.
However, read the labels and make sure you know the ingredients. One form of this type of product (ph altering salts) is so high in phosphorus you would not need to add any more.
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-25-2015, 10:12 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diana View Post
I use the underlined products in all the tanks.
I use GH booster only in tanks with hardwater fish.

KNO3 provides N and K, if you use it according to the EI recipe, or close to it.
If the NO3 in your tank is already up there, you might not want to add quite so much KNO3.

K2SO4 is a good way to dose the K that plants need, in case you will be dosing less KNO3.

KH2PO4 is a source of phosphorus. Yes, it has K, but it is dosed at such a low level that the K almost does not count.

CSM+B is trace minerals. Some people find it is a little low in iron, so also dose chelated iron.

GH booster contains Ca and Mg, and some contain K. (Seachem equilibrium and Barr's GH booster are very similar)

There should be no need to dose acid and alkaline buffers in an aquarium if the GH, KH, TDS are maintained in the right range for the fish. This is the goal with a blend of RO + tap, or pure RO with KH and GH minerals added.
However, read the labels and make sure you know the ingredients. One form of this type of product (ph altering salts) is so high in phosphorus you would not need to add any more.
So you are saying there is no need for the buffers? Just the Seachem equilibrium. Even though I'm using CO2?
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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-26-2015, 01:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diana View Post
There should be no need to dose acid and alkaline buffers in an aquarium if the GH, KH, TDS are maintained in the right range for the fish.
If you're using RO water, or your water source has very low KH, then you would need to add buffer. Otherwise probably not.

Feel free to edit.
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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-26-2015, 04:17 AM Thread Starter
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Okay that's what I thought. I'm using RO
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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-26-2015, 06:32 AM
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Add sodium bicarbonate or potassium bicarbonate (or a mixture of both) to reach the desired KH.

I've created a spreadsheet here to calculate required dosage.

Feel free to edit.
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