Ph over 214, Kh 35, nitrates 20..good or bad?? - The Planted Tank Forum
 
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-09-2009, 01:15 AM Thread Starter
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Question Ph over 214, Kh 35, nitrates 20..good or bad??

Hi I am trying to have a planted fish tank. My normal parameters are 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite, 20 nitrate, 7.6 ph. Today I tested Gh and Kh for the first time. My GH was 13 drops, which the chart shows as over 214.8 and my KH was 2 drops, which the chart shows as 35.8 ppm. What does all this mean for my fish and my plants? I just changed my substrate this week to aquariumplants.com and added light so now I have over 2 watts/gal. I use florish and iron biweekly. Algae is nonexistant, and my plants barely grow, and often die, and even the java fern's leaves turned black. PLEASE ADVISE!
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-09-2009, 01:46 AM
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Parameters sound decent to me. If you just upgraded your lighting and substrate, I say give those time, your results should be better.





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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-09-2009, 02:35 AM
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Your pH, at 7.6 sound rather high to me...and that suggests that your CO2 is rather low...and that suggests that you can't expect robust growth from your plants even with...or particularly because...you have a reasonable amount of light. So...I'd say that you ought to get some more CO2 into your tank to be more successful. Mindy, consider getting a pressurized CO2 setup for your planted tank. It requires some financial outlay but I can assure that, IMO, it makes an enormous difference in the reliability of success to the average planted tank enthusiast. And, don't be intimidated about how to operate it. You'd get plenty of good advice and help right here as to how to use it and it isn't very difficult once you start to get familiar with it. At very least, if you don't want to invest right now in a pressurized CO2 system, get some DIY CO2 going on the tank.

I would think that your fertilization using Flourish and adding an iron additive biweekly is a good regime, but I would recommend that you consider estimative index-dosing instead. It's really inexpensive and easy to do and also serves as a reliable way to assure that your plants will get enough of every fert that they need. You can start to look into that here....

http://www.ukaps.org/EI.htm

http://www.fishforums.net/index.php?showtopic=104737

If you'd be interested in trying it, just mention that.
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-09-2009, 03:04 AM
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My Ph is a steady 7.6 - I use no C02 or added ferts, and my plants grow like crazy. I have about 1.5 wpg light on the tank, and it's a tall tank at that. I rely on fish waste for ferts, and so far (2 years) so good. I'd wait a bit a now that you changed substrate and lighting and see how it works out before you go more high tech.

PS - java ferns will turn a bit blackish but they will also be putting out babies at the same time.
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-09-2009, 03:09 AM
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From what you're adding, here, wendyjo....I'd say that mindy's lighting should be cut back if she doesn't want to start applying CO2.
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-09-2009, 12:51 PM
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Yes, I agree with that.
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-09-2009, 01:35 PM
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13dGH is considered hard or moderately hard water. Without knowing more about water changes, what plants are dying, what kind of light is provided to the plants and for how long, it's hard to say (guess) whats wrong. Java fern should not be buried in the substrate, grows better in low light <2wpg but doesn't do anything quickly.

These are 'rule of thumb' guidelines I found on the web.
Low Light ( Under 2 wpg) 10-12 hours a day
Medium Light (2.0 Ė 3.0 wpg) 8-10 hours a day
High Light ( 3.0 Ė 4.0 wpg) 7-8 hours a day
Very High Light (4+ wpg) 6 (Expert level)
2.0 Wpg 12 hours
2.2 Wpg 11 hours
2.4 Wpg 10 hours
2.7 Wpg 9 hours
3.0 Wpg 8 hours
3.4 Wpg 7 hours
4.0 Wpg 6 hours


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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-09-2009, 01:47 PM
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This schedule would seem useful but only if the amount of CO2 (if any) and ferts (if any) are considered along with the light. So, for example, if you have "high light" as classified in that list, but no CO2 supplementation and no fert supplementation, then keeping the lights on at such intensity for 6 hours would not yield healthy, robust plant growth. That chart is handy, though, and if someone already has a certain level of lighting that would come into the "medium" or "high" catagories, and wants to grow a wide variety of plants, including maybe ones with redder coloring, then consideration should be put to CO2 and fert supplementation. If on the other hand, the lighting is there already, and CO2 supplementation and fert supplementation isn't possible or preferred for any reason, then cutting down on the lighting (photoperiod) and choosing "low light" plants is the best option.
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-09-2009, 02:31 PM
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The OP said that substrate and lighting were recently changed.

The other information posted was 'I use florish and iron biweekly. Algae is nonexistant, and my plants barely grow, and often die, and even the java fern's leaves turned black. PLEASE ADVISE!' This is a longer term observation and issue then new light and sub.

I provided information and qualified it for what it was.
Without knowing more about water changes, what plants are dying, what kind of light is provided to the plants and for how long, it's hard to say (guess) whats wrong.

These are 'rule of thumb' guidelines I found on the web.

Whats going on in the OP's tank I can not advise on based on the information given in the first post. Only suggest points to look at. Is the fern planted? (Java fern should not be buried in the substrate) With zero algae in a non injected tank are the lights active long enough for plant growth? What type bulbs are used? Nothing I posted here is more or less accurate or helpful to the OP then the rest of this string. My inquiry for more detail on the tank if provided may point them in the right direction when others respond with better information to go on.

Again I only suggested things to look at and provided some referenced guideline to look at.

OP, (mindy frohlich) Best of luck going forward in the hobby.
If all this (planted aquariums) is new to you Rex Grigg has a website that may help as well. He explains this 'stuff' in a what and why format.
http://www.rexgrigg.com/


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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-09-2009, 02:59 PM
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wkndracer...I didn't mean to give any impression at all that you had posted something incorrectly. I just wanted to clarify for anyone that didn't have a experience with planted tanks that there is a relationship between light/CO2/ferts that is very important and none of those three should be viewed standing alone. I appreciate your posted schedule and I copied it for my own files. I hope you don't take this in a way I didn't intend and sorry if you did.
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post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-09-2009, 03:32 PM
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To help this new member read this other string it will fill in a lot of blanks.
EI and CO2 or not whats desired just happy plants and fish.
"I really need some easy solutions because I donít want the high lights or expensive CO2 system."

https://www.plantedtank.net/forums/pl...tank-java.html


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