Need help with water specs - The Planted Tank Forum
 
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-13-2009, 09:23 PM Thread Starter
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Need help with water specs

I am new at this hobby and I am loving it. But I am unsure what I should be reading. Hopefully someone can look at my specs and let me know how I am doing


72 gallon bow only RO water filled
NH3 1.0 using the API drops and .5 when I use the test strip
NO2 0
NO3 40
GH 125.3
KH 17.9
PH 6.7
Temp 78.5

I am using aquariumplants.c0m & flourite (red) Mixed substrate 3 - 4" high
Heavily planted
3 WPG (GE 9325 CF) lighting 9 hrs a day with an additional 1.5 WPG (10K CF) Burst for 4 hours
20lb CO2 w/ Rex canister inline reactor
Milwaukee sp122 CO2 Controller.
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-13-2009, 09:33 PM
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With an ammonia reading your tank is still cycling, I hope you don't have fish in there, if you do, then you don't have enough plant mass to take up the ammonia.

Where'd the GH and KH come from if you filled the tank with RO?

You also have too much light, not a little too much, a lot too much. Six 55/65 watt bulbs on a 72g tank is overkill in a massive way. I had rapid and nearly out of control growth with running two 55/65w PCs for eight hours and another two on four hour burst.

In any case, you need a comprehensive fertilization program, that's pretty much the most important aspect of a higher light planted tank.

75 Gallon Planted Tank
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-13-2009, 09:39 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks imeridian,
I have about 30 CRS, 20 Card tetra and a few other small guys. I have the light raised up over 12" from the water surface. The tank looks great with the lighting, should I cut out the 10K burst? Is there anything I can do to help speed alone the cycling process? Or should I just wait? I have already lost a few Card Tetras.

I forgot to mention I use liquid Flourish 1 a week: Iron, Potassium, Comp Supplement, Nitrogen and phosphorus.
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-13-2009, 09:49 PM
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Cardinals are especially sensitive to poor water quality. I suggest performing a series of water changes to reduce the level of ammonia, some extra Seachem Prime can be used to detoxify ammonia in addition to the water changes.

Yes, I think you're heading for some pain if you continue using all those PC lamps... especially if they have decent reflectors. The height changes things a bit, but that's still a massive light level.

If you're following Seachem's Flourish dosing plan then you definitely need to lower the light, only with Estimative Index (EI) could you even come close to getting away with that light level, in my opinion. Things can spin out of control really fast in ultra-high-light tanks, there's basically no margin for error at all.

75 Gallon Planted Tank
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-13-2009, 09:54 PM Thread Starter
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I will pick up some Seachem Prime tomorrow. I change 10 gallons of water every week and refill with the RO unit. (which takes forever) lol. Thank you and my fishies thank you.
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-13-2009, 10:01 PM
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Is there a particular reason that you're using RO? ...It's rarely necessary in a planted tank and the process removes minerals that are useful to the plants. In especially hard water diluting with RO can be helpful, but typically most all fish and plants will adapt, better to not fight the tap whenever possible.

Just as a point of reference, in my 75g tank I change 50% of the water every week, so 10 gallons seems like a very small water change to me, especially in a high light tank. The light really changes how maintenance needs to be performed, in my experience.

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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-13-2009, 10:08 PM Thread Starter
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No reason in particular, I just thought that RO water would be a purer source of water. I am in NY and we have pretty good water. Should I refill with tap water instead of RO? Also how much water should I be replacing every week?
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-13-2009, 10:19 PM
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I'd use tap, it makes things so much easier. Like I wrote earlier, I change out 50% of the water every week, and dose Estimative Index levels of fertilizers. I wouldn't do a large change converting to tap though, as you don't want to shift the parameters too quickly, a few smaller changes will make the adjustment easier.

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