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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-15-2014, 03:25 AM Thread Starter
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test kits??

Ok so i am getting down to the final days before ordering my plants for my first high tech planted tank and first planted tank in general and i was just wondering if i should or need to get more test kits to insure optimal growth and sustainability in the aquarium.
SO far i have the following
-Api master test kit comes with
> Ph test solution + high range test solution
> Ammonia test solution (two bottles)
> Nitrate test solution (two bottles)
> Nitrite test solution (two bottles)
- Api Gh/KH test solution My Gh is 8 and kh is 3 so i think i will add baking soda to raise kh?
Alight well that is what i have so far for the test kits, now i will be dosing Ei fert method and i was looking at using this guys method http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/f...ing-guide.html But i also found another method https://www.plantedtank.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=757530 i am thinking this one will work better possibly? Idk its my first time so any info on which is better will help me choose. OK now back to the subject lol. So do u guys think i have enough test kits or should i also get a API phosphate test kit. I hope you guys can help me on this xD
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-15-2014, 03:53 AM
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1) Your test kit set should be adequate for most uses. Just beware the API nitrate test is notorious for being mis-calibrated.. ie: don't trust its numbers to be correct. There aren't any other test kits you need unless you are planing on keeping fish or inverts that are particularly sensitive. That said, such fish/inverts aren't really for beginners, so...

2) why do you think you need to raise KH? 3 should be fine for quite a lot of fish. Did you have something in mind that needs higher than 3?

3) Both of those EI dosing methods are identical, except one includes optional iron dosing and GH booster. The GH booster should not be needed in your tank (8 is high enough) unless you are going to have hard-water fish.

Quote:
40~60gal
50% H20 change-weekly
1/2 Tsp-KN03 3x a week
1/8 Tsp-KH2P04 3x a week
3/4 Tsp-GH booster once a week
10ml or 1/8Tsp-Trace 3x a week
Optional
2-4ml-Fe/Iron 3x a week
Quote:
40-60 Gallon Aquariums
+/- 1/2 tsp KN03 3x a week
+/- 1/8 tsp KH2P04 3x a week
+/- 1/8 (10ml) Trace Elements 3x a week
50% weekly water change
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-15-2014, 04:41 AM Thread Starter
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Hello thanks for the reply! Idk why but for some reason or another I thought it was diffedent lol lrobably bevause of the oder it was in lol :") I thought I would need to raise it because tje ph swi.gs pretty good when I let the water sit for around 2hours. It goes from 7.4 to 6.8

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fhe fish I will have Re neons otos corys and some blue dream or velvet shrimp

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Last edited by Darkblade48; 11-16-2014 at 05:15 AM. Reason: Please use the edit function for back to back posts to keep threads cleaner
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-15-2014, 01:29 PM
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Originally Posted by treyLcham View Post
Hello thanks for the reply! Idk why but for some reason or another I thought it was diffedent lol lrobably bevause of the oder it was in lol :") I thought I would need to raise it because tje ph swi.gs pretty good when I let the water sit for around 2hours. It goes from 7.4 to 6.8
Meh.. That's probably just dissolved gasses being shifted around, probably mostly CO2 absorption. I wouldn't worry too much about it, and raising the KH slightly won't really change that swing much.. I wouldn't raise KH very high, as you want to keep neons.

I would check the KH and GH after that sit, to make sure that hardness isn't precipitating out after sitting.

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Originally Posted by treyLcham View Post
fhe fish I will have Re neons otos corys and some blue dream or velvet shrimp
Some cautions here:

It's not always safe to keep neo shrimp with tetras... Sometimes it works out, sometimes not. they will definitely predate on shrimplets. It is unlikely but they may pick apart an adult shrimp. Be sure to have lots of hiding places and keep in mind that shrimp are fish food for most omivores and carnivores.

Pretty much the only 100% shrimp-safe fish are strict herbivores (ie: otos).

I'd also caution that shrimp don't always do well with EI methods.. the large 50% water changes can cause big enough TDS shifts to kill them.. again, sometimes this works out, sometimes not. Neo's are more hardy in this respect than more sensitive shrimp like crystal shrimp.
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-15-2014, 04:31 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by mattinmd View Post
Meh.. That's probably just dissolved gasses being shifted around, probably mostly CO2 absorption. I wouldn't worry too much about it, and raising the KH slightly won't really change that swing much.. I wouldn't raise KH very high, as you want to keep neons.

I would check the KH and GH after that sit, to make sure that hardness isn't precipitating out after sitting.



Some cautions here:

It's not always safe to keep neo shrimp with tetras... Sometimes it works out, sometimes not. they will definitely predate on shrimplets. It is unlikely but they may pick apart an adult shrimp. Be sure to have lots of hiding places and keep in mind that shrimp are fish food for most omivores and carnivores.

Pretty much the only 100% shrimp-safe fish are strict herbivores (ie: otos).

I'd also caution that shrimp don't always do well with EI methods.. the large 50% water changes can cause big enough TDS shifts to kill them.. again, sometimes this works out, sometimes not. Neo's are more hardy in this respect than more sensitive shrimp like crystal shrimp.
Thanks for the reply, Yea i was reading up on shrimp and found out about the ei dosing and 50%water changes, but i also found that about half if not a little more of people do fine with the neo's using these methods and that is really the main reason for not using another shrimp type. Im not sure whats going to happen but i figured it never hurts to try something if some people have had it work fine =). So i guess then i dont need to try and change my kh because the gh and kh do not swing at all after a day of water sitting.
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-15-2014, 08:06 PM
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I'm a self confessed tester.... so I have the phosphate kit and the others you mention. These kits are useful for giving an idea of levels really. Unless you prepare a series of standard solutions with each test to compare the tank water to, its difficult to compare to the colour chart with any accuracy.
I tested my nitrate kit last night - solutions made to 20 and 40 ppm NO3 were all but inseparable in their colour.

You might find an iron test kit more useful?
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-15-2014, 10:26 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by lee739 View Post
I'm a self confessed tester.... so I have the phosphate kit and the others you mention. These kits are useful for giving an idea of levels really. Unless you prepare a series of standard solutions with each test to compare the tank water to, its difficult to compare to the colour chart with any accuracy.
I tested my nitrate kit last night - solutions made to 20 and 40 ppm NO3 were all but inseparable in their colour.

You might find an iron test kit more useful?
So u suggest i get a phosphate kit and a iron test kit? I to am a self confessed tester lol idk why but i like that type of stuff. FOr the phosphate and iron kits do u use API =}
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-15-2014, 10:40 PM
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Originally Posted by lee739 View Post
I'm a self confessed tester.... so I have the phosphate kit and the others you mention. These kits are useful for giving an idea of levels really. Unless you prepare a series of standard solutions with each test to compare the tank water to, its difficult to compare to the colour chart with any accuracy.
I tested my nitrate kit last night - solutions made to 20 and 40 ppm NO3 were all but inseparable in their colour.

You might find an iron test kit more useful?
I also have a hard time reading the Nitrate test results...so...
Rule of thumb used by some...
Hardly any color to Orange it's good
Red is too much nitrates

The shortest distance between any two points is a straight line...in the opposite direction...
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-15-2014, 11:48 PM Thread Starter
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well since i have never tryed using test kits before i guess i will find out what you guys are talking about with the nitrate kit hard to read =)
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-15-2014, 11:48 PM
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That's what I've decided - nitrates in the orange.... good.

Bump:
Quote:
Originally Posted by treyLcham View Post
So u suggest i get a phosphate kit and a iron test kit? I to am a self confessed tester lol idk why but i like that type of stuff. FOr the phosphate and iron kits do u use API =}
I have the API phosphate, and a Sera Iron kit.
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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-15-2014, 11:54 PM Thread Starter
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cool! woul;d i have to order both of those or do u think that they are in a petco?
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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-16-2014, 01:29 AM
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I picked up mine in fairly standard pet outlets....
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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-16-2014, 03:04 AM
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I doubt Pet Co will have those. Worth checking, but they are not really standard tests.

I also have fun with test kits, and have quite a few.

I don't seem to get along with the Red Sea tests.
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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-16-2014, 11:53 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Diana View Post
I doubt Pet Co will have those. Worth checking, but they are not really standard tests.

I also have fun with test kits, and have quite a few.

I don't seem to get along with the Red Sea tests.
Yea the red sea test kit seems to have to much stuff involved
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